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Rustic04 · 11-29-2007, 05:21 PM

All, very good reads on this subject. As a relative beginner, I have been wanting to try this bowl techique since the article came out in Woodsmith Issue 170. However, I have just recently attempted it and found it quite easy, even for this novice. Although I purchased a little bit of stock to try this out, it is great for using up scraps from other projects. I'm sure you guys would have much less of a learning curve than me, but here are a few pointers that I picked up by reading/re-reading the Woodsmith magazine article; playing/re-playing the on-line video; and, most of all, trial and error.

1. It was not initially obvious to me that Woodsmith was using a plexiglass router table insert to increase the footprint of the router so that the router base could be continually supported by both sides of the template. (I made a few unwanted gouges on the inside of the bowl on my first attempt before using the wider plate.
2. I found that using a router mat on my work bench worked much easier than attempting to hold the stock in a vice/clamp. This allowed me to easily re-orient the piece as needed during the routing.
3. I did not spend enough time "dressing up" the inside rim of my first MDF template. The template's oval cut on the scroll saw still had minor blade cut irregularities which, of course, translated into copied irregularities at those specific points in the bowl all the way down the inside of the piece. Thus, much more time was spent sanding out the inside of the bowl's hardwood instead of correcting this problem initially by sanding out the templates much softer surface.
4. I have a Skill router that comes with both a fixed base and a plunge base. I also used the recommended collet extension (which I think was 3 inches). I found that when using the fixed base without the collet extension, I could not adequately get low enough to align the top bit bearing against the 3/4" thick template when making the first few routing passes. Additionally, when using the plunge base with the collet extension, I could not get the bit high enough to take the recommended 3/16" (max) deep passes. It was initially just trying to gouge out too much at a time. So, my solution was to use another 3/4" MDF template (one of my first-try templates and let it "float" on top of the real template that was attached to my stock. The floating template doesn't even have to be the same size because I used it only for the additional thickness it provided. This extra floating template gave me more room above the stock to make my initial passes in the center of the stock before removing the extra template and then working slowly toward the sides of the bowl where the top bearing properly aligned with the attache template. Results: much smoother inside surface the first time. (make sense?)

Ok, you are all probably laughing at how green I am with this stuff, but I am really having fun. I would appreciate any feedback on how to do it different than I am.

Rustic04

**bobj3** · 11-29-2007, 05:33 PM

Hi Rustic04

You may also want to check out the links below

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9EZgb...eature=related

http://www.routerforums.com/guide-bu...te-guides.html

==============

Joe Lyddon · 11-29-2007, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rustic04

All, very good reads on this subject. As a relative beginner, I have been wanting to try this bowl techique since the article came out in Woodsmith Issue 170. However, I have just recently attempted it and found it quite easy, even for this novice. Although I purchased a little bit of stock to try this out, it is great for using up scraps from other projects. I'm sure you guys would have much less of a learning curve than me, but here are a few pointers that I picked up by reading/re-reading the Woodsmith magazine article; playing/re-playing the on-line video; and, most of all, trial and error.

1. It was not initially obvious to me that Woodsmith was using a plexiglass router table insert to increase the footprint of the router so that the router base could be continually supported by both sides of the template. (I made a few unwanted gouges on the inside of the bowl on my first attempt before using the wider plate.
2. I found that using a router mat on my work bench worked much easier than attempting to hold the stock in a vice/clamp. This allowed me to easily re-orient the piece as needed during the routing.
3. I did not spend enough time "dressing up" the inside rim of my first MDF template. The template's oval cut on the scroll saw still had minor blade cut irregularities which, of course, translated into copied irregularities at those specific points in the bowl all the way down the inside of the piece. Thus, much more time was spent sanding out the inside of the bowl's hardwood instead of correcting this problem initially by sanding out the templates much softer surface.
4. I have a Skill router that comes with both a fixed base and a plunge base. I also used the recommended collet extension (which I think was 3 inches). I found that when using the fixed base without the collet extension, I could not adequately get low enough to align the top bit bearing against the 3/4" thick template when making the first few routing passes. Additionally, when using the plunge base with the collet extension, I could not get the bit high enough to take the recommended 3/16" (max) deep passes. It was initially just trying to gouge out too much at a time. So, my solution was to use another 3/4" MDF template (one of my first-try templates and let it "float" on top of the real template that was attached to my stock. The floating template doesn't even have to be the same size because I used it only for the additional thickness it provided. This extra floating template gave me more room above the stock to make my initial passes in the center of the stock before removing the extra template and then working slowly toward the sides of the bowl where the top bearing properly aligned with the attache template. Results: much smoother inside surface the first time. (make sense?)

