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| | #11 | ||||
| Retired Moderator Supreme Forum King | Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
"yes, because it's a spiral cut unlike the standard router bit and it's sharper also plus the top of the router bit is a true cutter all the way across the top of the bit, that's where the rip will start from the norm" Combine this with a push block or a scrap backer and this should do it but I think straight fluted bits will be troublesome. I would hate to do have some of my expensive hardwood stock chewed up in the process. You could also go with just a 1/4 in jig. Spirals 1/4 in bits aren't much more than a straight bit. When you get to 3/8 inch they get expensive and start heading for 35.00-50.00 a bit. I didn't get the 1/2 set up cause I am not going to spend what they want for one of those bits and for my boxes I wouldn't want a 1/2 box joint anyway so I didn't get it. Quote:
Corey Last edited by challagan; 09-17-2006 at 10:29 AM. | ||||
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| | #12 |
| Retired Moderator Supreme Forum King | I would add one thing here. Of course you should always be aware of where your hands are, but with this jig you are work directly over the bit with the bit exiting out the back. I would use a push block thicker than the heighth of the bit and put a knob on it. Much the same as a daddo and you don't want your hand near that bit when it exits! Corey |
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| | #13 | |
| Banned Supreme Forum King | Quote:
Yes, I would always be using scrap Push blocks... maybe even a leading piece of scrap to keep tear out to a minimum. A nice large Push block would also help keep them Vertical too .Thanks again... Super job! | |
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| | #14 |
| Senior Moderator Supreme Forum King | Correct Joe. A large push block helps keep the pieces level, is much safer and reduces tear out. A piece of 4 x 4" that has been run over the bit so it works on the rail as a guide is the best push block. The wood has to be not just vertical for a good cut it has to pass the bit on a level plane.
__________________ Mike |
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| | #15 |
| Banned Supreme Forum King | Mike, Very good points... Have you noticed that Bob (of Bob & Rick), when he uses the jig, cuts each board by itself rather than clamping a bunch together and cutting all of them at one time? I remember being told that cutting more at a time was more accurate and would ensure that they fit together better... Is that true? |
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| | #16 |
| Registered User Dedicated Member | I was considering attaching to a Miter Slot Adapter or one made out of Uhmw Polyethylene...and clamping the other side, as I really don't want to be drilling holes right now (my table is 24 x 32). Any thoughts on this that I might be missing? Allison Last edited by ACV; 09-28-2006 at 10:54 AM. Reason: added pictures |
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| | #17 |
| Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King | Hi ACV Can you take a snapshot of the "Miter Slot Adapter" in this case a picture is worth a 1000 words. and then edit your post to show the snapshot.Bj ![]()
__________________ Workshop Projects Router Tables plans FREE, plus more http://www.absolutelyfreeplans.com/W...p_projects.htm RW Router Tip Archive www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html Floating Mortise & Tenon: A strong and Silent Joint |
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| | #18 |
| Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King | Hi ACV The pictures are great and I wish I could help with this jig BUT I not seen this type b/4 maybe one of the other menbers can help with this one. ![]() Bj ![]() But it's a great router table setup ![]() JUST A NOTE***the 1st snapshot looks like a drop and lock Tee slot device. That's to say it has/needs a Allen flat screw that holds the jig in place.
__________________ Workshop Projects Router Tables plans FREE, plus more http://www.absolutelyfreeplans.com/W...p_projects.htm RW Router Tip Archive www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html Floating Mortise & Tenon: A strong and Silent Joint Last edited by bobj3; 09-28-2006 at 11:27 AM. |
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| | #19 |
| Registered User Forum King | That’s top of the line Jessem Mast-R-Lift XL table, I’ve drooled over that one profusely. ![]() |
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| | #20 | |
| Registered User Forum Fanatic | Quote:
A miter slot adapter and some clamps would work. The idea behind drilling the holes is to allow you to quickly drop the jig in the correct spot each time you use it. By attaching it via the miter slot you might have to tweak it a little each time you set it up but I see no problem with that. Let us know how it works out. Michael | |
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