simplenik

Good day

I did try to make a glue joint on the router table with the 1/32" on the outfeed fence but it never worked for me.

So I went with something that is more "idiot proof" - straight edge.
Yes, it takes more time but, I'm an amateur and "time is not money"

The problem was the correct positioning of the straight edge, so I made small "positioning blocks" for 3/8" bit.

the example is made with Melamine boards.

Regards
niki

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simplenik

Some pictures with the "real stuff"

bobj3

Looks good niki

Just one more way to do it ▼

You may want to try one of Bob's and Rick's tricks for jointing to timbers.

Let me see if I get this right, put down a scrap board that you don't want then put the 1st. board down then put the 2nd board down so it will OVER Lap the 1st then put down a 3rd. board UNDER the 2nd. board then clamp the boards in place on the work bench then chuck up a carb. bit or good flush trim bit and make a pass on the 2nd. and the 1st. boards at the same time you can use a board for a guide but you don't need to the boards will match up right on the button.
Note***if you use a flush trim bit you will need a slot in the scrap board for the bearing to run in, but the flush bit will give you a real nice clean cut.

see the drawing below.

Bj

Attached Thumbnails

   

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Bj

simplenik

Thank you BJ

Very nice idea but, (why always there is this but)

The boards thickness that you see on the pictures is 1-3/16" (30mm) each and I don't know if I can find such a long bit to cover 2-3/8" [I have only 8mm (5/16") shank router].

BTW, the same idea (with small variation), can be used to make a glue line with the CS.

I'll keep the idea for the 3/4" boards.

niki

bobj3

You'er Welcome niki

Here's a bit that will do it, but it maybe time to get a bigger router like a 3 1/4HP.
Plus you can then use a router table just like a jointer on the edges of your stock.
And if you use a jig that Bob and Rick use all the time you will be amaze how neat they come out with just a pass or two on the router table,clean and true.
You can also use a 1/4" shank bit to do it on the router table but it's a bit hard on the skew/shear angle flush trim bit.
-----
see drawing below for the jointer fence below ▼

Bj

http://www.grizzly.com/products/C1014
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Shear Angle Flush Trim Bits
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...r_angle_anchor

Spiral Flush Trim Bit
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../bt_solid.html




Bj

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Bj

simplenik

Thank you BJ

Let me tell you some facts about me:
I live in Poland and from November to April, I'm on "vacation", impossible to work in the garage at temperatures close to the freezing point without heating and the car must be in the garage.

I'm an amateur and make 2 or 3 projects a year

The M12V costs here $600 (230V) comparing to $120 in USA

All the products here are in "Metric" so all the 1/4" and 1/2" bits will not fit

Even if the US company will agree to ship the product to Europe (for example, Amazon does not) the shipping costs will be added to the price and the local customs will want his share and on top of all this accumulated cost, I have to pay 22% VAT. Not only, but if something goes wrong, I actually don't have any guaranty on the product because the US company does not have a branch in EU.

I know that you are trying to help and I thank you for that but the reality...

Don't get me wrong, I'm happy with what I have and with what I can do with it, I'm just trying to keep my hobby as "hobby" and not to spend too much money if I can get around a problem with what I have, even if it "costs" me more time, and time is unlimited in my case (I'm retired).

On the pics, you can see one of my projects that I made with my limited equipment and no, I don't have Panel raising bit (nor the router to turn it).

Thanks again
niki

bobj3

Very nice job on the cabinets

You may want to enter the Contest see link below,who knows you just may win with cabinets like that, it's free to enter

http://www.routerforums.com/forum-contests/

Still just trying to help, check out the links below
(Metric router bits and routers ) at great a price.


http://stores.ebay.com/The-Hunter-To...QQftidZ2QQtZkm
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll..._promot_widget


Be sure to read the header about the VAT.


Bj

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Bj

curiousgeorge

WOW!
Niki that doesn't look like the work of an amateur to me... VERY IMPRESSIVE. I have a new hero.

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George

If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem...

simplenik

Hi BJ

It's too complicated.
First the bit shanks are still Imperial only the bit dia is metric.(we use 6,8 or 12mm shanks)
The company is located in US.
The VAT is paid for UK but here I have to pay the local VAT of 22%.
The shipping is with UPS and we know their prices
What quality you can expect from a "no-name" bit that costs $3

For the time being, I have enough reserves of bits that I bought in Japan and if I shall need, I'll try to get it locally from some "brand".

When it comes to router bits or TS blades I'm buying good ones, as they say, "I'm too poor to by cheap"...

BTW, check this link, It's an Israeli company that one of the shops here told me that they are one of the best in the world
http://wpw.co.il/products.htm

About the contest, even if I'll win they will not send it to me because of the shipping price...

George
Thanks for the compliment but it's still "Amatorski" (Polish for Amateur)

Thanks
niki

del schisler

this is the the fence that i have and used to use all the time And with a flush trim bit The glue line was gone Than i updated my jointer And now I use the jointer The link for all the fence's

http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=TF01--

http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.htm...-&product=F020

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del schisler