Joe Lyddon

OK, how about a Dremel type tool...

Already assembled?!
... that's a real curve ball...

Good luck.

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JDługosz

Here is a photo of the bad rabbet:

(( it did not let me post an image!! How did other people manage it? So paste it together the hard way: the domain is
three w's, the domain name "dlugosz", and the most COMmon top-level-domain with dots added, and the file is "files postings 2007 9 bad_rabbet.jpg" with the spaces replaced by slashes))

The line was scribed before routing.

Since the blowouts are associated with wavy cuts, I think the wobble of the router has a lot to do with it.

My plans are to make a router base that spans the whole box width so it will be steady, yet still be easy to make multiple passes. Clamping edges around would have to be done piecemeal. I'll also take smaller bites in the horizontal direction (start with larger bearings).

Also, thanks for the tip of rabbeting half depth and doing the same for the back panel.

—John

JDługosz

I have a mini circular saw blade for the Dremel. But I don't have a router-like base for it, and freehanding would not work for me.

I wonder, does anyone make 1/2" router shaft mandrels that can take various Dremel tool disks?

--John

bobj3

Hi John
I tried to find your picture on your web site but didn't find it, here's link to it

http://www.dlugosz.com/

if you fill in the rest of the address in your post it should pop up

or your can do this way

dlugosz.com/bad_rabbet.jpg



just drop the 1st.part of the address


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__________________
Bj

bobj3

Hi John

Dremel, Yes they do, http://grizzly.com/ but I'm not sure what you mean by "shaft mandrels"


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Bj

JDługosz

(omitted first parts) dlugosz.com/files/postings/2007/9/bad_rabbet.jpg

JDługosz

The Dremel router base isn't for the cordless models. It has a more melted "ergonomic" shape rather than a neat cylinder.

By "1/2 inch router shaft mandrel" I mean a mandrel that fits in a 1/2 inch router collet. But instead of a bit, it would have a screw on the end.

JDługosz

Thanks all for the comments.

I got it to work this weekend, by keeping the router level and cutting 1/8" at a time.

Because I was going to make three passes, I didn't want to keep moving and reclamping an edge. I made a router base that was as wide as the cabinet, and bridged the large gap. It worked beautifully.

Also, I went to full depth but changed guide bearings three times, to take 1/8" at a time in that direction.

I still scribed the line first, too.

—John

bobj3

Hi JDługosz

Not that I know about but you can get a Adaptor, then just push in the Dremel tool mandrel into the adaptor...I use it this way when I need to use the SMALL router bits with the 1/8" shanks..the bits are about 1/4 the size of the standard router bits..But I also use the mandrels in my Dremel router table for doing fine work...also and in the Colt router table...

-----------
Steel Adaptor Bushings

Part niumber #273 1/2" to 1/8"

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../adapbush.html


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Bj

Rard

Mike when you said "use an edge guide with some kind of wood attached" I assume that you mean wood attached or clamped to the outside of the case which would not only keep the edge guide from riding across the cabinet case but would serve as a wider platform for the router to ride on to help keep it square?

__________________
The optimist fell ten stories
And at each window bar
He shouted to his friends
All right so far
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