Hand Routing With An Edge Guide - Router Forums

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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-12-2016, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
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Hand Routing With An Edge Guide

I have a 36 inch long x 10 inch wide board and will route a shallow groove down the middle. I have an edge guide for the router. Is there a preferred placement for the edge guide i.e. should it be right in front of me and 'pushed' against the near edge of the board as I move left to right OR should it be on the far side of the board and 'pulled' against the far edge of the board as I move right to left? Both edges of the board are straight and flat.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-12-2016, 09:54 AM
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A lot to be said about this early routing technique; it's been around for >60 years.
Pushing is better than pulling with edge guide routing; it's easier
(you have your body wt. working for you) and you can see the whole megillah.
(Also a clear view with the guide on the far side but you're slightly un-balanced pulling.)
Pushing and pulling (with an edge guide on both sides of the work) renders complete control.

Inside cuts are always done at risk. Relax the pull or push and the cutter goes where it wants to.
For precise slot widths use a cutter <the width, open the edge guides (introduce some slop) so the cutter pathway equals the desired width. This frees up the cutter, so when you plow down the middle of the slot the cutter can bend every which way and not be expressed. Now when you pull the edge guides home (against the work) you're only taking a small fraction of the cutter diameter in wood.
That will yield smooth accurate & precise walls.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-12-2016, 10:29 AM
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If you scroll down to the last post on Mikes thread , you can see how he made a cheap jig to guide the router for a perfect dado cut that is pretty much fool proof
He also made an adjustable version I thought , but for the life of me I can't find it .
An edge guide is just a recipe for disaster IMO .

http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-t...al-duplex.html

Link to Mikes thread ^^^

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Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 11-12-2016 at 10:34 AM.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-12-2016, 10:46 AM
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They covered it. And if you have it, practice on some scrap wood.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-12-2016, 12:38 PM
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It's hard not to stray from the intended path. The guide stops you from moving inward but not outward. Pat's double guide is the only solution that will prevent that. Some of the OEM guides I've seen clamp onto the guide rods. Others are fixed onto the rods. You can make a crude but workable one of your own or modify an OEM by getting longer rods and fabricating an extra fence for it or buy that beauty that Pat makes.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-12-2016, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RainMan 2.0 View Post
If you scroll down to the last post on Mikes thread , you can see how he made a cheap jig to guide the router for a perfect dado cut that is pretty much fool proof
He also made an adjustable version I thought , but for the life of me I can't find it .
An edge guide is just a recipe for disaster IMO .

http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-t...al-duplex.html

Link to Mikes thread ^^^
That's great for crosscuts, Rick, but not practical for long lengths. For arguments sake, the two vertical channels to sink the pilaster strips into on bookcase gables.
Pilaster Strips - Lee Valley Tools
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-12-2016, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RainMan 2.0 View Post
If you scroll down to the last post on Mikes thread , you can see how he made a cheap jig to guide the router for a perfect dado cut that is pretty much fool proof
He also made an adjustable version I thought , but for the life of me I can't find it .
An edge guide is just a recipe for disaster IMO .

http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-t...al-duplex.html

Link to Mikes thread ^^^
The one I made is just like Mike's but fully adjustable (I think pics are in my uploads...if not, I'll post a pic). I use it to route the tread slots for closed stringers or any time I need a slot at an angle to an edge.

EDIT...found the thread and pics...here they are...

http://www.routerforums.com/portable...ig-stairs.html

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Last edited by Nickp; 11-12-2016 at 03:04 PM. Reason: EDIT...Found the link...
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-12-2016, 04:20 PM
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Why not use your router table.

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-12-2016, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boogalee View Post
Why not use your router table.
I would normally do this on the router table. But I'm doing this on MDF which I really don't like having to route indoors so my plan is to do this routing outdoors. I haven't figured out a good way to capture the dust when doing this type of cut on the router table.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-12-2016, 04:41 PM
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How wide and deep does this shallow groove need to be; does the bottom need to be flat??

Your profile shows that you have a table saw. Have a dado set? If you do have a dado set for your table saw, cut the groove with a dado cutter and feather boards to hold the work down on the table saw top and against the fence.

Or, if you have a rip blade that will cut a flat kerf bottom, use it to cut the groove and adjust the fence to the needed width. Again, use feather boards.

In my opinion and experience, there is far too much room for error/drift with a 36" long board and a hand held router, even with an edge guide. If you want to utilize a router, fabricate a guide with two runners to keep the router from wandering.

Last edited by Ray Newman; 11-12-2016 at 04:50 PM.
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