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Thanks Harry

You crack me up :)

" before going into a standard lathe " LOL LOL hahahahaha

The Blue one can take on 42" long stock, the black one can take on a 38" long timber ,, a standard lathe can do the same almost and can take on a 42" timber but it's 1500,oo dollars unlike the two I have that only cost 250.oo bucks for both :) they can't turn big bows but I'm not into making bows any more ,plus they don't take up a big foot print on the shop floor...going on the shop wall when I'm done with them.. LOL :)

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17110&filter=wood lathe


Now if I recall my indexing math I will be set... 24 hole plate no big deal but I got lost on the 36 hole indexing plate...


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I really do like your motor conversion Bj., but is it powerful enough, if it is , it's a great way to round a log so that it is truly parallel before going into a standard lathe.
I see that you purchased two router lathes, one blue and one black.
 
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Now if I recall my indexing math I will be set... 24 hole plate no big deal but I got lost on the 36 hole indexing plate...


I'm don't understand what you mean Bj, a 24 hole indexing plate will give increments of 15* and a 36 hole one increments of 10*
 
Thanks Harry

I got that but lets say I want 4 on the 36 pin index plate, it would be 1-9-18-27 but what would it be for 7 or I can't get 7 on a 36 it must be 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,etc. just even numbers and would I start with 1 or 5 to get it to come out right...mind block thing for me ... :)




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Now if I recall my indexing math I will be set... 24 hole plate no big deal but I got lost on the 36 hole indexing plate...


I'm don't understand what you mean Bj, a 24 hole indexing plate will give increments of 15* and a 36 hole one increments of 10*
 
This post is for Greg and Ed

A big thank you Greg , I got the kit from Grizzly and took the live center out of it and used it on the new router lathe... work great.

I need to do just a bit more work on it, like paint it blue etc.and it will be set to run..

Thanks again..:)

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Very nice BJ.....and thank you...

Ummmm, aren't you suppost to make the knobs before you use them (last picture)....?

Ed......:)
 
Hi Ed

" knobs before you use them " that pair are from the last batch I made :)
came in handy for this project just the right size...




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Very nice BJ.....and thank you...

Ummmm, aren't you suppost to make the knobs before you use them (last picture)....?

Ed......:)
 
Hi Ed

You'er Welcome :)

The neat thing about this live center is the way they made it, I would have never tough of it with out seeing one...
They took a Tapered Roller Bearing and pressed a standard center into the center of the bearing and then press the bearing into the 1/2" thick steel bar..neat way to do it.. :)

"Tapered roller bearings can support large radial and large thrust loads.

http://www.howstuffworks.com/bearing3.htm

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Just some more KNOBS :)

Are you fed up with knobs like I am , this is the last ones for a bit..

I now have about 70 on hand that should hold me for a bit but I do like to make jigs and they all take knobs...(4ea. the norm )

This little bit of work will save me about 210.oo dollars in the cost of buying knobs.


Again I'm SORRY SB ( Steve ) for high jacking your thread ( Post) :) hope it's OK with you ...:)



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Hi BJ,

Never get tired of these knobs. You've one of the most innovative people I've never met.

Ed......:)
 
Hi Ed

Thanks :)

I hope you and others can used what I have posted...


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Hi BJ,

Never get tired of these knobs. You've one of the most innovative people I've never met.

Ed......:)
 
You know we can and will BJ,

Ed......:)
 
Hi Bj,
you're welcome..I'm glad it worked :)

it looks like you had to trim it down to fit between the rails...whats the purpose of offsetting the new plate from the tailstock?




This post is for Greg and Ed

A big thank you Greg , I got the kit from Grizzly and took the live center out of it and used it on the new router lathe... work great.

I need to do just a bit more work on it, like paint it blue etc.and it will be set to run..

Thanks again..:)

========
 
Hi gregW

The " offsetting of the new plate " it's needed for the adjustment part of the live center tail stock..the one that came with the machine was a full threaded bolt with a sharp point on the end and a black plastic knob.
see 1st set of snapshots,
I could have bolted the flat steel stock to the stock tail end bar and use the 3 Allen bolts to move it in and out with a light tap with a hammer but I'm almost sure the Allen bolts will put marks on the 3/4" guide rods that's the heart of the machine, one small nick and it would stop or hang up router base plate from moving up and down the rails...

Your'er right I did cut off both ends of the mouning plate to get it to fit just right...the only error I ran into was to lining it up on dead center of the mount once the bolts where free, I just made setup block to fix that error, once the setup block is in place the center point of the live center is dead on with the one in the head stock of the machine and the live center bar is just right...
Now it takes about 10 sec. to line it back up once a new turning is in place and it turns nice and free now on the live center :)


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Hi Bj,
you're welcome..I'm glad it worked :)

it looks like you had to trim it down to fit between the rails...whats the purpose of offsetting the new plate from the tailstock?
 

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Hi Bob,

got it..thanks :)

I was thinking that if you bolted a plate to the tailstock with two threaded holes for your tensioning rods the live center would keep its alignment to the headstock, but it sounds like your setup block is doing the same thing.


...the only error I ran into was to lining it up on dead center of the mount once the bolts where free, I just made setup block to fix that error, once the setup block is in place the center point of the live center is dead on with the one in the head stock of the machine and the live center bar is just right...
Now it takes about 10 sec. to line it back up once a new turning is in place and it turns nice and free now on the live center :)


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Hi gregW

I was thinking about the same lines but the threaded rods would need to be left and right hand threads on the same rods, so they could move the plate in and out much like a wooden clamp works...I have a set or two of the rods for the wood clamps but I'm a bit lazzy and I didn't want to drill and tap the holes in the tail stock plates...

But if I run into a error with the way it is now I guess I will need to do that but I do like to use the KISS way most of the time...


Hi Bob,

got it..thanks :)

I was thinking that if you bolted a plate to the tailstock with two threaded holes for your tensioning rods the live center would keep its alignment to the headstock, but it sounds like your setup block is doing the same thing.
 
Hi Bob,
you're right :eek:

the holes in the alignment plate would need to be a slip fit for the adjustment rods instead of threaded in order to keep it simple.



Hi gregW

I was thinking about the same lines but the threaded rods would need to be left and right hand threads on the same rods, so they could move the plate in and out much like a wooden clamp works...I have a set or two of the rods for the wood clamps but I'm a bit lazzy and I didn't want to drill and tap the holes in the tail stock plates...

But if I run into a error with the way it is now I guess I will need to do that but I do like to use the KISS way most of the time...
 
Just some more snapshots of the tail stock..:)

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Just some more snapshots of the tail stock..:)

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Very nice BJ....I have my car apart right now (my brother and I are replacing the engine) so won't get into the woodshop this week (and I'm back to work tomorrow).

When I do, I'm going to finish the speaker stands and get my router craft set up and give it a whirl.

Ed......:)
 
Steve, I don't wish to take any glory from you, your thread was a very interesting one however, before the end of page two it had been hi-jacked and turned into a totally different thread, this was also very interesting but I think the forum rules dictate that this should have been a separate thread.
 
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