Band Saw Log Cutting Clamp Jig

Dejure · Nov 14, 2015

I needed to build a new log cutting sled for my band saw because I was cutting bigger logs than I had in the past, since the riser block a friend bought for my saw allowed it.

I was in a hurry and didn’t want to consume a lot of materials in a hasty project. On a whim, I grabbed a piece of scrap 3/4 ply (okay, it was that 23/32 crap they’re pushing on us now days) and cut it into a couple pieces about four inches wide. It was about a couple feet long. Just a little longer than the clamp I needed for the logs I was going to work.

I cut some notches in the one I was going to lay the clamp on, so the clamping portions could sit deep in the ply and the sliding part could still move, while the bar rested flat on the ply.

I drilled a couple holes in the clamp, to allow me to screw it to the plywood.

A second piece made the jig wide enough the clamp would not contact the fence and prohibit the jig from pressing flat against the fence. I cut notches to allow the back of the clamping portion of the clamp to set into the wood, and to let the sliding part move back and forth.

This has worked so well, I’m waiting for another, longer piece of scrap plywood so I can make a longer version for logs up three feet long.

Before using the jig, I, roughly, square the log ends, so the clamp can grab VERY tightly.

When using the jig, I try to find the “sweet spot” to position the log in for cutting. That is, the position it is least inclined to want to roll, as the blade moves through it.

After the first cut is made and the log can rest flat on the table, the jig is even easier to use for the second cut.

neville9999 · Nov 14, 2015

My kind of Jig, does the job and not more than it needs to be. N

Cherryville Chuck · Nov 14, 2015

Good jig Kelly, I might use that one. But you always put the cracks straight up or down or 90* to the blade on the first cut.

Dejure · Nov 14, 2015

Good to know, but why?

Cherryville Chuck · Nov 14, 2015

It reduces your sawing losses. The pieces that you got above the crack near the outer radius would have been too short to be usuable, plus the area affected by the crack. With the crack vertical you only lose a piece equal to the radius in length by approximately one inch thick, maybe slightly more because of the slight spiral in the grain.

coxhaus · Nov 14, 2015

Are you finding the logs want to roll or twist? That is my problem that I need to solve. I am playing with a 90 degree shelf template which is screwed into the log to stop rolling to get the first flat side.

Dejure · Nov 14, 2015

More Tid Bits About the Log Sawing Jig

The wood always wants to roll when there is no support on the bottom, at the point where the blade comes out of the wood. The sleds solve the problem of the log twisting. Some by use of a clamp, others just screw the wood to the sled.

The wood will want to twist with this and how much would depend on factors like the sharpness of your blade, the size of the log and how well the log rides on the table.

That's why I make sure the clamp is tight. That, the portion of the log riding on the table, and holding the jig down to the table has worked on several rather gnarly logs and I haven't had to work to hard at it. However, having run the band saw and learned, first hand, about the hazards of cutting round things through the blade, I am always aware of how easy it would be to spin the log, so I keep my hands away from the danger area, or what would be, if the log spun.

Keep in mind, if your blade starts running through the wood at an angle, it's time to stop and tweak the machine, be it by way of a blade change, positioning of the blade so the gullet runs at center on the upper tire, tension or other. A blade running through the wood at an angle is going to pull on the wood and that pull will increase with the angle.

Obviously, the larger the log, the harder you're going to work. If using this jig, you might want to run a few smaller logs to get the feel of running it.

You'll find that having the jig clamped to the log is, essentially, just giving the log a straight edge to work with. With it clamped, you could free hand (run without a fence). You'd just have to take care to avoid getting your latest favorite blade near the jig.

If free handing, the closer you get to the center of the log, the less inclination there will be for the log to roll, since there is less gap at the bottom.

NickyP · Nov 14, 2015

This is superb! Good job Kelly.

DesertRatTom · Nov 14, 2015

Nice. Question: I know you use some paraffin on the ends of rough cut boards. Would you use it on the ends of logs as well? I have a nice 6 foot long chunk of ash that needs to dry for a year or so, should it be waxed for storage to reduce cracking?

Cherryville Chuck · Nov 14, 2015

Lee Valley used to recommend that and sold 2 compounds for doing logs and lumber PEG 1400 and PEG 1000. PEG stands for poly ethylene glycol which is antifreeze but much thicker. One of my uncles says antifreeze also works. The glycol is supposed to replace the water in the cells and not evaporate so quickly. Parafin also keeps the moisture from drying out to quickly and is fairly cheap.

Marco · Nov 14, 2015

Thanks for the post, how to and pic's Kelly. That jig is worth building. BTW Glad to see your Band saw is tuned in!

Nickp · Nov 14, 2015

Nice jig...my original plans were to take a chunk off my hickory with the splitter and then use that face to ride on the table...I like your idea better...thanks for sharing...
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Cabbie41 · Nov 14, 2015

Kelly-
Brilliant plan/jig!
I'm grappling with the same thing in my shop, and I can see this jig in my future for sure.
Thanks for sharing.
Jim

MEBCWD · Nov 14, 2015

Nice, simple and gets the job done.

Cherryville Chuck · Nov 14, 2015

I break quite a few small logs down for lumber when I find something neat. I run them over my jointer first and flatten one side then usually do another face 90* to that. From there it can go to the bandsaw or the planer. If I have 3 sides flat then it can be sliced on the TS if it's 6" or less.More definitely goes to the BS.

Dejure · Nov 14, 2015

Chuck, I just ran a bunch of acacia the other day. I used the band saw to get all four sides, ran a bottom and both sides through the jointer, the final one through the planer. Then I went back to the saw, took off both sides, went back to the jointer, cleaned the sides again, went back to the saw. . . .

JJ.the.Dane · Nov 15, 2015

Simplicity is elegance. I like your jig and will probably copy the idea. Thanks for posting.

DesertRatTom · Nov 15, 2015

Thanks for the jig. Just realized what you did with the clamp. Really clever! I have a Delta 14 inch band saw and would really like to find the 6 inch extension kit to allow for resawing. But I can't find any source. I think Grizley makes an kit that will work on a Delta saw, but you have to drill the positioning pins. Anyone know where to get this kit?

TwoSkies57 · Nov 15, 2015

@ DesertRatTom

Tom, here are the current flea-bay listings: delta riser block | eBay

IIRC I saw these kits for substantially less a while back. just can't recall where.

ksidwy · Nov 15, 2015

Very handy Kelly, job done! congrats.
Sid.

Dejure · Nov 15, 2015

For anyone wanting to make this [relatively] simple jig, here are a few more pictures.

Obviously, the notches would be cut to accommodate the clamp you chose.

DesertRatTom · Jul 23, 2021

This is one of those hidden treasures from past posts. I saved the pictures and will likely make this. Not sure where I'll find logs, but I have a 3/4 resaw king blade for my Laguna saw, and I've wanted to do this for some time.

Band Saw Log Cutting Clamp Jig

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