Hot melt glue to hold small parts for pattern routing?

Mike Wingate

I use hot melt when template routing using polycarbonate templates. Double sided tape for everything else.

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harrysin

Wouldn't it be a dull world if we all did things the same way! The important thing is that we feel comfortable in all the things we do in life.

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Harry

The best advice that I can give a newcomer to routing is, learn to use the router mounted, this can be as simple as a board held in a vice, with the router firmly attached and a simple fence held with clamps, and when he/she feels competant and confident in it's use and is familiar with all aspects of safety, THEN, and only then proceed to learn how to use the router hand held. This is MY opinion, and may or may not coincide with that of the forum management, but is based on a lifetime of woodworking.


http://members.dodo.com.au/~sharry02/

rstermer

You would think, maybe not...I would think that with the recent popularity of pin nailers, the pins for them would be readily available. Not so, I tried Lowes and Sears yesterday, no luck. I'll try Home Depot this morning. If I don't have any luck,I'll use brads from my brad nailer and clip off the heads. This part will not be receiving a high level of finish, so a small hole won't be a problem. I was surprised the pins were not generally available.
Regards,
rstermer

derek willis

Harry,
That's a world wide quote, I agreee, we all do it our own way, in fact I've been using hot melt today for exactly that same reason.

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A friend is a good egg even if they are slightly cracked!

Derek

BlondeWood

I found pin nails at Harbor Frieght. Also, at my Lowes when I couldn't find nails I asked and they were in a back area called "contractors section" and sometimes I find stuff like that in the Arrow staple section.
Vicki

bobj3

Hi Guys

I love the pin nailer,,,I don't know how anyone could be without one in the wood shop,,I started doing alot on template work as of late but they work so well for many other jobs as well

I'm always amazed how the little pin nailer can put in a 1" long pin in hardwood molding and not spit the stock..like so many of the brad nailers can do easy..

I still use tape when the nailer will not do the job and I have also use hot glue that stuff sucks,,,it "leaves" a spot on the wood and seals the wood so the stain/finish can't go on.

Not to say anything waiting for the glue to get hot...

Once you have pin nailer it will be the one you pickup to use alll the time and the nails are cheap unlike the tape.. or glue sticks...

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harrysin

"so a small hole won't be a problem."

There shouldn't be any pin holes if the template is on top and a bottom bearing cutter is used.

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Harry

The best advice that I can give a newcomer to routing is, learn to use the router mounted, this can be as simple as a board held in a vice, with the router firmly attached and a simple fence held with clamps, and when he/she feels competant and confident in it's use and is familiar with all aspects of safety, THEN, and only then proceed to learn how to use the router hand held. This is MY opinion, and may or may not coincide with that of the forum management, but is based on a lifetime of woodworking.


http://members.dodo.com.au/~sharry02/

garycurtis

I use hot glue gun all the time with my router. To glue down little fence and patterns for hand routing. The good thing is, you can just pry the stuff up and discard when done.

An English guy gave a router class and showed this method. Works fast and is easy. It helps to have a relatively slick and clean work surface. My wife just retired from the movie studios as costume designer. On Oscar night, how do you think they make emergency fittings to those $8000 dresses? Cut, snip, glue gun.

Gary Curtis
Northern California

rstermer

Harry- Maybe I'm not understanding how it is done. Here is my thought as to how I would set up to make the cut. I would first stick some pins (3 or 4) into the bottom side of my pattern, since it is made of red oak and is very hard. Then I'd press my pattern down onto a board made of a softer wood, such as pine, which would be clamped to the bench. Next, I'd stick some more pins into the top side of my pattern and would then press the blank to be profile routed onto those pins. At that point I'd have a sandwich consisting of my soft base board, on top of that would be the pattern and on top of that would be the blank for the piece to be duplicated, all of it held together by the pins. I'd probably also set up some support pieces around the sandwich so the router wouldn't tip. Then I'd route away using a cutter with a bottom bearing.

Alternatively, I could put the piece to be routed in the middle, put the pattern on the top and use a cutter with a top bearing to make the cut (which as I think of it would probably be my preference as I would be able to see the pattern as I worked).

Have I got it right, or am I missing something important? Thanks for your thoughts.
rstermer

harrysin

May I offer my sincere apologies and ask you to ignore that post of mine. Had I not posted it late at night, I would have pleaded that I was DAY dreaming. Possibly what I was meaning was that if the Oak template is on the top of the new material and pinned from below, then there would be no pin holes in the face of the template.
In spite of all this I personally use pins believing that there is no chance of movement between the pieces, bearing in mind that here in Western Australia the temperatures reach into the 40+*C

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Harry

The best advice that I can give a newcomer to routing is, learn to use the router mounted, this can be as simple as a board held in a vice, with the router firmly attached and a simple fence held with clamps, and when he/she feels competant and confident in it's use and is familiar with all aspects of safety, THEN, and only then proceed to learn how to use the router hand held. This is MY opinion, and may or may not coincide with that of the forum management, but is based on a lifetime of woodworking.


http://members.dodo.com.au/~sharry02/