Ok, you are all probably laughing at how green I am with this stuff, but I am really having fun. I would appreciate any feedback on how to do it different than I am.

Rustic04

W e l c o m e !

I'm glad you had fun making the bowls... and thank you for your constructive notes!

Yep, those templates should be as perfect as you can get them... otherwise, it makes for more work or shoddy results.

**harrysin** · 12-01-2007, 06:00 AM

Rustic04 (that does sound impersonal), as a relative newcomer to routing you should be made aware of the fact that there are different ways to use the router, some safer than others, some more accurate than others and some are both. For a method different to the one you have used, take a look at this link to a deep routed box that I did a photo-shoot on some time ago.

http://www.routerforums.com/40472-post1.html

Joe Lyddon · 12-01-2007, 02:45 PM

Rustic04,

I was surprised to see the Woodsmith Link still functional!

http://www.woodsmith.com/issues/170/.../routed-bowls/

Enjoy...

11-29-2007, 05:21 PM	#21
Rustic04 Registered User Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 1 View Rustic04's Gallery	Report This Post! Routed Bowls--A beginner's story. All, very good reads on this subject. As a relative beginner, I have been wanting to try this bowl techique since the article came out in Woodsmith Issue 170. However, I have just recently attempted it and found it quite easy, even for this novice. Although I purchased a little bit of stock to try this out, it is great for using up scraps from other projects. I'm sure you guys would have much less of a learning curve than me, but here are a few pointers that I picked up by reading/re-reading the Woodsmith magazine article; playing/re-playing the on-line video; and, most of all, trial and error. 1. It was not initially obvious to me that Woodsmith was using a plexiglass router table insert to increase the footprint of the router so that the router base could be continually supported by both sides of the template. (I made a few unwanted gouges on the inside of the bowl on my first attempt before using the wider plate. 2. I found that using a router mat on my work bench worked much easier than attempting to hold the stock in a vice/clamp. This allowed me to easily re-orient the piece as needed during the routing. 3. I did not spend enough time "dressing up" the inside rim of my first MDF template. The template's oval cut on the scroll saw still had minor blade cut irregularities which, of course, translated into copied irregularities at those specific points in the bowl all the way down the inside of the piece. Thus, much more time was spent sanding out the inside of the bowl's hardwood instead of correcting this problem initially by sanding out the templates much softer surface. 4. I have a Skill router that comes with both a fixed base and a plunge base. I also used the recommended collet extension (which I think was 3 inches). I found that when using the fixed base without the collet extension, I could not adequately get low enough to align the top bit bearing against the 3/4" thick template when making the first few routing passes. Additionally, when using the plunge base with the collet extension, I could not get the bit high enough to take the recommended 3/16" (max) deep passes. It was initially just trying to gouge out too much at a time. So, my solution was to use another 3/4" MDF template (one of my first-try templates and let it "float" on top of the real template that was attached to my stock. The floating template doesn't even have to be the same size because I used it only for the additional thickness it provided. This extra floating template gave me more room above the stock to make my initial passes in the center of the stock before removing the extra template and then working slowly toward the sides of the bowl where the top bearing properly aligned with the attache template. Results: much smoother inside surface the first time. (make sense?) Ok, you are all probably laughing at how green I am with this stuff, but I am really having fun. I would appreciate any feedback on how to do it different than I am. Rustic04
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11-29-2007, 05:33 PM	#22
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,269 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi Rustic04 You may also want to check out the links below http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9EZgb...eature=related http://www.routerforums.com/guide-bu...te-guides.html ============== __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J.
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12-01-2007, 06:00 AM	#24
harrysin Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Western Australia Posts: 3,327 View harrysin's Gallery	Report This Post! Rustic04 (that does sound impersonal), as a relative newcomer to routing you should be made aware of the fact that there are different ways to use the router, some safer than others, some more accurate than others and some are both. For a method different to the one you have used, take a look at this link to a deep routed box that I did a photo-shoot on some time ago. http://www.routerforums.com/40472-post1.html __________________ *Harry* Last edited by harrysin; 12-01-2007 at 06:04 AM. Reason: To correct the link
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12-01-2007, 02:45 PM	#25
Joe Lyddon Banned Supreme Forum King Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Alta Loma, CA USA Posts: 2,168 View Joe Lyddon's Gallery	Report This Post! Rustic04, I was surprised to see the Woodsmith Link still functional! http://www.woodsmith.com/issues/170/.../routed-bowls/ Enjoy...
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