Planing with a Router

Joe Lyddon · 11-28-2006, 10:20 PM

Angus,

Here is the original post that started this thread...
I've lost it - Having no planer, I'm tired of using the belt sander for thickness planing, not to mention the swirling dust - I know I saw a jig or setup for floating a router over material for thickness planing but now I can't put my finger on it - anybody got a link or plans for that?

It is possible to plane with a router... It is also possible to use a drum sander (instead of a belt sander that he mentioned).

I personally don't think there is anything here to argue about... so why are you starting to argue about nothing?

We don't argue here on this site... we are a friendly bunch and we are proud of it.

Gnite...

angus · 11-28-2006, 10:53 PM

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I posted this the other day in the Lobby, but I think it may have got lost somewhere in the "non Router" info.

Someone posted an article about using a router to make a board flat. Does anyone remember where it was posted or better yet is the one who posted it reading this. All I can remember is that it's a jig that allows you to mount the router and move it side to side to remove the crown or bow in a board.

I sure hope someone can help me find it, or can give me some info.

Thanks for your help.
Angus

Sorry Joe This was posted before the drum sander it evolved to the other thread a day or to later - also read what i said I'm not aruging I only made a statement - the agruing is on another thread by other parties - It's a shame that one cannot voice their the opinon or thoughts without getting the dander up of others -so you sir can have a good night also

**Mike** · 11-29-2006, 04:52 AM

Ok, Gilbear started this thread looking for a way to plane boards with a router. I saw a couple good posts on jigs for that purpose. Sanding devices were suggested as an alternative, and that is all good. This post drifted into a different topic and that makes for confusion. The sanding drums and belts, the jigs and such really belong in a different catagory. To avoid confusion lets all make an effort to be sure information is posted where it should be.
Angus, you are absolutly correct. There is a lot of confusion when old posts are pulled up and revived months or even years after they were posted. Perhaps a time limit should be applied to the life span of a post, at which point it should be locked. This is a subject for a different area and I will open a thread for discussion there.

Joe Lyddon · 11-29-2006, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gilbear

I've lost it - Having no planer, I'm tired of using the belt sander for thickness planing, not to mention the swirling dust - I know I saw a jig or setup for floating a router over material for thickness planing but now I can't put my finger on it - anybody got a link or plans for that?

A few weeks ago, I had to flatten a board... I don't have a thickness planer, etc....

I thought of the Router method... I quickly made a jig to do it...
It was super simple and it worked great!!

Here is what I did:
=============

First of all, my board was about 3/4" thick and had a slight curve in it... it was about 24" long and 10" wide... looking at the board from the end, it had a slight bow over the 10" width.

I took four pieces of 1 x 2 (3/4") Ash. (anything that would not bend from the router weight)

2 of them (about 32" long) were left at that length; the length of the other 2 boards were trimmed as follows...

Lay the 2 long boards on the bench vertically (North/South) side by side.

Take the router you intend to use and place it on those 2 boards so it's supported by them... Have a 1/2" straight bit in it...

Now, move the router to the right until the bit stops it...
Move the board on the left so it supports the left side of the router by a safe 1/2". That is the Key distance that those 2 boards have to be so the router can be moved up / down and sideways without dropping through the boards.

Place one of the other 2 boards across the boards where you had the router... with about 2-3" hanging over each side of the N/S boards, Mark it and cut it.

Cut another piece the same length.

Place one of the short boards over the N/S boards, centered, and about 2-3" from the top (North) end. No glue required... just a couple of screws at each intersection.

Place the board you want to flatten, bow UP, on the bench oriented East/West... Hook the screwed short board over the board to be flattened... Fasten the other short board (with just screws) across the long boards so the Workpiece can slide between the 2 short boards the full length (24" in this case).

The short boards should be as thick to keep the long boards just above the workpiece... In my case, 1" or so...

The jig is done... now use it...

Turn it so the short boards are on the bench and the workpiece can slide through the opening.

MAKE SURE THE ROUTER CAN SLIDE FROM SIDE TO SIDE AND END TO END WITHOUT FALLING THROUGH THE LEFT/RIGHT SUPPORTING BOARDS.

Adjust your bit depth so it takes a small amount of wood... tighten it good.

It's a good idea to clamp things down a little... keeping them out of the way,

Now, you have the router in place, in the open area, turn it on, and slowly move the router forward / backward and then to the side for more... get it all cleaned out...

Move the workpiece over to expose more to be flattened, with some overlap... and continue til done...

Adjust the bit, as required, to get to the final depth... and do it again.
(it might be possible for you to do it all in one pass)

Now, turn it over, onto the flattened side, and do the same to that side!

Caution: When moving the router across the board, ALWAYS keep the router flat on the guide boards... if you make any tilting movements, YOU MAY GOUGE THE WORKPIECE... learned that the hard way.

=================================

That's it!!

It takes a little router movement, but it goes by fast, and you will like the results!

Good luck!!

Joe Lyddon · 12-03-2006, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobj3

Hi Joe

I used the Grizzly one below because it was a Enclosed type and it would be working in dust cabinet so to speak,the dust box is just about a 1 1/2 " from the motor,and I rate motors by the amps. they pull that tells me a lot about the motor.
I have a had good luck with Grizzly motors in the pass.

