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| Jigs and Fixtures This area will be directed towards the art of designing specific jigs and fixtures. Bob and Rick say, "if the specific operation is to make more than one piece the same size and shape then chances are you need a jig and/or fixtures." |
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| | #21 | |
| Registered User Forum Geek | Quote:
And if I was in the business (as some of y'all are) of making doors on a daily or weekly basis --where time=money I would probably be more inclined to think in terms of what gets the job done the quickest and/or investing in bits that hold up better under heavy use. BUT - I might make two or three sets of doors a year. And when I start to make a set - and I compare $50+ for a set of bits -- versus making the frames as illustrated below and then spending $5-$10 of a few feet of cove&bead molding --- knowing that the end result will be fine with my customer either way ---- I get cheap and lazy. But doing it with the bit set is a skill I want to learn - just for the sake of learning it.
__________________ The one who says it can't be done -- Should avoid interrupting the person doing it. | |
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| | #22 |
| Registered User Sr. Member | I'm jumping in on this discussion a bit late, but there are plans and full procedures for an enhanced Mortising Jig in Bill Hylton's new edition of Woodworking with the Router. My experience M&T is limited, but I've made them on a shaper, and mostly using my WoodRat machine with a router. I've heard also that owners of the Leigh FMT are quite happy with that device. But you are looking at a $400 purchase You mention a preference for a shop made device. Since Hylton's book demonstrates the use of his a number of times (well documented with photos), you'd be on a solid footing to examine his design. Gary Curtis |
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| | #23 | |
| Registered User Dedicated Member | Quote:
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| | #24 | |
| Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King | Quote:
__________________ Harry Last edited by harrysin; 10-21-2007 at 04:54 AM. Reason: Corrected spelling | |
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| | #25 | ||
| Registered User Sr. Member | Quote:
Quote:
I was nearly sold on a lapjoint like Cowboy said. I have decided to go ahead and try the open floating tenon first. If that fails will try the lapjoint or bridle joint. I am also going to try to pare the profiled connection instead of mitering. | ||
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| | #26 | |
| Registered User Forum Geek | Quote:
Despite the fact that human nature makes us think our personal favorite is the 'best' way to do something - - and every magazine article wants us to think the latest thing out is the 'ultimate'. There is ALWAYS more than one 'right' way to do something - - ways that all give excellent results. You read - you listen - you experiment -- then do what works for you :-). Be sure and post some pictures when you get done.
__________________ The one who says it can't be done -- Should avoid interrupting the person doing it. Last edited by Drugstore Cowboy; 10-21-2007 at 12:15 PM. | |
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| | #27 |
| Registered User Forum Fanatic | Fellow woodworkers: Thsi question comes up quit often. There are two ways to make mortise and tendons...1. Use loosy tendons and the selve centering jig for mortises. or 2. build a horizotal table and follow the instructions at lumberjocks.com. I use the horizontal table. http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/EagleLa...king/blog/1292
__________________ The Geezer |
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