apurcell22

Not a problem Ed, yeahit is missing a little too. But I guess its not too bad for a hundred year old machine. One of these days I will get around to restoring it. For now I will continue to fix up the house I bought this summer. This plumbing problem is now fixed, but it seems everytime I turn around I find some half @ss repair the previous owner made. Can be quite frustrating. Oh well, the joy's of home ownership!
Good luck,
Al

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hcbph

Assuming you're going to reveneer the lid. I've repaired and refinished several of these units (like in the picture). Have someone open the machine, prop the machine so it won't fall. 2 hinges and usually a cable or chain that raises the machine. Unscrew them all and remove the lid. Remove the old veneer from the lid. If necessary, take some rags and saturate them with vinegar and let it soak in. It will loosen the old veneer given enough time. You may have to use a scraper or chisel to work under the veneer as need be, do it while it's wet and pliable. If there are any divots or gouges from getting the old veneer, automotive bondo works well on filling that. Let it dry well to get rid of any leftover vinegar. then get it all off and sand it down smooth. I use single or double ply veneer, no paper backed stuff or preglued. I use a good type of contact cement (use good ventilation as that is the kind that works for me) and a press to put the new stuff down. I work with a refinishing shop so I let them do the finish work.

Trim it close with a router and an edge guide, then finish it off with sandpaper rolled around a dowel.

Hope that helps.

Paul

reible

Hi,

While I'm not sure what the machine I will be dealing with looks like it will be something like the one pictured. From what I've heard the top veneer will need to replaced but the rest is in OK shape. I was planning on removing the top to work on it but without my "shop" I wanted to keep the process as simple as I can.

So vinegar works on the glue.... that is good to know.... are we talking hours or days here for time?

Any reason you didn't use the paper backed stuff? I was looking at the pressure sensitive on that Rockler sells........

What does the wood underneath look like? Are we talking a solid piece or ???

And the grain of the veneer is it a plain or a quarter slice??

I was hoping to finish the edge with the router and maybe a 7 deg angle (just enough to keep the wood below from getting touched.

Maybe I'm just trying to do this the hard way.... I guess I could bring the top back with me and go it right in the shop but sometimes I like to see just what I can do without all the tools, you know sort of ruffing it.

Thanks for you input!

Ed

jerrymayfield

If this machine is as old as you think the glue is probably hide glue,if so its reversable. The Singer's ive seen were not rotary cut veneer most were riff cut (quarter sawn would be ideal). You will need some cawls, clamps and weights to apply pressure to the veneer.

Good Luck

Jerry

reible

Hi Jerry,

So I'm looking for quarter sawn look and would you guess red or white oak?? I know it is a very dark stain over the top and would it have been a varnish back in those days??

Ed

jerrymayfield

You want anything but rotary cut veneer. It is most likely red oak, but if you are trying to match another color it won't make any difference white or red. Consider some of the less refined shellacs such ad seedlac, garnet et al.

Regards

Jerry

reible

Thanks!

A few more pieces of the plan have come together!

Ed