Feed Direction, Complicated?

**harrysin** · 02-07-2009, 10:38 PM

The easy way to remember the left from the right rule is to think of the British MG sports car, M is on the left (motors) G is on the right (generators).

When routing on the table, do NOT attempt to move the wood from left to right, it is likely to be thrown across the shop at high speed and push your fingers into the cutter, YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED..................

mftha · 02-07-2009, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by harrysin

The easy way to remember the left from the right rule is to think of the British MG sports car, M is on the left (motors) G is on the right (generators).

When routing on the table, do NOT attempt to move the wood from left to right, it is likely to be thrown across the shop at high speed and push your fingers into the cutter, YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED..................

And if you are widening a groove with a table mounted router, so the bit is not rotating within a fence, be sure the side of the groove you are widening is on the left or front. My left forefinger is still stiff about 16 months after one thoughtless instant the led to the local ER when the cut was on the right.

**harrysin** · 02-08-2009, 05:08 AM

A very important point Tom that can't be over stressed.

rwyoung · 02-08-2009, 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by harrysin

The easy way to remember the left from the right rule is to think of the British MG sports car, M is on the left (motors) G is on the right (generators).........

Ha! That's a good one! Unfortunately, having grown up in the colonies surrounded by wheat fields, nevery really saw any MGs.

Maybe I can figure something out using John Deere or IH...

Ralph Barker · 02-08-2009, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rwyoung

Ha! That's a good one! Unfortunately, having grown up in the colonies surrounded by wheat fields, nevery really saw any MGs.

Maybe I can figure something out using John Deere or IH...

Never rout such that your fingers will be sucked into the combine.

kolias · 02-08-2009, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mftha

And if you are widening a groove with a table mounted router, so the bit is not rotating within a fence, be sure the side of the groove you are widening is on the left or front. My left forefinger is still stiff about 16 months after one thoughtless instant the led to the local ER when the cut was on the right.

I have read this rule in a router book I have but again can’t understand the reason behind. My book (Woodworking with the Router) says to widen a groove you push the fence away and NOT the stock.

But to start a groove you have to run the stock thru the bit to create the first pass and In this case you trap the bit between the stock and the fence. Why this is okay?

**bobj3** · 02-08-2009, 02:17 PM

HI Guys

I know I'm going to catch hell for this but the CLIMB cut works very well when you are milling/routing veneer plywood,,and some other woods, it packs the chips in the slot to keep the veneer from ripping BUT you should not go more than a 1/4" deep on each pass...to be use by the advance user only...

A climb cut is just backwards from the way you should push the stock by the bit on the router table and it works very well with a plunge router also... but you must hold on to the stock at all times on the router table

=======

**harrysin** · 02-08-2009, 07:27 PM

Far from giving you hell Bj, I agree with you but it's only for the more advanced routologist and not for small pieces which can't be gripped securely. When routing around a corner from straight grain to cross grain, going backwards will prevent breakout, but I must stress again that the piece must be gripped firmly.
To get back on my soap box, plunge routing especially using female templates does not present these safety problems and this is one reason why most of my routing is done this way and only minor operations on the table.

Handidad · 02-16-2009, 05:30 PM

Finally the "backwards around the corner" was mentioned. Because I use a router only occassionaly, I usually forget this and have tear out.

Gerard_sr · 02-19-2009, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodnthings

Hey Guys, and especially beginners,

Give this a try, (I just safely did this myself, but do so at your own risk!)

Securely! clamp a 1"x3" wide board about 24" long to the edge of your bench parallel to the edge and 3" face side up. Get out your router with a bottom bearing and a roundover bit say 1/2" radius. With the router between you and the closest edge of the board,(near side) rout a 6" long pass from the right end of the board moving from right to left. Then from from the left end of the board rout a 6" pass from left to right. Notice the difference...it may be slight. In a straight, parallel grain board in my case, with an 18.5lb. PC 518 router there was very little difference. But that's a "monster router"!
Now put the router on the (far side) of the board, to simulate an "inside cut" and try routing the edge from left to right and then right to left.

It's good to know what to expect in either case, because a condition will come up when you may need to do one or all 4 methods.

Bill, (woodnthings) and I were discussing this off-line and he brought up the subject of "Bump-Cutting", he was looking for a video he saw somewhere on the subject. Well I found the video and I find it interesting! It seems to be done by someone that's an "Old Hat" to woodworking, like many of you guys in here, so I thought I would do two things here;
Let you guys know about it and attempt that new-fangled embed a video thingie.

Enjoy and learn!
Cordially,
Gerry

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