Quality of Edge Guides

bobj3

Hi Allthunbs

I may just do that in time...lets start with just one the OP jig,called
Mitre Gauge
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=RTS-MGS-

I didn't make this jig but I did make one like it...
It can do many,many router jobs not just a mitre, any time you need a sled you have one...lets take putting a lap joint on a 45 deg. board, that's a hard one without a good sled,, all that's needed is some boards clamped tot the top to use for guides, some will say I use tee track for that job but if you do you need tee slot bolts in the sled to hold the sled true, with clamped boards in place no track needed..

Lets take holding small parts the sled can do that job well and safe.
Lets take making R & S parts this sled can do that job very well also.
Lets take putting in sliding dovetail ,,,that can be tricky at best without this type of jig..

I would say this one jig can do about 30 router jobs that's just off the top of my head

I don't buy many jigs but this one I had to have it's that good..

I would rate it 5 stars out of 5 stars it's base on the KISS way..

I guess I will get off the soap box now and make a list of the jigs that can do more than one job..

One small note*** about jigs,,to me it's like having a full set of drill bits I may not use them all but if I don't have a full set I can use the one I need for the job...

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allthunbs

Interesting choice. I have passed on this one in the past. Perhaps time to reconsider.

The worst part of it is in the US you only work in Imperial measure. In Canada, I've suddenly discovered that I need metric and Imperial tools. I thought I might use the ski rods for the duplicator. I don't have a metric drill set and I have a 12mm rod. Imperial "close enough" is too sloppy.

Ah well. onward and upward. More list please.

I'm building skis, template capability, shiis, extended baseplate, foot, circle/ellipse jig, duplicator (with oversized table for use with skiis as well,) (I'm going to forget the pantograph -- too fraught with problems), freehand sign baseplate, smaller template guides baseplate, and this is the start.

Allthunbs

bobj3

Hi allthunbs

" The worst part of it is in the US you only work in Imperial measure. In Canada,"

That's very true,, it would be nice if we all could use just one system, I do like the metric system the best but don't tell Harry or Tom I love to play with there heads a lot... LOL LOL but it would be nice if I could get them to drive on the right side of the road...

" metric drill set " you may have check your number and letter drill bits

The ski jig is one of the best jigs I have, it also can do many,many jobs that the router table can't do well,, it took me a very long time to get that down..I'm a bit hard headed sometimes. just ask Harry

But once I get it look out I will tell everyone how great the ski jig is, Harry doesn't like me to suggest full threaded rod but it opens just one more way to use the ski jig.....like putting in a slot in a board,,,that's always a bit hairy on the table router....you need to drop the stock on the bit and when the bit pops out of the stock it's time for the TP roll on the side of the router table... the ski jig makes that job easy and safe...I do it all the time just for the fun of it in some scrap just to remind me how neat it is.

===

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__________________
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Hamlin

HI allthunbs,

I have to second to what Bj said about the OP mitre gauge. It's one of those jigs that has multiple uses. If you take a real close and hard look at all the OP jigs. They all follow 1 rule. K.I.S.S. rule. I have all of OP jigs, haven't used them all yet but, in time I will.

As for the "skis", I have a better understanding of them just from Harry and Bj. This is on the "to do" list.

Cheers.

__________________
Ken

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allthunbs

You are a masochist. Could you imagine the carnage with Harry driving on the right side. He's bad enough on the left! Hey, I looked at some of those box lids he made. They are just one continuous loop. Could you imagine if he drove that way?LOL

I inerited a broad range of bits from about a dozen complete sets of Imperial, several sets of numbered, part of a lettered set and even a few Worthington. Not one metric. This is in spite of the fact that my father worked in metric starting before the second war.

I don't have to ask Harry, I can tell you. I wrote a very thorough treatise on the benefits of smooth rod over threaded and you never even commented. That's hard headed LOL

I'm trying to figure this one out. The only way I can get a slot into a board is using a table and fence. I just tape my start and end points and away I go. That's how I built the skis. Far more accurate with table and fence then it is with skis. What's the TP roll?

Allthunbs

Hamlin

Toilet paper roll.

