Adjusting groove & dado widths.

Eoin

Hi.

I'm horrified at the idea of using a carrier sled through your planer without at the very least ensuring that the pieces are firmly adhered to the sled with double sided carpet tape and then wedged at the sides and end. That is a very dead planer just waiting to happen. If your pieces are shorter than the distance between the in- and out-rollers, you WILL sooner or later have an accident, carrier sled or not. 14 inches is the minimum we will ever put a piece through a planer in our (professional) shop.

I really don't think you can be precise enough ajusting your slot with a router. A few thou too much and you've ruined it. Bob's sander block method is probably the best. Use a long block (8 to 10 inches long). By that method, you can aim for an arrow shaped slot (where it's slightly wider at the starting end by a thou or three) so that the shelf will slide in all the way when glued. Not so much that it rattles, though. You definitely shouldn't need to hammer it dry - with glue, you'll never get it in. Slow set glue helps here. There is a proper tool for this job - it's called a side rabbet (or rebate) plane, such as the Stanley 98/99 if you can find one or the Lie-Nielsen version of the same, currently available. Set it to take a micro-fine pass.
Eoin

Advertising



Remove these advertisements by registering for your free RouterForums.com account today!

rstermer

I tried working on the groove/dado with a file and sandpaper. That process works, but the joint produced isn't very good looking, as it is impossible to widen the groove/dado uniformly, or perhaps I should say impossible for me to do so uniformly, the groove/dado ends up wider on the ends than in the middle when I do it, no matter how careful I try to be. Sanding the shelf, as suggested by Bobj3, seems to work best, as the ro sander rapidly takes off enough so the parts will mate up. 10 seconds on each side was enough to make mine fit, but recognize other's mileage may vary depending on the sander used, the paper and technique. That said, if one was working with a very thin veneer, sanding the shelf could be a problem too, it doesn't take much to sand through the veneer. Thanks for your input.
rstermer

fasttruck860

It's worth while to make a dado jig. I build the woodsmith one linked to in an early post and it works great. I use my stock to adjust the width of the dado and that's it. After using it a few times you will learn that you have to fine tune one area or another, but once your past that you don't have to think too much. I just built a book shelf with it and nothing but smiles when it came to the fit.

istracpsboss

Do you need one of these? Dakota Micro Dado Maker - Metric (DK1016) - Buy online from Rutlands.co.uk

This is from a UK supplier but I've seen them in US catalogues too.

Cheers

Peter

istracpsboss

Infinity Tools claims an exclusive ! Obviously not! I've seen them on the China dealers' sites. Precision Router Dado Jig-Carbide Router Bits | Router Bit Sets | Shaper Cutters | Saw Blades | Planer Knives | Jointer Knives | Infinity Cutting Tools
I got mine from Rutlands when they were on special offer. Nicely made and came in a wooden box.

Cheers

Peter

bobj3

Hi Peter

Very nice jig or make your own

see below


=====

Attached Images

441.jpg (18.7 KB, 36 views)

__________________
MLCS Instruction Pages & Videos
plus FREE MLCS Project Plans
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../instruct.html

Part Finder
find parts for your power tools
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/
Need some help replacing the parts
http://forums.ereplacementparts.com/

Many Router Tips from RWS
http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html
http://www.routerforums.com/email-ro...-members-only/

Router Tables ,Ready to use
http://www.rt1000.com/
http://rt1000.com/_wsn/page2.html

Bob J.

jschaben

I built that jig and it worked superbly on the first try. I was inlaying 6" stainless steel rulers into my router table top and it worked perfectly. The scales were an odd width, 11/16 or something like that.

__________________
John Schaben

"I haven't failed, I have simply discovered several hundred ways that don't work"

istracpsboss

Hi Bob

Interesting! I was trying to figure out the adjustability and wondered if the holes were differentially offset from the baseline?

Cheers

Peter

bobj3

Hi Peter

Thanks, the holes are in place to let the chips out,it slides down the clamp bar and to adjust it,just unclamp it and move it over very quick and easy. it can be used for 1/4" slots to ~ , I use a business card the norm for that fine tweaking adjustment..lets; take 3/4" MDF stock, make the 1st slot and move it over by a business card,,then reclamp it, make one more pass ,then it just pops in without any sanding..

========

__________________
MLCS Instruction Pages & Videos
plus FREE MLCS Project Plans
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../instruct.html

Part Finder
find parts for your power tools
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/
Need some help replacing the parts
http://forums.ereplacementparts.com/

Many Router Tips from RWS
http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html
http://www.routerforums.com/email-ro...-members-only/

Router Tables ,Ready to use
http://www.rt1000.com/
http://rt1000.com/_wsn/page2.html

Bob J.

levon

hi BobJ

ive seen those clamps with the accessories advertised. do you remember where you got yours. at some time ive got to get a straight edge clamp guide. i thought maybe a 50 inch one. ?

p.s. i see holes to mount the router, but couldnt you use it with an 1 1/2 guide alone?

__________________
light travels faster than sound, this is why some people seem bright til you hear them speak.

Please Please Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you and make for a friendlier forum

levon