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| This is a discussion on home made spanner within the Lobby forums, part of the Other category; Posted by: bobj3 On: 11-22-2008 08:23 PM Hi allthunbs The wrenches that work best are ... |
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11-24-2008, 01:07 AM
| #1 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor   |
Posted by: bobj3 On: 11-22-2008 08:23 PM Hi allthunbs The wrenches that work best are the thin black ones the norm, they are called service wrench, the ones that come with many tools to remove the nuts on cut off saws /many air tools etc. for just one or two of them,,,once you find one at the right price, say a buck you take it back to the shop and take it to the grinder and make it the right size...all for a buck..  they are short the norm say about 6" long for a 23mm size unlike the norm of 14" long..This shot, which has no photo-shoot, and non is required as it's so simple and needs no special tools, was made after I bought a CMT collet extension and couldn't buy a 22mm spanner.
__________________ Harry The best advice that I can give a newcomer to routing is, learn to use the router mounted, this can be as simple as a board held in a vice, with the router firmly attached and a simple fence held with clamps, and when he/she feels competant and confident in it's use and is familiar with all aspects of safety, THEN, and only then proceed to learn how to use the router hand held. This is MY opinion, and may or may not coincide with that of the forum management, but is based on a lifetime of woodworking. http://members.dodo.com.au/~sharry02/ Last edited by harrysin; 11-24-2008 at 05:23 AM. | ||
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11-24-2008, 02:18 AM
| #2 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor  Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: New Lebanon, Ohio "USA" First Name: Dave or "Doc" Posts: 8,762  |
Harry, what is a hame made spanner?  Oh, was that a typo? I know the a & o are right beside each other. Oh well, sure am glad we don't judge on spelling.  
__________________ Dave the "Doctor" In woodworking there is no scrap, only firewood. Please Please Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you and make for a friendlier forum.Thank you.  | ||
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11-24-2008, 05:26 AM
| #3 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor |
Dave, I'm not quite sure what you mean, could you please explain.
__________________ Harry The best advice that I can give a newcomer to routing is, learn to use the router mounted, this can be as simple as a board held in a vice, with the router firmly attached and a simple fence held with clamps, and when he/she feels competant and confident in it's use and is familiar with all aspects of safety, THEN, and only then proceed to learn how to use the router hand held. This is MY opinion, and may or may not coincide with that of the forum management, but is based on a lifetime of woodworking. http://members.dodo.com.au/~sharry02/ | ||
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11-24-2008, 05:34 AM
| #4 (permalink) | |||
| Retired Moderator   Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Mountain Top Pennsylvania First Name: Glenmore Posts: 2,011 |
Quote:
__________________ Glenmore Days without wood working are days not worth getting up for. | |||
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11-24-2008, 05:40 AM
| #5 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor |
Dave, I think I have solved the problem, your keyboard is different to the norm. All keyboards that I have seen have the letter "A" at left centre row and the "O" second right top row, not next to each other.
__________________ Harry The best advice that I can give a newcomer to routing is, learn to use the router mounted, this can be as simple as a board held in a vice, with the router firmly attached and a simple fence held with clamps, and when he/she feels competant and confident in it's use and is familiar with all aspects of safety, THEN, and only then proceed to learn how to use the router hand held. This is MY opinion, and may or may not coincide with that of the forum management, but is based on a lifetime of woodworking. http://members.dodo.com.au/~sharry02/ | ||
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11-24-2008, 08:07 AM
| #6 (permalink) | ||
| Retired Moderator |
Me thinks the good doctor has a beard hair in his eye
__________________ a/k/a "Grumpa" Last edited by Bob N; 11-24-2008 at 08:10 AM. | ||
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11-24-2008, 09:18 AM
| #7 (permalink) | |||
| Forum Contributor   |
HI Harry That would be great BUT it's a REAL tight fit, see picture below. The spanner would need to be HT steel then I'm not to sure it would hold up to long...I guess one could take out the lock device and weld it to a steel bar and then reheat treat it...but it looks like they are using part of the router frame to keep the spanner true. But it's real poor design, if the router is used upside down, the chips/saw dust do fall into the collet nut device but they have reworked that on the new models ======= Allthunbs See link below for just on more way to get the job done http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-jr6.htm ========= Quote:
__________________ MLCS Instruction Pages & Videos plus FREE MLCS Project Plans http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../instruct.html Part Finder find parts for your power tools http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ Need some help replacing the parts http://forums.ereplacementparts.com/ Many Router Tips from RWS http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html http://www.routerforums.com/email-ro...-members-only/ Router Tables ,Ready to use http://www.rt1000.com/ http://rt1000.com/_wsn/page2.html Bob J. Last edited by bobj3; 11-24-2008 at 07:06 PM. | |||
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11-24-2008, 07:13 PM
| #8 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor |
"HI Harry That would be great BUT it's a REAL tight fit, see picture below. The spanner would need to be HT steel then I'm not to sure it would hold up to long...I guess one could take out the lock device and weld it to a steel bar and then reheat treat it...but it looks like they are using part of the router frame to keep the spanner true." Regarding the tight fit, I didn't shape mine to LOOK like a spanner because for a collet extension there is all the room in the world. If it had been for a router I certainly would have narrowed the handle and made it look pretty. Why oh why would it need to be high tensile steel, I made mine from 5mm mild steel, whereas the flat spanners that come with tools are usually 3 to 4mm mild steel and if these become damaged, then believe me, FAR too much torque is being applied, like a 12" tube extension! Regarding dust into the collet, I've never had this problem or heard from anyone who has, however, dust into the router itself can be a problem but top brands like Makita supply a dust cover to fit when inverted in a table.
__________________ Harry The best advice that I can give a newcomer to routing is, learn to use the router mounted, this can be as simple as a board held in a vice, with the router firmly attached and a simple fence held with clamps, and when he/she feels competant and confident in it's use and is familiar with all aspects of safety, THEN, and only then proceed to learn how to use the router hand held. This is MY opinion, and may or may not coincide with that of the forum management, but is based on a lifetime of woodworking. http://members.dodo.com.au/~sharry02/ | ||
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11-29-2008, 08:56 PM
| #9 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User   |
Harry, what is a hame made spanner? Oh, was that a typo! No typo Dr Zook, a hame made spanner is made in Scotland.. | ||
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11-29-2008, 10:00 PM
| #10 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor |
I am a slow thinker, with a name like SINCLAIR, I could easily have used that excuse!
__________________ Harry The best advice that I can give a newcomer to routing is, learn to use the router mounted, this can be as simple as a board held in a vice, with the router firmly attached and a simple fence held with clamps, and when he/she feels competant and confident in it's use and is familiar with all aspects of safety, THEN, and only then proceed to learn how to use the router hand held. This is MY opinion, and may or may not coincide with that of the forum management, but is based on a lifetime of woodworking. http://members.dodo.com.au/~sharry02/ | ||
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hame made spanner = Aussie speak? 
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