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del schisler · 05-17-2007, 07:58 AM

I have had mine for a couple yrs now If you use a lot 2 routers and 2 tables work better than 1 table Saves bit changes I use the left one for the dove tails and the right one for the pins If you use the same thickness of wood all the time That also save time adjusting the bit height Use 2 pieces of wood lay one on the unit and slid it up to the bit And lay the other one on the board and over the bit Than adjust the bit so it just raise's the top board a little You are going to sand off the extra that stick's thro It sure works very well and simple to use The frount's are for the dovel tales and the sides are for the pins If you want the tail to show in the frount del

gregW · 05-17-2007, 08:19 AM

Congratulations and good luck with your new jig Bob! Which of the templates did you get with the jig?

Greg

**bobj3** · 05-17-2007, 10:19 AM

Hi Bob

I just took at the going price for the Gifkins dovetail jig and I'm just asking what you paid for yours ????? , I know what Corey paid for his and I was just wondering what it cost you ?, if you don't mind telling ...

http://www.gifkins.com.au/OS%20price%20list.pdf

It looked like they hooked the price to rocket, plus the freight cost ...or is this a error in printing.?

Bj

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob N

Here is the link to Gifkins that tells more about how it is used on the router table and all about it's purpose.

http://www.gifkins.com.au/

Bj's jig is great and does pretty much the same functions for those who are more talented than I in building one and can save you a few $.

**Bob** · 05-17-2007, 11:34 AM

BJ,

I purchaed mine thru Japan Woodworking in CA for $229 (US$) with free shipping. You may be looking at the price in AU$ if on the Gifkins site.

Still attached to a rocket, but a little smaller one

I do need to say that this jig is of wonderful quality and craftsmanship. It will make even a novice like myself look good

In my case, I feel the price was very worth what I received, just as was the case of my Oak-Park table and accessories.

**bobj3** · 05-17-2007, 03:40 PM

Thanks Bob

You will like it

I have one like it and it's great and it's quick and easy to use.
The real key is to use the bit(s) that came with the jig...
What's nice about this type of jig it has almost No learing curve how to use it and to get great dovetail joints projects with it.

Have fun

,,, and it's fun to make great dovetail joints ...

Here's the one I have ..and use all the time...▼
http://www.katiejig.com/
http://www.katiejig.com/new/index.html
I got mind from http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/ for about the same price as yours ....

Bj

Joe Lyddon · 05-17-2007, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobj3

Hi Bob

ALL the ones I use and have made do the same thing, work on the router table

They work so much better on the table than the hand held router..all the guess work is done for me.

Looking forward to see what you come up with.

You'er about to see why I put on the full bar clamps on the ones I use.

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...dovetails.html
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...ter-table.html

Bj

Bob,

I was looking at your pictures, taken on 11-17-06, and have questions:
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...ter-table.html

1. I noticed that you have not put screws into the 'permanent' holes... is that on purpose or just slipped your mind?

2. The clamps you use restrict the length of the DT's to be cut... Did you place the clamp bolts in a postion that satisfies the maximum length you will ever want to use?

In studying yours, could one just place a clamping board across the workpiece & then just use a clamp to clamp it to the jig?

**bobj3** · 05-17-2007, 04:15 PM

Hi Joe

1. on purpose,,,

one(two) screw will hold in place and it may be needed to be adjusted/moved from time to time. (1/4" /3/8"/1/2"/3/4" /1" etc. STOCK)

2. the bolts are home made T-Slots that can move to the right or to the left so I can use the max board ( about 14" on one of them and about 15" of the other.

3. yes, but it's a pain to use the sandard clamps not to talk about the clamp marks they do put in the stock but you can just use a board to clamp to but again the clamps are a pain to use because they like to drop once you remove the clamping pressure...I used a bit of sand paper on the clamping board so I don't need put the full clamping pressure on it.

Bj

Joe Lyddon · 05-17-2007, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobj3

Hi Joe

1. on purpose,,,

one(two) screw will hold in place and it may be needed to be adjusted/moved from time to time. (1/4" /3/8"/1/2"/3/4" /1" etc. STOCK)

Bj

I thought once the template was centered & adjusted properly with test cuts, it was good for all of the various stock thicknesses one might use... 1/4", 3/8", etc. with the main variable being Bit cutting depth...

Not true?!

Thank you for clarifying the clamping... & comments.

**Bob** · 05-17-2007, 06:03 PM

Bj,

I looked at the Katie jig a while back and it is a nice set up for sure for about the same cost. I really think I am going to like the concept of this type jig for making thru DTs. So much eaiser making them on the table rather than on the other type jigs although limited to thru DT's only. Mine was purchased with box making only in mind and the thru DT's are the only ones I am after at this time. You are right about using the correct bits to get the desired results. The Katie jig has an excellent reputation and following.

Joe,

I may be wrong, but as you raise the vertical bit height to allow for thicker stock, you open the vertical gap that will give you tear out when you go back to thinner stock. You want to keep that slot as tight as possible, thus several backer boards are needed for the task. I hope this makes sense, if not I'm sure Bj or someone might could expalin it better.

