challagan

Joe, I quess you could try to do that but in my opinion you need to have every thing held down and you should drill it thru the holes in the jig as it is a very precise set of holes. If their was just one it wouldn't be a big deal but since you have 2 that must match then I wouldn't. I didn't have alot of hang over on mine for clamps and the jig was more in the middle of the table so I kind of had to capture it in its place.

Joe, Yes I had to tweak it a bit. I had the bar wedged in to tight between the bit and the fence. I gave it a tiny bit of breathing room. Kind of hard to explain but it would slide out with a little help but not skate thru. Yes, all three jigs use the same holes for box joints anyway. The 3/8 and I think the 1/2 inch ( I dont' have the 1/2 inch) have an extra set of holes. These are used if you are going to do dove tails using the jigs. They can be drilled later when you are ready to do dove tails. I don't have intentions of using it for dovetails myself.

I asked the same thing Joe. The answer to this became very apparent after Doing the testing. For testing yes, for doing nice work..no. I found that the straight bits tore out both materials pretty well. I asked Bobj if the spiral will cut down the majority of the tear out and I quote BobJ here:
"yes, because it's a spiral cut unlike the standard router bit and it's sharper also plus the top of the router bit is a true cutter all the way across the top of the bit, that's where the rip will start from the norm"
Combine this with a push block or a scrap backer and this should do it but I think straight fluted bits will be troublesome. I would hate to do have some of my expensive hardwood stock chewed up in the process.

You could also go with just a 1/4 in jig. Spirals 1/4 in bits aren't much more than a straight bit. When you get to 3/8 inch they get expensive and start heading for 35.00-50.00 a bit. I didn't get the 1/2 set up cause I am not going to spend what they want for one of those bits and for my boxes I wouldn't want a 1/2 box joint anyway so I didn't get it.

Thanks Joe, I appreciate it. Hope I answered your questions.

Corey

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challagan

I would add one thing here. Of course you should always be aware of where your hands are, but with this jig you are work directly over the bit with the bit exiting out the back. I would use a push block thicker than the heighth of the bit and put a knob on it. Much the same as a daddo and you don't want your hand near that bit when it exits!

Corey

Joe Lyddon

Corey,

Yes, I would always be using scrap Push blocks... maybe even a leading piece of scrap to keep tear out to a minimum.

A nice large Push block would also help keep them Vertical too .

Thanks again... Super job!

Mike

Correct Joe. A large push block helps keep the pieces level, is much safer and reduces tear out. A piece of 4 x 4" that has been run over the bit so it works on the rail as a guide is the best push block. The wood has to be not just vertical for a good cut it has to pass the bit on a level plane.

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Joe Lyddon

Mike,

Very good points...

Have you noticed that Bob (of Bob & Rick), when he uses the jig, cuts each board by itself rather than clamping a bunch together and cutting all of them at one time?

I remember being told that cutting more at a time was more accurate and would ensure that they fit together better... Is that true?

ACV

I was considering attaching to a Miter Slot Adapter or one made out of Uhmw Polyethylene...and clamping the other side, as I really don't want to be drilling holes right now (my table is 24 x 32). Any thoughts on this that I might be missing?
Allison

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bobj3

Hi ACV
Can you take a snapshot of the "Miter Slot Adapter" in this case a picture is worth a 1000 words. and then edit your post to show the snapshot.

Bj

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bobj3

Hi ACV

The pictures are great and I wish I could help with this jig BUT I not seen this type b/4 maybe one of the other menbers can help with this one.

Bj

But it's a great router table setup

JUST A NOTE***the 1st snapshot looks like a drop and lock Tee slot device.
That's to say it has/needs a Allen flat screw that holds the jig in place.

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Router is still my name

That’s top of the line Jessem Mast-R-Lift XL table, I’ve drooled over that one profusely.

mpphoto

I must confess, if that were my table I probably wouldn't want to drill it either


A miter slot adapter and some clamps would work. The idea behind drilling the holes is to allow you to quickly drop the jig in the correct spot each time you use it. By attaching it via the miter slot you might have to tweak it a little each time you set it up but I see no problem with that.

Let us know how it works out.
Michael