Joe Lyddon

This is easy and Very Safe!

Source:
Woodsmith #170 Vol. 29 Page 16

1. Make your template... 3/4" MDF
The inside of your bowl... mark it, cut it, sand it.
Drill screw holes in each corner; in a ways not to interfere with main bowl.
... out of a blank 18.75" x 10"


2. Prepare the parts; yes, parts... all being 15.75" x 7" of varied thicknesses.
Plane, sand, and glue them together.
For the Oval bowl, they used:
Three planks of 1/4" Padauk
Three planks of Maple; 1-3/16", 3/8", 3/8" (bottom toward top)
Ultimate sequence, Top down, will be:
Padauk 1/4"
Maple 3/8"
Padauk 1/4"
Maple 3/8"
Padauk 1/4"
Maple 1-3/16"


3. Route out the inside of the bowl...
Place template on top, screw it on, fully route (hog out) out the pattern.
You could start out with a straight bit and hog out most of the insides...
Then switch to a bowl / tray bit (with bearing) and route around the edge using a collet extension to get to bottom.


4. With a compass or simple marking gauge w/ pencil, mark the width (maybe 3/8" to allow for sanding) around the bowl from the inside of the bowl.


5. Band saw cut out the outside of the bowl.


6. Roundover the top edges 1/8"... Bottom 1/2" roundover.


7. Sand, using belt sander, the outside...

They didn't mention how to Finish them... mineral oil, I guess... (?)

They even show you how to make an 11" square 3/8" clear acrylic baseplate to be used with your router!

They show you four bowls... Plain Oval, Casserole rectangular type, Circular, and a Divided one. All done with just ONE template.

Check it out...

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template tom

Joe
does that mean the material thickness is nearly 2-3/4" thick.
How deep is the bowl internal depth? You certainly will need a collet extension to produce the depth.

What about showing some pics of the process as I am sure most router users would require more details before attempting such a project. Or I could be wrong.

I would certainly be interested in their comments.

If my memory serves me correctly there was a similar elliptical bowl with two sections and swivel lids some time ago using the method outlined which as a matter of interest I was not in favour of the process at that time.

What you have outlined seems similar to the previous method
Joe have you tried the method????
Tom

template tom

Joe
I had a look at my drawing folder as I remember drawing the project out as there was little details of the size of the object at that time
Enclosed drawing

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Joe Lyddon

Yes, 2.6875" thick.

The depth of the cut is about 2 5/16"...
Yes, they used a collet extension.
The "Bowl and Tray" bit they used has a bearing right on top of the cutter section so you are basically extending the intial Pattern after each cut around the Pattern (like a flush trim cut to the Pattern). They made each cut / pass 3/16" deep. They left the bottom thickness to be about 3/8" thick.


I think if I scanned and displayed pictures from their magazine, I would be breaking copyright rules... I think I have described it OK... really very simple.


Their 'divided' bowl is similar to your drawing (of next post) except theirs went straight across the center, with rounded bit corners. They just flopped the pattern over from left side to right side to cut each side leaving the uncut section in the middle.

They have a casserole dish, with extended handles on each end, all same wood.

Their divided and round bowls had a Padauk top only rim.

I'm not sure what 'previous' method you're referring to...

I have not tried the method... I just received the magazine in the mail... It seemed so simple and straight forward, I felt I had to report it.

The Template is actually screwed down to the outside corners of the bowl blanks... when fully hogged out, they merely used a marking gauge, with pencil, to mark the 3/8" thick sides using the inside cut as the reference. Then, they just cut it on a band saw, rounded the rims and bottom, then belt sanded.

If you can give me an idea of what pictures you'd like to see, maybe I can make my own drawing(s) to describe it without violating copyright laws.

template tom

Joe

What I was really interested in was someone having a go with the method before posting as an 'Easily Routed Bowl'
I do believe a trial should have been done before you consider it an easy project. Or were you just quoting the magazine?

