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**harrysin** · 07-17-2007, 01:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by challagan

Okay Harry, I had a quick look this morning before I had to run off for the office and knew I wanted to look at this closer tonight. Glad I remembered!

The Ski thing really hasn't grabbed me until I seen those pics this morning. Now I can see a use for that one for a guy that doesn't have a planer. How thick was the board before you planed it and how thick after? Can I ask how come you didn't do the other side and is further warping etc. a concern ? Please understand that I am not badgering you on this... I sincerely don't know what to expect and that is why I asked. This intrigues me. Thanks for posting that Harry. I will have to check out those Ski instructions again. I have some box stock that is 3/8 and 1/2 inch that is curved with about a 1/16 off the level surface in the middle of the board so it seems I should be able to do this on both sides to save the stock, even if I end up with 1/4 to 3/8 stock... it will still be more usable then it is now.

The inlay.... That gets me all revved up. That's the kind of thing I want to do more of. I can use my Milescraft Inlay and Spirocrafter to make inlays and or carvings and this is really something I want to do on my boxes in the future. I like what you did on this and that's a neat little jazzed up box. I would have to use my inlay bushing set though or the Milescraft set up!

Thanks for the post Harry and all the pics! BTW, thats how I line my boxes as well. I use 1/8 hardboard on smaller boxes and cover them like that. I use mat board for larger boxes.

Corey

Another question, what cutter do you use for the planing operation. Looks like a spiral bit maybe cut wouldn't something flat bottomed like a hinge mortising or dado clean up bit work well for this?

Corey, the board itself was 10.5mm but on a flat surface convex side up it was12.5mm meaning that at least 2mm had to be removed from each side, this would have left a board no more than 6mm thick, a little less than 1/4", too thin really for most projects. I used the curved board especially to demonstrate the ski mounted router in use. I didn't bother planing the inside of the bottom 1..the bottom would have been thin and 2..it can't be seen under the felt! (what the eye can't see, the heart can't grieve) The cutter I used was a 10mm end cutter, that is one with an extra cutting blade on the end, quite expensive here but as cheap as chips in the USA!.I think that the larger the diameter the better and can't see any reason why dado cutters couldn't be used. The question of surface circles has been mentioned,bear in mind that the router is controlled by the ski ends, so no pressure is applied to the router itself so the depth of cut shouldn't vary along the length of cut and going along the grain ensures a smooth finish that only needs two strokes of 600grade paper! If I have forgotten anything, don't hesitate to ask. I'm sorry for the late hour of this post, but blame you're senior moderator who Skyped me as I was about to log on to the forum and when we get talking time stands still!!!!

**harrysin** · 07-17-2007, 03:16 AM

Roger, as Corey pointed out, I buy the inlays ready made, I know that in a way it's cheating, however I simply lack the artistic talent and patience needed to make my own. But YOU Roger who does this sort of thing on a larger canvas on a daily basis should have little difficulty. Collect a range of veneers, rout a recess of whatever shape you require by the methods that I have shown and cut the required shapes/colours to fit as you would tiles. I think this is what is meant when they say "those who can, do, those who can't, teach"! Good luck to you and do keep us up to date with you're progress.

**challagan** · 07-17-2007, 05:20 AM

Thanks Harry, got to run but will look more closely when I get back!

Corey

kp91 · 07-17-2007, 06:51 AM

Planing bits- bottom cleaning bits.

I've had good results with these, and they aren't too expensive.

http://magnate.net/index.cfm?event=s...roup&theID=136

**harrysin** · 07-17-2007, 10:54 AM

Doug, they look perfect for the job and as I suggested, as cheap as chips over there.

Router is still my name · 07-17-2007, 10:53 PM

Any problems with rods flexing?
I used steel rods on my setup few years back and still got flexing.

**harrysin** · 07-17-2007, 11:07 PM

As mentioned, my rods are 12mm but I think that 10mm should be OK bearing in mind that you do NOT touch the router itself, all control is from the ends so the leverage that this gives has to be experienced, it is totally different to what you are used to.
Perhaps someone like Bj. might hop in and tell me what size hole the most common routers in the USA have, also possibly people in other countries.

gregW · 07-17-2007, 11:40 PM

Hi Harry,

Nice example of the use of the router supports...The guide rods on my Porter Cable 895 router don't go all the way through the base, so I had to make a sub base to allow me to use Tom's router supports, and all of the black spray paint in the world wouldn't make them look as GOOD as yours, but they do work GREAT!