**bobj3** · 05-17-2007, 08:08 PM

Hi Joe

Well yes and no,,,, lets say you just made a box that was using 3/4" thick stock and you used the 3/4" dovetail bit and the 3/8" strait bit, then you want to make some small drawers that will be made of 1/4" thick stock and you want to use the 1/4" dovetail bit to do that , the backer board now has holes in from the last job you did, that's to say you now have no support for the bit when it comes out (a void) of the cut so to say you can adjust the jig a bit or put in a backup board that may move when the bit hits it, so I just adjust the jig so the bit has some stock to take the 1/4" dovetail bit when it comes out of the pass.
I have done it both ways backer board and just move the jig and moving the jig works best for me. (this is true for the MLCS jigs) but not the Katie jig it can only use the standard bits that are made for that jig setup,that are 8 deg.type.
The error comes from the fuzz/chips left by the bit or to say the 1st pocket, it lifts the backer board away from the backup board on the jig, I have tried double sided carpet tape and the same thing....

I know clear as mud ,you almost need to use one to get it..

Bj

05-17-2007, 07:58 AM	#11
del schisler Registered User Forum Geek Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 233 View del schisler's Gallery	Report This Post! I have had mine for a couple yrs now If you use a lot 2 routers and 2 tables work better than 1 table Saves bit changes I use the left one for the dove tails and the right one for the pins If you use the same thickness of wood all the time That also save time adjusting the bit height Use 2 pieces of wood lay one on the unit and slid it up to the bit And lay the other one on the board and over the bit Than adjust the bit so it just raise's the top board a little You are going to sand off the extra that stick's thro It sure works very well and simple to use The frount's are for the dovel tales and the sides are for the pins If you want the tail to show in the frount del __________________ del schisler
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05-17-2007, 08:19 AM	#12
gregW Registered User Forum Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: California, USA Posts: 147 View gregW's Gallery	Report This Post! Congratulations and good luck with your new jig Bob! Which of the templates did you get with the jig? Greg
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05-17-2007, 11:34 AM	#14
Bob Forum Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Georgia USA Posts: 2,542 View Bob's Gallery	Report This Post! BJ, I purchaed mine thru Japan Woodworking in CA for $229 (US$) with free shipping. You may be looking at the price in AU$ if on the Gifkins site. Still attached to a rocket, but a little smaller one I do need to say that this jig is of wonderful quality and craftsmanship. It will make even a novice like myself look good In my case, I feel the price was very worth what I received, just as was the case of my Oak-Park table and accessories. __________________ Cheers, Bob
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05-17-2007, 03:40 PM	#15
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,300 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Thanks Bob You will like it I have one like it and it's great and it's quick and easy to use. The real key is to use the bit(s) that came with the jig... What's nice about this type of jig it has almost No learing curve how to use it and to get great dovetail joints projects with it. Have fun ,,, and it's fun to make great dovetail joints ... Here's the one I have ..and use all the time...▼ http://www.katiejig.com/ http://www.katiejig.com/new/index.html I got mind from http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/ for about the same price as yours .... Bj __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J. Last edited by bobj3; 05-17-2007 at 03:52 PM.
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05-17-2007, 04:15 PM	#17
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,300 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi Joe 1. on purpose,,, one(two) screw will hold in place and it may be needed to be adjusted/moved from time to time. (1/4" /3/8"/1/2"/3/4" /1" etc. STOCK) 2. the bolts are home made T-Slots that can move to the right or to the left so I can use the max board ( about 14" on one of them and about 15" of the other. 3. yes, but it's a pain to use the sandard clamps not to talk about the clamp marks they do put in the stock but you can just use a board to clamp to but again the clamps are a pain to use because they like to drop once you remove the clamping pressure...I used a bit of sand paper on the clamping board so I don't need put the full clamping pressure on it. Bj __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J.
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05-17-2007, 06:03 PM	#19
Bob Forum Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Georgia USA Posts: 2,542 View Bob's Gallery	Report This Post! Bj, I looked at the Katie jig a while back and it is a nice set up for sure for about the same cost. I really think I am going to like the concept of this type jig for making thru DTs. So much eaiser making them on the table rather than on the other type jigs although limited to thru DT's only. Mine was purchased with box making only in mind and the thru DT's are the only ones I am after at this time. You are right about using the correct bits to get the desired results. The Katie jig has an excellent reputation and following. Joe, I may be wrong, but as you raise the vertical bit height to allow for thicker stock, you open the vertical gap that will give you tear out when you go back to thinner stock. You want to keep that slot as tight as possible, thus several backer boards are needed for the task. I hope this makes sense, if not I'm sure Bj or someone might could expalin it better. __________________ Cheers, Bob
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05-17-2007, 08:08 PM	#20
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,300 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi Joe Well yes and no,,,, lets say you just made a box that was using 3/4" thick stock and you used the 3/4" dovetail bit and the 3/8" strait bit, then you want to make some small drawers that will be made of 1/4" thick stock and you want to use the 1/4" dovetail bit to do that , the backer board now has holes in from the last job you did, that's to say you now have no support for the bit when it comes out (a void) of the cut so to say you can adjust the jig a bit or put in a backup board that may move when the bit hits it, so I just adjust the jig so the bit has some stock to take the 1/4" dovetail bit when it comes out of the pass. I have done it both ways backer board and just move the jig and moving the jig works best for me. (this is true for the MLCS jigs) but not the Katie jig it can only use the standard bits that are made for that jig setup,that are 8 deg.type. The error comes from the fuzz/chips left by the bit or to say the 1st pocket, it lifts the backer board away from the backup board on the jig, I have tried double sided carpet tape and the same thing.... I know clear as mud ,you almost need to use one to get it.. Bj __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J.
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