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| | #11 |
| Registered User Jr. Member | Hi Bob, try Woodline USA at the below web page, it is for a tongue and groove cutter, $32.00. It may help or maybe not. http://www.woodline.com/scripts/prod...?idproduct=558 Good luck with your clock |
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| | #12 |
| Registered User New Member | I use my table router to make tenons. 2 passes of infinite adjustment for size using either a 1/4 or 1/2 inch spiral or straight bit. I can even hold the piece upright and nip off the ends to make it a hidden tenon. For making the matching mortice I set the hight and distance using a fence. I place the mortice exactly by penciling a start and stop line accross the upside of the piece. I then focus my laser (cieling mounted) directly on the bit and it marks the top of the piece for start and stop. It is precise and exact. I also use the laser for making initials in pieces. It is a great device. |
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| | #13 |
| Registered User Member | I've found that any kind of tennon on a router table is very dependant on the thickness of the stock and how straight it is. This applies not only to small tennons such as in a face frame but even more to tennons in carcase constructions that may be as long as a shelf is wide. For this I use a Woodrat instead of the table. The tennons are dead accurate and repeatable. Haunches are very easy to add (or leave wood behind for <grin>) and though I usually stick to about 1 inch long, 2 inches are an easy possibility. In the long shelf-end tennons, slight curvature to the board does not affect producing a straight tennon and not affected by board thickness. ...Doug |
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| | #14 |
| Registered User Forum Fanatic | Here is a nice jig for making tenons with router. http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/jigs/tenon/
__________________ The Geezer |
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| | #15 |
| Registered User Jr. Member | I have not tried this, but here is a link to a tenoning jig for the router. It looks simple enough. http://www.dewalt.com/us/articles/article.asp?ID=244 ![]() |
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| | #16 | |
| Registered User Forum King | Quote:
Tom | |
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