Opa

As I noted in my introductory message I am a router novice. In my early enthusiasm I purchased one of those really cheap import jigs for making blind dovetails on drawers. The only manual that came with the unit is a two sheet parts list and some photos that explain nothing. I went to the library and got every router book I could locate on the shelves and even Patrick Spielman can't help me. I think I understand the principle of the jig but I need advice on positioning the wood to be routed, what measurements are critical, even where do I start. I have a good Freud router and the collar set for it so I am that far ahead. Where to from here? Opa

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kp91

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34102

If your jig looks like this one, the product manual download button should help you out.

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Doug
1 John 1:9

Opa

Thanks for your post. Mine looks very much like the HF unit. I will download when I get my new computer, hopefully tomorrow. Opa

waif69

Don't forget to post up how well it works for you, I have been thinking of getting the exact jig when I go to HF in early summer.

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If it weren't for guns, we'd be British!

mailee

I have got this jig myself and am not too impressed with it. Don't get me wrong it works but takes so long to set up. I now use one of the Template type of guides similar to the Stot's one and find it so easy to use and much quicker. I dont have so much waste now either. :-)

bobj3

Just my 2 cents

I have many dovetail jigs, the HF type works very well and is easy to setup once you remove the errors from the jig..with just some shop made jigs and wood blocks...

The real Advanced to the HF type is you can do the front and the sides all in one pass of the router bit....or you can do the back and the sides the same way, that's makes the drawer/box very strong unlike the normal way with the just a slide in back part and a nail or two...

If you set it up right you can do the front and the back in two clamp downs , that's a real time saver.

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PodCast videos
RWS on YouTube

http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

Bob J.

bill kay

Good Morning bobj3,

Could you outline the errors you noted with the HF jig?

It looks like they are on sale for 29 bucks. If I could get it to work I'd like to give it a try. Can't afford a better unit right now.

An additional question.

When I took a look at the HF instruction manual it appears the the minimum size stock that can be used is
front or back Width Range 5-1/2” To 12” and side Width Range 5-13/16” To 10-7/8”

The info is here.
http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals...4999/34102.PDF

Are these limitations true restrictions are am I simply mis-reading the instructions? The projects that I'll be working on will have sides that will range from 3 to 3 1/2 inches wide.


Regards,

tmiller

I have the Porter Cable jig and the drawer width limitations are a function of thesafety and clamping range of the jig. You might watch the PC videos and read the owners manual. I think it may help answer your questions.

http://www.deltaportercable.com/jigs/dovetail/

bobj3

Hi Bill

The errors in the HF ,,,,
You will see some wooden blocks that have been added to the jig,,,
1. the finger template likes to move from side to side.
2. the cam type hold down like to move the stock forward when it's clamp down.
3. the hold down cam type hold down need sand paper glued to them, so you don't need to over clamp the stock down in place and break the cams like I did the 1st. or 2nd time I used the jig.
4. the walnut side blocks let the hold downs stay true and hold the stock right in place.
5. any time you have jig parts that move in the jig ,it's a long shot they will be in the same the 2nd time you take the stock out and put some new blank parts in place..
6. it's a easy fix for this type of jig and once you do it will right every time.
7. use the same router every time to make the dovetail joints, the stop bar is a real key, once you have it set right make some set up blocks for the next time you want to use the jig...
8. just a note about the size, it can be 2' wide min. to 12" wide and as long as you want...for the long boards just add a support block on the back side of the jig to help support the stock and keep it flat on the jig.
You can also get a smaller finger templates so you can use 1/4" dovetail bit and in that case the stock can be 1" wide..min. and 5/16" to 3/8" thick stock.........

see the item below for a quick setup block for the depth on the finger template.

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Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
PodCast videos
RWS on YouTube

http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

Bob J.

bill kay

Hi bobj3,

Thanks for the guidance. I think I'll give one a try.

Regards