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Jigs and Fixtures This area will be directed towards the art of designing specific jigs and fixtures. Bob and Rick say, "if the specific operation is to make more than one piece the same size and shape then chances are you need a jig and/or fixtures."


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Old 08-23-2007, 10:24 PM   #1
S Bolton
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Default Incra jig and rabbeted half blind dovetails

Good evening:

I don't have my Incra set up yet, but I am wondering if it possible to do half blind rabbeted dovetails for drawers with the Incra.

Thanks

Steve Bolton
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incra-jig-rabbeted-half-blind-dovetails-rabbeted-half-blind-dovetails-1.jpg  incra-jig-rabbeted-half-blind-dovetails-rabbeted-half-blind-dovetails.jpg  
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Old 08-23-2007, 10:37 PM   #2
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Hi Steve

You should have got a DVD with your jig , it will show you how to do it..


Bj

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Quote:
Originally Posted by S Bolton
Good evening:

I don't have my Incra set up yet, but I am wondering if it possible to do half blind rabbeted dovetails for drawers with the Incra.

Thanks

Steve Bolton
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Old 08-23-2007, 10:40 PM   #3
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So it can be done. Hard? Difficult, if you know?

Thanks
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Old 08-23-2007, 10:41 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3
Hi Steve

You should have got a DVD with your jig , it will show you how to do it..


Bj

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Bj, it shows you how to to do half blind dovetails but I don't remember it showing how to do a Rabbeted Halfblind DT like is in Steves photo?

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Last edited by challagan; 08-23-2007 at 10:51 PM.
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Old 08-23-2007, 10:45 PM   #5
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I do have a DVD but it doesn't show rabbeted half blinds.

Thanks

Bolton
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Old 08-23-2007, 10:54 PM   #6
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I think it could be done. It definitely would be a little harder, the rabbet would have to be put on the drawer front prior to the doing the slots when you lay it flat and use the stop block. The height of the bit would be the critical step and I might be wrong but I think the rabbet must equal the thickness of the drawer side stock. So if your box sides are 1/2 your front would need to be 3/4 inch with a 1/2 rebate. I would think a test piece would need to be used Steve and once you have it right on, follow the steps in the DVD as you normally would.

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Last edited by challagan; 08-23-2007 at 11:01 PM.
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Old 08-23-2007, 11:04 PM   #7
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Corey you hit it right on the head

rabbet 1st, then dovetails


Bj

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Quote:
Originally Posted by challagan
I think it could be done. It definitely would be a little harder, the rabbet would have to be put on the drawer front prior to the doing the slots when you lay it flat and use the stop block. The height of the bit would be the critical step and I think the rabbet must equal the thickness of the drawer side stock. So if your box sides are 1/2 your front would need to be 3/4 inch with a 1/2 rebate. I would think a test piece would need to be used Steve and once you have it right on, follow the steps in the DVD as you normally would.

Corey
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http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

Bob J.

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Old 08-23-2007, 11:05 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3
Corey you hit it right on the head

rabbet 1st, then dovetails


Bj

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Hey bud, even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in awhile

Corey
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Old 08-24-2007, 02:37 AM   #9
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Gentlemen, I cheat by fitting separate fronts after the drawer is finished, just like mid to lower range furniture manufacturers.
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Old 08-24-2007, 08:27 AM   #10
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Harry, with the Gifkin Jig, that is the only way to do that particular joint with a rebate.

Corey
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