Originally Posted by JDługosz

I've seen the two-peg idea before, but using bearings is a nice improvement I've not seen. I guess to make it off-center you just position it in your holder with some shim stock. It also requires that you have a bit the correct diameter, but those details are usually arbitrary so that's not a big deal.

How do you get stops to work with the base diagonal like that?

Originally Posted by Mike

John, when we are setting up for a mortise cut we generally mark the wood and this can be easily seen with most methods of mortising. The Oak Park design uses a 7" square mounting plate with roller bearings on the corners for stability. Rockler recently introduced a sub base plate with screw in pins to accomplish the same job. It's far cheaper but lacks the stability of the 7" plate. There is no reason why you could not install pins in your routers sub base plate to do the same job. As far as fit is concerned, the pieces should fit together well but not need to be forced. Yes, you need to allow room for glue squeeze out. If the parts are too tight and different woods were used you might face wood splitting with temperature and humidity changes.
The "sideways" pivoting mount works well. As you pivot the mounting plate up the bit raises. Once you are at the desired height you lock it in place. I think this is what has you confused: the starting and ending points will vary depending on how thick the wood is and how high the mortise is from the table sliding tray. The higher you set your bit, the closer to the pivot pin you are.

A router bit will leave a half oval end in your mortise which usually is ample room for the glue squeeze out.

Originally Posted by bobj3

what I see is a jig that will work with one size of stock

Originally Posted by petersenj20

All I saw was the video, but the video said it is adjustable for wider stock by moving the back plate

The centering bearings and plate work well with long stock but what about when you are doing the end of a rail in a rail/ stile setup? Is it usable then or does it take a big setup to keep the router perched atop?

I like the idea of a loose tenon because it seems is much easier to get perfect. Except when cutting the rail end, where it "seems" a tenon would be easier to create.

I am currently working on a rail and stile cabinet door for glass with a profiled edge. My first attempt was TERRIBLE, but was to be expected. Do you recommend the tenon or loose tenon for this setup and how would I go about the mortise in the end of the rail?

Originally Posted by petersenj20

That glass pane bit set is more than all my current router tools combined.
You got to pay to play I know. While it may not be as strong as the glass panel bit (It is a broken joint of the type I am repairing so nothing is forever especially with 2 kids) it will work and at the same time hone my budding routing skills. . . .

Originally Posted by petersenj20

That glass pane bit set is more than all my current router tools combined.
You got to pay to play I know. While it may not be as strong as the glass panel bit (It is a broken joint of the type I am repairing so nothing is forever especially with 2 kids) it will work and at the same time hone my budding routing skills.

I found another way to do it with an open floating tenon joint that looks pretty simple with no intricate jigs or expensive bits. This is what I will try next time.

As always I appreciate yours and everyones input.

This brings up a question. I have looked at a lot of doors and all are standard.

When you have doors that open horizontally wouldn't it make sense to have the rails run the full width instead ending between the stiles? Why wouldn't this be better? (Been meaning to ask for a while.)

Originally Posted by petersenj20

. . .
When you have doors that open horizontally wouldn't it make sense to have the rails run the full width instead ending between the stiles? Why wouldn't this be better? (Been meaning to ask for a while.)