The previous method I was referring to was the method of routing the shaped dish I submitted in the drawing. I must confess that I did not make the dish as I considered it was not the safest way go about it. In fact there was even a problem re the dimensions before I could get started to produce the drawings. Woodsmith usually produce wonderful drawings for the majorty of their projects.

I am not really in favour of the top bearing cutter for this type of projects as I prefer the template guide with the various cutters as I consider this to be a safer method.

I am still hopeful that some members of this forum will take up the challenge and produce projects with the use of the guides and submit their results for all to see.

Tom

Joe Lyddon

OK, Tom, I found something that you can look at... a short video that actually shows what I was trying to describe. You can now watch someone do it and see how simple it is.

http://www.woodsmith.com/issues/170/.../routed-bowls/

The following is the way they described the article:

"You can make great-looking wood bowls without turning or carving.
A template and simple router accessories make it easy."

Since Woodsmith is one of my favorite magazines, I, among others I'm sure, will vouch for them... when they "make it easy", they really mean it.
After reading and studying the arcticle, I too, felt that would be easy to do.

I think if one wanted to, they could use a Guide on the template instead of using a Bearing fitted cutter... if they wanted to.

challagan

Hi Joe, thanks for the link. That is pretty cool and easy! My only concern would be the extension in the router.... having never used one I wonder how well they work in most routers... do they stay tight... add run out, vibration etc. with such a big bit.

Thanks again for the link, I viewed a bunch of their video, some good quick little videos.

Corey

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Joe Lyddon

Hi Corey...

I did a search on Amazon and found these links...

Extender - MLCS - (must be good)
http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-Router-Co...4434807&sr=8-1

The Bowl & Tray bit they used... (CMT)
http://www.amazon.com/CMT-851-501-11...435077&sr=8-16

I was hoping there would be some reviews... but didn't see any...
Both are made by good companies... I think they should be safe enough, using normal precautions that we all do when it comes to router bits...

I like their short videos too... I find myself watching, watching, and watching them... addicting & very informative.

Here are the sanding pads they used... 3" size...
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...54&cat=1,42500

Hope this helps...

bobj3

Now That's a GOOD ONE Joe

I hope Mark puts that up as sticky, It shows how to make a bowl from sq.1 to the end....with the plunge router.
It's hard to cache the part about the ( the brass/steel guide ) I had to view 3 times to get it , the brass guide is in place when the bit is put in to the router and below the guide,in that way you don't need to use a BIG guide just a standard guide (1 1/2" ID) will do the job, the only thing that's need if the 8" or 11" sq. base plate (MAYBE) and the Extender to get down inside deep.

I have both 1/4" and 1/2" (Extender) and they are safe but I also have 3/8" and 1/2" router bits that are 4" long with 3" long cutting blades that way you don't need to use the Extender for the bit unless you want a round inside bottom but the sanding pad should do that just fine.

NOTE** the 1/4" Extender has a smaller collet nut (just checked on it ,it's 18mm) than the big one on the 1/2" Extender I think it will pass in a 1" ID brass guide,so that's to say you can use a standard 1/4" shank bottom bit that one can get for 6.oo bucks to get the inside bottom done.

Long bit ▼
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-1-4-SH-3-Bl...QQcmdZViewItem

Dish Cutter Bit, 1/4" Shank
http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1356

Bj


"You can now watch someone do it and see how simple it is."


http://www.woodsmith.com/issues/170/.../routed-bowls/

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challagan

Yeah, MLCS has a good one and I would use one to get a little more length out of a shorter bit but not sure with a big old bit like that. It is a cool process, but I would have a hard time taking my good flat stock and hogging all that waste out. Seems like an awful waste of good hardwood I quit making scroll saw boxes for that reason.. fun there is so much waste. I am more thrifty with my wood and stock budget!

Corey

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My Carving Website: The Iowa Woodcarver
http://iowacarver.tripod.com/

My Shop Website - Woodshop 51503
http://woodshop51503.tripod.com/