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simplenik · 01-01-2007, 11:19 AM

Thank you Del

As I said in my reply to BJ, I live in Poland and the $40 will become at least $80 or more considering the shipping (if they ship), customs tax and 22% VAT.

I'm an amateur and I'm trying to save money on things that I can make myself or come around with an alternate methods. So even the $40 are expensive for me.

Here is a jig that I intend to make, it was invented long time ago by a person that passed away 5 years ago (at the age of 86) and it's for use on the router table with flush trim bit.

niki

**bobj3** · 01-01-2007, 06:08 PM

niki

I see you like to make your own jigs like I do and I know you said you can't get Amazon to ship to you but maybe you can have someone buy the items (books) below and send them to you, I do highly Recommend the BOOKS below

.

Woodworking with the Router
http://www.amazon.com/Woodworking-Ro...e=UTF8&s=books

Router Magic
http://www.amazon.com/Router-magic-B...e=UTF8&s=books

They both have many jigs in them and cover routers from A to Z...

Bj

simplenik · 01-02-2007, 11:52 AM

Thank you BJ

Interestingly, Amazon does ship books to all over the world, but only books.

I bought Bill Hylton's book some 10 years ago from Amazon and it's my "Bible"

At the same time I bought also Roy Sutton's "Jig making for the router", he is covering all the basic jigs including stairs building jig and all of them are the "mother" of simplicity.

niki

Falegname · 04-01-2008, 07:36 PM

I tried jointing with a router and a straight edge jig. The first board worked OK, but the second was a disaster. The router started ripping out chunks of wood and splintering the edge of the board. Here are the particulars:
Wood: poplar 7/8" thick
Bit: carbide, brand new 1/2 "straight bit, 1/2" shank, 1 1/2" cutting depth
Speed: 23,000 rpm
Depth of cut: 1/16"

Turns out I was going against the grain. Is that a no-no? Was I trying to move the router too fast? Would someone please try to tell me the error of my ways? Thanks.

I'd like to include pictures but don't know how to do it. Would some help me there? Again, thanks.

**bobj3** · 04-01-2008, 08:01 PM

Hi Falegname

You should be fine, sometimes you need to go against the grain but it's not the best way the norm

, I would suggest you to check the bit for damage..
Or maybe just sand off the 1/16" with your belt sander..

You can make a quick jig that holds the belt sander on it's side and a fence just like doing it on the router table or jointer...

Here's link to show you how to UPLOAD some pictures

http://www.routerforums.com/howattachment.php
http://www.routerforums.com/help.php

========

Quote:

Originally Posted by Falegname

I tried jointing with a router and a straight edge jig. The first board worked OK, but the second was a disaster. The router started ripping out chunks of wood and splintering the edge of the board. Here are the particulars:
Wood: poplar 7/8" thick
Bit: carbide, brand new 1/2 "straight bit, 1/2" shank, 1 1/2" cutting depth
Speed: 23,000 rpm
Depth of cut: 1/16"

Turns out I was going against the grain. Is that a no-no? Was I trying to move the router too fast? Would someone please try to tell me the error of my ways? Thanks.

I'd like to include pictures but don't know how to do it. Would some help me there? Again, thanks.

Falegname · 04-01-2008, 08:13 PM

Thanks BJ. Here is the picture.

**bobj3** · 04-01-2008, 08:20 PM

You'er Welocome James

Looks like it ,,the bit started to bounce around a bit then it dug it , you may want to recheck the jointer fence to see it's set right or moved just a bit after the 1st. pass...

Maybe take a lighter cut,,,,1/64" then try it one more time..then make a pass or two to get it just right.

=======

Falegname · 04-01-2008, 08:31 PM

This wasn't done on a jointer. It's a jig I found in Wood magazine. A straight edge fastened to a base; set back the distance from the edge of the router base to the edge of the bit. The workpiece is then clamped below the base. I left 1/16" exposed. The first one I did was fine. The bit was used twice: once to joint the edge of the plywood base and then to joint the first workpiece. Would a new carbide bit go bad that quickly? However I remember an old adage: "A good workman never blames his tools"

Falegname · 04-01-2008, 09:03 PM

Bob,
I went back and checked the bit, checked straight edge, and tried again on a piece of scrap; again against the grain with a 1/16" exposure. Only this time a lot more slowly. No problem this time. It looks like I was feeding way too fast. Ah, well. We live and learn; and make firewood as someone said. Thanks for your help and being a sounding board.

**bobj3** · 04-01-2008, 09:31 PM

Hi James

That's what I tough it was done with

routers table can do a great job.

A new blade can go bad right off the bat,,,the cutting edge is very,very small.
Hardwoods can dull them in a heart beat..

I know most say crank up the speed on small bits but I always keep the speed down, heat kills bits and speed = heat...the router will tell you if you are going to fast or to slow, it has a voice...

