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Old 12-02-2007, 09:19 AM   #21
harrysin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenmore
OOOOOOOOOOH Boy Harry now you went a did it. Be careful turning is addictive. I see you went with the Shellwax that is some good stuff for finishing good choice there. Now I hope to see some photos of your turnings and make sure when you show that shiney new orange lathe make darn sure it has some shavings and dust on it. You are going to have a spin with new tool I can see it. Pun intended
Glenmore, this time I took the advice of experts when it came to finishes. Perhaps you guys will answer an important question for me, the first thing I have to do is make a bench, only a few inches wider and deeper than the lathe and have it on wheels. The question finally is what is the best height, on my metal lathe my elbow is about level with the centre and it's comfortable, would this be OK for the wood lathe? I have covered the question of photos with Dave. I hope to speak to you in day or so.
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Old 12-02-2007, 09:29 AM   #22
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I realise at this early stage that I'm going to need at least two high quality turning tools and I know these have been discussed in the past, but as I wasn't into turning then, it didn't mean a lot so, gentlemen, could you please advise me what to buy, I know that here they can cost between $75.00 and $150.00 each.
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Old 12-02-2007, 10:04 AM   #23
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Harry, the way you describe your bench should be about perfect for the wood lathe as well. Lots of ways to make them. Mine is shown below with 2 drawers to hold supplies and turning tools. Eventually I can see me doing mine differently. I will loose the skirted part so I can stand closer to it and probably put it at a different hieght as well. An adjustable height would be perfect so I can turn pens while sitting down. My back gets to killing me!

On the pen kits. You have a 7mm mandrell but the kits are 8mm. But what are the bushings for the kits? I have 8mm kits that can be turned on a 7mm mandrell because the bushings are stepped.

Turning tools. Expensive stuff anywhere.. but know your prices are even higher. I see you got a pen turning set. What exactly do you want to turn Harry and the most. I would think you will be doing some spindle work other than pens, that set will work but longer handles are better. I would suggest at least a longer handle 3/8 to 1/2 spindle gouge. A roughing gouge would be nice as well. I know you want to turn a bowl or two so I expect you to get a bowl gouge as well. Most like a 1/2 to 5/8 for that but will let the bowlers in the group tell yah that. I think a big Scraper will be handy as well.. like a big 1 inch and 1/4 inch thick one.

Harry does Carbatech have the same stuff sold by PSI here. I mean I buy gouges very inexpensively from PSI. A whole bag of them for 40.00 or so and when I screw one up I can throw it away. Go to this link and in the search box type in Gouges and then look at the list. Very affordable nice tools. Carbtec may not have them but in the past they have sold a lot of the same stuff.
http://www.pennstateind.com

Corey
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Last edited by challagan; 12-02-2007 at 10:12 AM.
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Old 12-02-2007, 10:11 AM   #24
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Hi Harry

One pair will not do it and this is why.

I got this tip from Corey, take a hammer and flatten the hooks on the hinges.
and he was right on because once you push it in the slots it will take alot to get it back out without making junk out of the hinge, so to say the test hinge will be junk unless you glue it in the slot once you are ready to give it a real try out..and because it's so thin it can be damage so easy...

I did play with one and then took a center punch and fixed the hooks just b/4 I put it in for good..not as good as a new one but it did hook up in place..with just a dot of super glue.

I also put the slots in about 3/16" of a in. from the edge of the stock and that worked great,also about 3/4" deep so I could hide most the hinge barrel.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by harrysin
Bj, I got the one pair of hinges to experiment with, if successful, however many YOU buy, I'll buy twice as many!!

Regarding the 7mm mandrel, The bloody pen sets are 8mm, will have to swap them.
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Old 12-02-2007, 10:14 AM   #25
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Bob, was it necessary to chamfer still? 3/16 looks about perfect to me!

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Old 12-02-2007, 10:25 AM   #26
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Hi Corey

Well no , but I did put the dado slot a bit deeper and just a bit wider for the barrel and that did the trick just one less bit to setup and use ..



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Quote:
Originally Posted by challagan
Bob, was it necessary to chamfer still? 3/16 looks about perfect to me!

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Old 12-02-2007, 10:36 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3
Hi Harry

One pair will not do it and this is why.

I got this tip from Corey, take a hammer and flatten the hooks on the hinges.
and he was right on because once you push it in the slots it will take alot to get it back out without making junk out of the hinge, so to say the test hinge will be junk unless you glue it in the slot once you are ready to give it a real try out..and because it's so thin it can be damage so easy...

I did play with one and then took a center punch and fixed the hooks just b/4 I put it in for good..not as good as a new one but it did hook up in place..with just a dot of super glue.

I also put the slots in about 3/16" of a in. from the edge of the stock and that worked great,also about 3/4" deep so I could hide most the hinge barrel.

===========
Harry, see this post and this is what Bob is talking about on flattening out one set of hinges.

http://www.routerforums.com/59260-post40.html

Corey
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Old 12-02-2007, 01:41 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harrysin
I realise at this early stage that I'm going to need at least two high quality turning tools and I know these have been discussed in the past, but as I wasn't into turning then, it didn't mean a lot so, gentlemen, could you please advise me what to buy, I know that here they can cost between $75.00 and $150.00 each.
Harry,

For starting out I would find a good quality 3/8" spindle gouge and a 1/2" skew chisel. With those 2 tools alone you can do about anything except a bowl. Learn those 2 and those 2 alone and I promise you will be an expert in your own right.

Lathe height would be good at just a tad below the elbow to the center, say about an inch. There will be odd times that your tool rest will be slightly above center and we don't want you to have to stand on your toes while turning.

Lastly, below is a shot of my lathe bench and you are welcome to steal any ideas you see useful.
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harry-took-plunge-p6270018.jpg  harry-took-plunge-pc230009.jpg  harry-took-plunge-pc210013.jpg  harry-took-plunge-pc210011.jpg  
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Old 12-02-2007, 01:54 PM   #29
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Hi Bob

Ever time I see a snapshot of your shop I want to go out into my shop and just start over and paint all the walls white and wear a doctors smock just like you do I'm sure BUT almost,almost,almost but it would take forever to get it to look as sharp as yours.. D:

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Old 12-02-2007, 04:33 PM   #30
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Since the hinges are not cheap I had suggested to Harry that he make a metal tab the size and shape of the hinge for testing the depth of cut. Of course it would need to have some sort of extension to hold and remove it with. A sort of go/no go gauge if you will.
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