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Spacemanspiff · 11-01-2004, 06:59 PM

This is my new jig that I scored for nothing. It is all complete except for the instructions. I have a general idea on how it goes and there was a good article recently in Woodsmith.
http://www.woodworkersweb.com/module...vetail_jig.jpg

The questions I have are;
1/ Guide bushing or bit with a bearing? If a guide bushing does the bushing have to be the exact size of the gaps between the fingers or not?
2/ What is the maths to work out how far back to position the fence? I understand it is all relative with the router base but there must some form of formulation easy to hand.
3/ What size/angle dovetail bit?
4/ What depth of cut do I set my router at?

Anyway, thanks for any and all input.

Aaron

Dewy · 11-01-2004, 07:19 PM

I have a similar jig and it comes with a bush and the correct dovetail bit.
They are 1/2" dovetails. Mine uses a 7/16" (11mm) bush and the depth has to be set right.
My cutter depth has to be 23/32"
The stops at the font and top (right and left) have to be set at exactly 1/2" for the dovetail offset.
You route both front and side of drawers at the same time.
Inside of drawers up. drawer fron on top and side at the front.
Because you cant alter the spacings it is better to put the 1st half dovetail to be at the top of the drawer. To do this cut one drawer side on the left of the jig and the other at the right.
Practice with some waste plywood until you get the idea.
The moveable bar on top of the jig is set parallel with the front for the depth of cut for the half blind drawer front.
I wasted a fair bit of waste plywood before I was confident enough to try it on a proper drawe. I was very pleased with the results.
It's a good idea to cut the slot for the drawer bottom in the front and both sides before cutting the dovetails. This ensures you cut with this slot on the router side.
The jig is similar to the Trend TJ300 so download the manual from here http://www.trendmachinery.co.uk/dj300/
The settings may be slightly different but it will give you a good idea of how to use it.
There are a great many almost identical jigs on sale and if you know the name of the maker you may be able to get the cutter for that jig.
Mine is at 14° inclusive.

11-01-2004, 06:59 PM	#1
Spacemanspiff Registered User Sr. Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 95 View Spacemanspiff's Gallery	Report This Post! Help needed - dovetail jig This is my new jig that I scored for nothing. It is all complete except for the instructions. I have a general idea on how it goes and there was a good article recently in Woodsmith. http://www.woodworkersweb.com/module...vetail_jig.jpg The questions I have are; 1/ Guide bushing or bit with a bearing? If a guide bushing does the bushing have to be the exact size of the gaps between the fingers or not? 2/ What is the maths to work out how far back to position the fence? I understand it is all relative with the router base but there must some form of formulation easy to hand. 3/ What size/angle dovetail bit? 4/ What depth of cut do I set my router at? Anyway, thanks for any and all input. Aaron __________________ The speed of light travels faster than the speed of sound, that's why people appear intelligent until they open their mouth ...
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11-01-2004, 07:19 PM	#2
Dewy Registered User Forum Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 120 View Dewy's Gallery	Report This Post! I have a similar jig and it comes with a bush and the correct dovetail bit. They are 1/2" dovetails. Mine uses a 7/16" (11mm) bush and the depth has to be set right. My cutter depth has to be 23/32" The stops at the font and top (right and left) have to be set at exactly 1/2" for the dovetail offset. You route both front and side of drawers at the same time. Inside of drawers up. drawer fron on top and side at the front. Because you cant alter the spacings it is better to put the 1st half dovetail to be at the top of the drawer. To do this cut one drawer side on the left of the jig and the other at the right. Practice with some waste plywood until you get the idea. The moveable bar on top of the jig is set parallel with the front for the depth of cut for the half blind drawer front. I wasted a fair bit of waste plywood before I was confident enough to try it on a proper drawe. I was very pleased with the results. It's a good idea to cut the slot for the drawer bottom in the front and both sides before cutting the dovetails. This ensures you cut with this slot on the router side. The jig is similar to the Trend TJ300 so download the manual from here http://www.trendmachinery.co.uk/dj300/ The settings may be slightly different but it will give you a good idea of how to use it. There are a great many almost identical jigs on sale and if you know the name of the maker you may be able to get the cutter for that jig. Mine is at 14° inclusive. __________________ Dewy support team at Paltalk voice chat program Last edited by Dewy; 11-01-2004 at 07:22 PM.
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