" "A good workman never blames his tools"" I bame the tool all the time , router bits are not all made the same,,, some good one and some bad ones, from the same Mfg. I call them made on a Fri.at 5:00 o'clock bits...

=========

01-01-2007, 11:19 AM	#11
simplenik Registered User Forum Geek Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 228 View simplenik's Gallery	Report This Post! Thank you Del As I said in my reply to BJ, I live in Poland and the $40 will become at least $80 or more considering the shipping (if they ship), customs tax and 22% VAT. I'm an amateur and I'm trying to save money on things that I can make myself or come around with an alternate methods. So even the $40 are expensive for me. Here is a jig that I intend to make, it was invented long time ago by a person that passed away 5 years ago (at the age of 86) and it's for use on the router table with flush trim bit. niki
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01-01-2007, 06:08 PM	#12
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,269 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! niki I see you like to make your own jigs like I do and I know you said you can't get Amazon to ship to you but maybe you can have someone buy the items (books) below and send them to you, I do highly Recommend the BOOKS below . Woodworking with the Router http://www.amazon.com/Woodworking-Ro...e=UTF8&s=books Router Magic http://www.amazon.com/Router-magic-B...e=UTF8&s=books They both have many jigs in them and cover routers from A to Z... Bj __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J.
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01-02-2007, 11:52 AM	#13
simplenik Registered User Forum Geek Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 228 View simplenik's Gallery	Report This Post! Thank you BJ Interestingly, Amazon does ship books to all over the world, but only books. I bought Bill Hylton's book some 10 years ago from Amazon and it's my "Bible" At the same time I bought also Roy Sutton's "Jig making for the router", he is covering all the basic jigs including stairs building jig and all of them are the "mother" of simplicity. niki
	Top - Reply with Quote

04-01-2008, 07:36 PM	#14
Falegname Registered User Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 25 View Falegname's Gallery	Report This Post! I tried jointing with a router and a straight edge jig. The first board worked OK, but the second was a disaster. The router started ripping out chunks of wood and splintering the edge of the board. Here are the particulars: Wood: poplar 7/8" thick Bit: carbide, brand new 1/2 "straight bit, 1/2" shank, 1 1/2" cutting depth Speed: 23,000 rpm Depth of cut: 1/16" Turns out I was going against the grain. Is that a no-no? Was I trying to move the router too fast? Would someone please try to tell me the error of my ways? Thanks. I'd like to include pictures but don't know how to do it. Would some help me there? Again, thanks. __________________ Regards, James
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04-01-2008, 08:13 PM	#16
Falegname Registered User Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 25 View Falegname's Gallery	Report This Post! Jointing with a router Thanks BJ. Here is the picture. Attached Thumbnails __________________ Regards, James Last edited by Falegname; 04-01-2008 at 08:20 PM. Reason: mispelling
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04-01-2008, 08:20 PM	#17
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,269 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! You'er Welocome James Looks like it ,,the bit started to bounce around a bit then it dug it , you may want to recheck the jointer fence to see it's set right or moved just a bit after the 1st. pass... Maybe take a lighter cut,,,,1/64" then try it one more time..then make a pass or two to get it just right. ======= __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J.
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04-01-2008, 08:31 PM	#18
Falegname Registered User Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 25 View Falegname's Gallery	Report This Post! This wasn't done on a jointer. It's a jig I found in Wood magazine. A straight edge fastened to a base; set back the distance from the edge of the router base to the edge of the bit. The workpiece is then clamped below the base. I left 1/16" exposed. The first one I did was fine. The bit was used twice: once to joint the edge of the plywood base and then to joint the first workpiece. Would a new carbide bit go bad that quickly? However I remember an old adage: "A good workman never blames his tools" __________________ Regards, James
	Top - Reply with Quote

04-01-2008, 09:03 PM	#19
Falegname Registered User Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 25 View Falegname's Gallery	Report This Post! Jointing with a router Bob, I went back and checked the bit, checked straight edge, and tried again on a piece of scrap; again against the grain with a 1/16" exposure. Only this time a lot more slowly. No problem this time. It looks like I was feeding way too fast. Ah, well. We live and learn; and make firewood as someone said. Thanks for your help and being a sounding board. __________________ Regards, James
	Top - Reply with Quote

04-01-2008, 09:31 PM	#20
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,269 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi James That's what I tough it was done with routers table can do a great job. A new blade can go bad right off the bat,,,the cutting edge is very,very small. Hardwoods can dull them in a heart beat.. I know most say crank up the speed on small bits but I always keep the speed down, heat kills bits and speed = heat...the router will tell you if you are going to fast or to slow, it has a voice... " "A good workman never blames his tools"" I bame the tool all the time , router bits are not all made the same,,, some good one and some bad ones, from the same Mfg. I call them made on a Fri.at 5:00 o'clock bits... ========= __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J.
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