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| This is a discussion on The making of a balloon clock within the Project Plans and How To forums, part of the General Woodworking category; Whilst this particular clock is quite small, it's total height being 185mm [7 3/8"], the ... |
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05-11-2009, 02:15 AM
| #1 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor   |
Whilst this particular clock is quite small, it's total height being 185mm [7 3/8"], the size is determined by the diameter of the bezel. between 20 and 30mm is added to the dia. of the bezel. I have used metric measurements but there is no problem using imperial. where I have used a 30mm template guide and 10mm cutter, giving a 10mm offset, a 1 1/4" guide and 3/8" cutter giving a 7/8" offset would be quite OK. This project does not require the use of the skis but a jig/template box IS required, mine measures 300mm x 400mm but 12" X 15" is perfect. The three templates are made from 9mm [3/8"] MDF but this isn't critical. Note the mitred corners to make removal of the templates easy.
__________________ Harry The best advice that I can give a newcomer to routing is, learn to use the router mounted, this can be as simple as a board held in a vice, with the router firmly attached and a simple fence held with clamps, and when he/she feels competant and confident in it's use and is familiar with all aspects of safety, THEN, and only then proceed to learn how to use the router hand held. This is MY opinion, and may or may not coincide with that of the forum management, but is based on a lifetime of woodworking. http://members.dodo.com.au/~sharry02/ | ||
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05-11-2009, 03:04 AM
| #2 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor |
I've never made a secret of the fact that I make many silly mistakes but over the years have become adept at finding solutions. This second part shows the first mistake and how I chose to fix it. I should mention here that the size of the American Oak was 165mm [6 1/2"] X 210mm [8 1/4"] but this isn't critical, the important criteria is that at no point must it be possible for the cutter to touch the holding devices, be these cams, wedges or pieces of scrap MDF pinned around the sides.
__________________ Harry The best advice that I can give a newcomer to routing is, learn to use the router mounted, this can be as simple as a board held in a vice, with the router firmly attached and a simple fence held with clamps, and when he/she feels competant and confident in it's use and is familiar with all aspects of safety, THEN, and only then proceed to learn how to use the router hand held. This is MY opinion, and may or may not coincide with that of the forum management, but is based on a lifetime of woodworking. http://members.dodo.com.au/~sharry02/ | ||
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05-11-2009, 05:08 AM
| #3 (permalink) | ||
| Official Greeter  |
Thank you harry, I shall take some time to look this over. You have confirmed a belief that I have that it isn't the mistakes we make, it how we recover from them that is important, and everyone makes mistakes not everyone can recover from their mistakes.
__________________ Wisdom: Where experience and knowledge combine and become one. "We are all one decision away from Stupid!!" Lamentations 3:22-23 "How often we sacrifice the permanent plans of God on the altar of immediate solutions" I have a very good memory, just short is all. | ||
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05-11-2009, 06:37 AM
| #4 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor |
So far so good. It's now time to rout the rear of the clock, it's the same as the front but without the hole. It isn't essential to rout the opening in the base, for one of my clocks I made a frame around the body, using lock mitre joints but of course any joints will do. The finish was intended to be red mahogany stain followed by a few coats of shellac or Danish oil however, after it looking fine on a scrap piece, it looked shocking on the clock, hence the paint finish. I'm going to see if a suitable decal is available to take away the plainness.
__________________ Harry The best advice that I can give a newcomer to routing is, learn to use the router mounted, this can be as simple as a board held in a vice, with the router firmly attached and a simple fence held with clamps, and when he/she feels competant and confident in it's use and is familiar with all aspects of safety, THEN, and only then proceed to learn how to use the router hand held. This is MY opinion, and may or may not coincide with that of the forum management, but is based on a lifetime of woodworking. http://members.dodo.com.au/~sharry02/ | ||
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05-11-2009, 06:56 AM
| #5 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor |
For some odd reason the photos. of making the base "went missing", found them in the camera download programme. Please let me know if shots seem out of order or don't make sense. I do hope that at least a few members will have a go at making one of these clocks, it really is a good exercise in making templates and plunge routing.
__________________ Harry The best advice that I can give a newcomer to routing is, learn to use the router mounted, this can be as simple as a board held in a vice, with the router firmly attached and a simple fence held with clamps, and when he/she feels competant and confident in it's use and is familiar with all aspects of safety, THEN, and only then proceed to learn how to use the router hand held. This is MY opinion, and may or may not coincide with that of the forum management, but is based on a lifetime of woodworking. http://members.dodo.com.au/~sharry02/ | ||
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05-11-2009, 07:29 AM
| #6 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor |
I think all the shots are here now, the last one is to illustrate other sizes and finishes which can be made by following these same instructions. Good luck and don't hesitate to ask if there is something that you don't quite understand.
__________________ Harry The best advice that I can give a newcomer to routing is, learn to use the router mounted, this can be as simple as a board held in a vice, with the router firmly attached and a simple fence held with clamps, and when he/she feels competant and confident in it's use and is familiar with all aspects of safety, THEN, and only then proceed to learn how to use the router hand held. This is MY opinion, and may or may not coincide with that of the forum management, but is based on a lifetime of woodworking. http://members.dodo.com.au/~sharry02/ | ||
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05-11-2009, 09:52 PM
| #7 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User   |
Excellent Harry, I remember you sent me a diagram for the template some time ago, but these shots really put it into plain english.  James | ||
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05-11-2009, 10:56 PM
| #8 (permalink) | ||
| Retired Moderator   Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Mountain Top Pennsylvania First Name: Glenmore Posts: 2,011  |
Harry you did it with this one great job. Really like the way the finish came out for you. Looks good to me. A+++ for the photo shoot.
__________________ Glenmore Days without wood working are days not worth getting up for. | ||
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05-11-2009, 11:10 PM
| #9 (permalink) | |||
| Registered User   |
Quote:
 Thanks for taking the time to post the step by step pics. With out the pics and instructions I would be lost. I am going to have surgey and will be unable to do woodworking 3 to 6 months. Once I am able to, I will attempt to build one.
__________________ Barry ~Is it measure twice and cut once, or cut twice and measure once?~ | |||
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05-11-2009, 11:20 PM
| #10 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User  Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Fort Worth,Texas USA First Name: George Posts: 2,443 |
Excellent presentation, Harry! You are a craftsman, gentleman and a scholar.
__________________ George For those who haven't already done so... PLEASE! PLEASE! Fill in your first name and location in your profile. | ||
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