__________________
Ken

***Please fill in your profile, at least your location. As this will help us help you better.***

"A VETERAN"
"Whether active duty, retired, national guard or reserve - is someone who, at one point in their life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America", for an amount of "up to and including my life". That is HONOR, and there are way too many people in this country who no longer understand it." -Author Unknown

bobj3

HI allthunbs



" I don't have to ask Harry, I can tell you. I wrote a very thorough treatise on the benefits of smooth rod over threaded and you never even commented."

Well I didn't want to start something,, I have used both, and the threaded is much better ....you can lock the skis and use the mount board as a guide to hold the router running true...it's true you can move the router and lock it down in place but in time the screws will nick the smooth rods and once they are they will hang up the router when you move it over not to say anything how much cheaper and essayer it is to make the ski jig with full thread rod... anyone can go to any hardware store and get the hardware to make one for peanuts ...most don't have a tap and die set and they don't want to job it out to a machine shop..just for a jig,, it comes down to the KISS way of doing it..

" slot into a board " yes I did it that way for many years and used a 1/2 of roll of TP,,,,and change my shorts a time or two.. LOL I have like many others had the bit come right out of the top of the board and keep on coming out , the pro. Bob R. did it one day on the RWS show I was watching I don't know why they didn't cut it out of the show maybe to show it can happen to anyone he made a small point about it but not to long...he press the point about getting the bit tight and he just about always has a push block on the stock but not that time and his hand was at the end of the board...just about to lift it up off the bit..

That can't come about with the ski jig, that's to say if the bit was not tight you are still safe and no need for the TP..

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I'm sure you saw the post by Ken about the TP he was dead on,, I also use it to blow my nose,,and wipe my glasses clean..so to say it comes in handy in the shop...not to say anything about wiping up the glue I use paper towes but the TP is always handy and I know where it's at all the time

TP = great shop tool

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The ski jig makes it so easy and safe it will blow your mind and you will say the same as I ,how in the heck do I do without it for so long...
I have use the plunge router with a guide many times but it's just not the same as the ski jig...

__________________
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Part Finder
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Need some help replacing the parts
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Router Tables ,Ready to use
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http://rt1000.com/_wsn/page2.html

Bob J.

allthunbs

Ya, right. You work as hard at razzing Harry as I do. The day you don't want to start something will be the day your descendands pass on. I just bet you've left a few zingers in your will ;-)

It's called a brass machine screw with a thumb top and it won't nick drill stock. ;-) Actually, the Hitachi won't let you get nuts too close to the lock down point on the router. I have to run sleeves over the threaded rod in order to run a nut tight to the router. Doesn't work worth a hoot for me.

Actually, I followed your argument and tried it with threaded rod. I'm glad I use smooooooooooth rod. Much more versatile. Not restrictive like threaded rods

I didn't get to watch that episode. But, that's why I have solid 2 x 4 skirts all around the bit trajectory on my table. I have lost a few bits due to inattention and every time it happens I get smart for a bit.

Don't kid yourself. I've tightened bits and had them work their way loose. The Craftsman I had was great for that. That's how I broke the shaft lock, trying to tighten a loose bit.

TP = toilet paper?

Ok, we leave on an agreeable note.

Allthunbs ;-)

garycurtis

I was the original poster on this thread. Lucky me, I just found a brand new Micro Fence on eBay and won the bidding. And yesterday I went to a demo put on by Festool at the local lumber dealer. I have the Festool OF 1400 and haven't used it. Aside from showing me how the router works, we cut some Dado's using the Festool MFT table to clamp the wood.

I bought the Festool primarily to cut Dados. The tablesaw method is too "frisky" for my tastes. So I feel pretty well set in the router department to tackle a a lot more jobs. Thanks for the responses to this thread. The Micro Fence is the real deal.

Gary Curtis

Mike Wingate

I have a pair of large routers. Similar castings, one is an old Elu MOF 177e, the other is a brand new DW625e. The difference in the weight if the fences is 40gms.My oldest is 515gms, one I bought to make up a pair to use when mortising and straddling the wood weighs 490gms. The new one with the DW625e is 475gms. The castings are thinner, the structural webs have been reduced.A money saving necessity?