I'm not sure about HF motors I have not used one >.

* Type: Enclosed
* Size: 1/2 HP
* RPM: 1725
* AMPS @ 110V / 220V: 8.8 / 4.4

Full 1 Year Warranty!

http://www.grizzly.com/products/G2528

The sander is working great

, I was going to fire up the joint and the planer and I said OK lets see what this thing can do , Work great for both jobs.
I need a be more time with it to keep out the snipe out on the end when I come off of it like most tools, time,time,time with the tool.

JOE just a note ,,, the kit will come with 2 pulleys both are 1/2" I.D. so you will need to get a 5/8" I.D. one for the motor you get. 2" one.

Bj

Bob,

I just placed orders... Motor from Grizzly and 18" drum works (w/ free DVD & 10 yd. roll of sandpaper) 2 6" Mops w/ FREE 1" Mini Mop!

I forgot to mention the 5/8" pulley... will have to call them to get that changed... (they will do it, I understand).

Will let you know how it goes.

Joe

**bobj3** · 12-03-2006, 06:59 PM

Hi Joe

Please let me know.besure to view the DVD b/4 you start, it's not the same as the PDF plans, the one they make (on the DVD) is like a shoe box with the motor that hangs on the front of the sander drum box, it's almost funny but not at a 200.oo price tag.
But it's a small family company but that's ok because the kit is worth it ,but the DVD is funny in a way.
Note the top they cut with the table saw and then note the one they use,it's been done with a router, you can tell by the round ends of the opening for the drum on the back side of the top.

(45deg. with rounded ends)

Note to sure where to post this, but it's here now so I guess you will see it .

Bj

Joe Lyddon · 12-04-2006, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobj3

Hi Joe

Please let me know.besure to view the DVD b/4 you start, it's not the same as the PDF plans, the one they make (on the DVD) is like a shoe box with the motor that hangs on the front of the sander drum box, it's almost funny but not at a 200.oo price tag.
But it's a small family company but that's ok because the kit is worth it ,but the DVD is funny in a way.
Note the top they cut with the table saw and then note the one they use,it's been done with a router, you can tell by the round ends of the opening for the drum on the back side of the top.

(45deg. with rounded ends)

Note to sure where to post this, but it's here now so I guess you will see it .

Bj

They intercepted my phone msg abt the 5/8" pulley needed...
They also emailed me asking me of the grit I wanted on the free 10 yd. roll... I got 220...

I think you said you made your outfeed 1/16" thicker to get the jointer control... still have snipe? I was thinking that maybe 1/32" might be better.(?) I will be making my own top, etc.

Yep, I think now that the damage has been done, we continue posting here... I did start another thread with a link to here...

Thanks for dvd heads up... I tend to over-study & plan everything I do... One of the reasons it takes me so long to finish projects.

Later,
Joe

**bobj3** · 12-04-2006, 03:55 PM

HI Joe

"emailed me asking me of the grit" = same on this end and I did mark the order forum what grit I wanted, but no big deal, I also got the 220grit. on the DVD he removes the 150grit. that comes on the drum and puts on the 220grit. to set it up for the 1st. time.
Like I said it's a funny DVD he just pulls it off like a old rag and then rolls on the new one with a (220) new type of cut on the ends.(sq.cut)not to a sharp point ( funny guy red neck type LOL .) looks like he runs his company out of his big garage.
How to tell if you're a red neck, you sell drum sanders to wood workers on the net hahahahahahaha from suckers.com ,hope not for my part.

BUT I think I will rework the plans some day and come up with one that deosn't need the out feed part.
Set it up like a planer, I now have all the parts I need I just need a new set of plans to raise and lower the drum just like a planer.,once one side is flat just flip it over and send it one more time under the drum sander.

But it now works OK for me

"1/16" thicker" = I readed the plans over and over to see how to set it up and I could not see how they keep the snipe from coming into play, you know and I know when you remove stock you need something to take it's place.
So I put the drum slot on the back side of the top so I could use the 1/16" stock to fill the void after the stock was removed.
I could not get it right in my head by using a flat top, I could see how it would work if the drum was on the top of the stock but below the stock it blew my mine.

Planer jointer thing in my head

Bj

Joe Lyddon · 12-11-2006, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe Lyddon

Bob,

I just placed orders... Motor from Grizzly and 18" drum works (w/ free DVD & 10 yd. roll of sandpaper) 2 6" Mops w/ FREE 1" Mini Mop!

I forgot to mention the 5/8" pulley... will have to call them to get that changed... (they will do it, I understand).

Will let you know how it goes.

Joe

I called them today inquiring about my order...

Would you believe it was found to NOT to have been shipped?!!

My order had been set aside for some reason...

ANYWAY, it's on it's way to me now!! ... I have the motor... got it last week...

Oh well...

**bobj3** · 12-11-2006, 07:18 PM

Hi Joe

I was thinking about that and you today

I said he must have it done by now and was looking for his cam. to take a snapshot or two

It never fails when you want something now someone drops the ball.

Bj

LinkBacks (?) LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.routerforums.com/portable-routing/2555-planing-router.html
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