I used 1/2" drill rod, but I used clamping blocks on mine instead of threading the ends of the rods, so I am able to adjust the span between the supports to accomodate a smaller working surface with my supports. I have only used them so far for added support when I was using templates and they have really worked out great for that task

I'll try to take some pictures of my setup before I go to bed tonight.

**harrysin** · 07-18-2007, 12:25 AM

I'm sure that we all look forward to seeing you're photos Greg.

gregW · 07-18-2007, 12:31 AM

Well it's a bit dark out but I think you can get the idea of my router supports from these pictures...

I used Bob's knobs and Niki's non-slip to hold everything together

07-17-2007, 03:16 AM	#12
harrysin Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Western Australia Posts: 2,492 View harrysin's Gallery	Roger, as Corey pointed out, I buy the inlays ready made, I know that in a way it's cheating, however I simply lack the artistic talent and patience needed to make my own. But YOU Roger who does this sort of thing on a larger canvas on a daily basis should have little difficulty. Collect a range of veneers, rout a recess of whatever shape you require by the methods that I have shown and cut the required shapes/colours to fit as you would tiles. I think this is what is meant when they say "those who can, do, those who can't, teach"! Good luck to you and do keep us up to date with you're progress. __________________ *Harry*
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07-17-2007, 05:20 AM	#13
challagan Retired Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Iowa Posts: 3,890 View challagan's Gallery	Thanks Harry, got to run but will look more closely when I get back! Corey __________________ My Website - Woodshop 51503 http://woodshop51503.tripod.com/
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07-17-2007, 06:51 AM	#14
kp91 Marine Engineer Forum King Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Fredericksburg, VA Posts: 873 View kp91's Gallery	Planing bits- bottom cleaning bits. I've had good results with these, and they aren't too expensive. http://magnate.net/index.cfm?event=s...roup&theID=136 __________________ Doug 1 John 1:9
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07-17-2007, 10:54 AM	#15
harrysin Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Western Australia Posts: 2,492 View harrysin's Gallery	Doug, they look perfect for the job and as I suggested, as cheap as chips over there. __________________ *Harry*
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07-17-2007, 10:53 PM	#16
Router is still my name Registered User Forum King Join Date: May 2006 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 533 View Router is still my name's Gallery	Any problems with rods flexing? I used steel rods on my setup few years back and still got flexing. __________________ router è ancora il mio nome
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07-17-2007, 11:07 PM	#17
harrysin Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Western Australia Posts: 2,492 View harrysin's Gallery	As mentioned, my rods are 12mm but I think that 10mm should be OK bearing in mind that you do NOT touch the router itself, all control is from the ends so the leverage that this gives has to be experienced, it is totally different to what you are used to. Perhaps someone like Bj. might hop in and tell me what size hole the most common routers in the USA have, also possibly people in other countries. __________________ *Harry*
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07-17-2007, 11:40 PM	#18
gregW Registered User Forum Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: California, USA Posts: 137 View gregW's Gallery	Hi Harry, Nice example of the use of the router supports...The guide rods on my Porter Cable 895 router don't go all the way through the base, so I had to make a sub base to allow me to use Tom's router supports, and all of the black spray paint in the world wouldn't make them look as GOOD as yours, but they do work GREAT! I used 1/2" drill rod, but I used clamping blocks on mine instead of threading the ends of the rods, so I am able to adjust the span between the supports to accomodate a smaller working surface with my supports. I have only used them so far for added support when I was using templates and they have really worked out great for that task I'll try to take some pictures of my setup before I go to bed tonight. __________________ Greg -------------------------------
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07-18-2007, 12:25 AM	#19
harrysin Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Western Australia Posts: 2,492 View harrysin's Gallery	I'm sure that we all look forward to seeing you're photos Greg. __________________ *Harry*
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07-18-2007, 12:31 AM	#20
gregW Registered User Forum Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: California, USA Posts: 137 View gregW's Gallery	Well it's a bit dark out but I think you can get the idea of my router supports from these pictures... I used Bob's knobs and Niki's non-slip to hold everything together Attached Thumbnails __________________ Greg -------------------------------
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