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Portable Routing Discussion area on the Portable Router and its applications. Bob and Rick say, "If the piece is bigger than the router then chances are it should be routed with the portable router."


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Old 05-02-2008, 06:30 PM   #21
Carl762
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that's not very encouraging, Router is Still My Name. Got the box right at my desk and will test her out this evening.
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Old 05-02-2008, 07:11 PM   #22
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Hi Router

Just my 2 cents

It's not a big deal, so many variables come into play because it's a single point cutting device,,unlike a table saw, each time you remove the motor from the motor base it will change, each time you adjust the settings on the bit it will change , each time you use a diff.bit it will change ,so many variables,the Colt can only take on 1/4" shank bits that's to say 1 1/4" max bit diam. plus because it spins at 8,000 rpm to 28,000 rpm's it will not make a hill of beans if it's out of wack by .010...but on the other hand if it's out by 1/16" well that would be a big deal...but I'm sure it's not ...and I'm sure the QC dept. would catch that error and would put it back for rework or in the junk box....or close the line down until they found the error...they don't need routers coming back to give them a bad name..


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Originally Posted by Router is still my name
Well, I had tried several different router bits and two centering pins with 3 super accurate squares. All are perfect in my other 4 routers.
So, I would say either they had the same batch of routers at lowes with the same problem. Or no one is testing the same way that I do.
Use a long router bit and test it from all 8 angles.
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Old 05-02-2008, 09:02 PM   #23
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I agree Bj.
It’s not a big deal on a trim router. I just have the habit of checking things to within 0.00001 and when it comes to routers it better be
(0.00000) But that’s on a large router. Since it’s been my only main tool for the past 30 years and I do all my joining and box jointoperations with it and everything else.
Even if it’s off by 0.002 the boards will join at an angle as the surface area increases. But since the trim router never gets used for that kind of stuff, it’s no big deal.
On the other hand if you use it for making dado in a tight spots and go deeper than ½ inch then there will be some minor issues.
But the problem with the colts I had was not in the motor or the shaft; the problem is in the housing when it’s locked down. It throws off the router bit. I could have made modifications and fixed it by shimming the sides but like I said even the Ridgid trim router is dead on and my old Stanley trim is dead on so I expect more from Bosch.
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Old 05-08-2008, 04:16 PM   #24
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How much off? Played around last night with the Bosch and I love the feel of it. If there's anything I can do to make it better, I'm game. I'll need absolute precision, as I am building guitars, small things, soon cabinets.
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Old 05-09-2008, 02:18 PM   #25
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Carl, you will be fine with your new Bosch Colt. When working with wood tolerances of .002" are not required. If a mosquito has a liquid lunch and breaks wind the humidity can go up enough to make wood swell that .002". Metal requires tolerances like that but not wood. Wood breathes and expands or contracts with humidity.
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