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post #4581 of 4660 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRatTom View Post
Itchy is an understatement. I wear a full coverage disposable painter's suit, and wear gloves, mask and goggles when doing this. The good news is that it goes pretty fast, but I feel a little like the over dressed character in Peanuts who can't bend his arms or knees in his winter coats.
Tom I refuse to use the pink stuff , I use Roxul instead , as it's priced similar and a better product imo .
I still will wear a mask , but it's not that itchy afterwards , and you don't have to take a cold shower afterwards




Dan I swear I knew soneone was going to say exactly that

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Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 01-10-2017 at 08:16 PM.
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post #4582 of 4660 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 01:28 AM
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@RainMan 2.0 Roxul. Not familiar with that. Tell me more about it. I'm up for a different approach, especially if it is less itchy.

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post #4583 of 4660 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 01:42 AM
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ROXUL® | Fire and Soundproofing Insulation

It does appear to be superior to fiberglass. It's gaining popularity up here quickly.
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post #4584 of 4660 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 03:08 AM
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The best thing about ROXUL is that it doesn't soak up water, unlike fibreglass.
The bad thing about it is that it needs to be cut accurately to fit. It doesn't mould to shape like fibreglass. Fitting it around cross bracing and wiring running through the joists is a p.i.t.a.
Incidentally it may not be as itchy but it most definitely is a health risk fibre-dust wise. You must wear a mask for installing.
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post #4585 of 4660 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 12:31 PM
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@DaninVan Inch for inch, which has the higher R value. Another alternative would be blown in, although it will be a challenge in that low crawl space.

One other thing, should I allow for some ventillation from the eaves? I'm talking about the plastic baffles you staple in under the roof at the eaves to allow air into the attic--a path for air around otherwise tightly fitted insulation. There is a vent to the outside up there, about 2 ft square, is that sufficient?

BTW, the metal, roll up door is insulated with a layer of reflective bubble type wrap, a 1.5 inch layer of foam (R4-5) and another layer of bubble. All of this is sealed in with aluminum duct tape so there isn't much thermal leaking there. These add up to about R12--you don't feel much of the outside temperature when you touch the door. The door seals are also good all round. As discussed elsewhere, I will use the output from the gas powered clothes dryer to heat the garage, which should be enough heat, pumped in fast, after the insulation and drywall are in.

I appreciate all the feedback. You all are the best.

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post #4586 of 4660 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 12:50 PM
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Tom; because ROXUL doesn't really compress much, it has to be manufactured fairly accurately to fit the stud cavities. The package rating gives the R-value so basically pretty much equal in thermal insulation. But as I said, it won't take up moisture so waaay better for preventing ex-filtration and condensation of moisture laden air (interior>exterior). Here in the PNW that's a huge plus for ROXUL!

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post #4587 of 4660 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 01:01 PM
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Up here ventilation from the eaves up and out near the peak is a must. A warm attic causes snow on the roof to melt where it runs down to the unheated overhang and freezes again which causes the ice dams you may have heard of. You may never have that problem but an unvented attic also causes the temperature to rise inside on hot days. Natural convection will push that hot air back out in a well vented attic. I don't know the formulas but Dan might for vent size. If you only have a gable at the one end of the attic it may still be too hot at the closed end in which case you should have a vented peak or add a whirlybird at the closed end.

I bought out my inlaws when they decided they needed to move into town and the FIL only had one vent in his attic and small. This summer I opened it up and as soon as I did the temperature dropped at that end,. I still need to do the far end so that I get cross ventilation. The temperature dropped some in the house when I opened up the one and I expect it will drop more when I get to the other one.

There are dryer vent heat exchangers that I seen for capturing that lost heat but you should not vent the dryer directly into the work space for two reasons. 1- too much humidity and 2- too much CO and CO2.

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post #4588 of 4660 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 01:20 PM
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"Dan might for vent size."
Heh...lots and bigger.
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post #4589 of 4660 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 03:13 PM
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I'm going to blow in insulation in the attic . But I'm going to use Roxul bats in the walls .
By the way it's practically fire proof also . They had a torch directly on it at HD and it didn't ignite or melt .
You can keep the pink stuff. That's technology from the 30's .
Roxul I believe is made from lava rock , but would have to double check

You can't blow Roxul in the attic unfortunately.

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post #4590 of 4660 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 04:28 PM
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Rick, Roxul is available for attics, too.

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