mpphoto

Funny you should say that Bj. I was doing all of my tests using scraps of 1/2" cherry and clamping two at a time. I played with the setup for a while using a 3/8" spiral bit. By the time I was done the bit seemed a little "tired". I should probably replace the bit anyway as I've had it for a while but I'm thinking with cherry I might run one board through at a time, especially with 1/2" stock.

Michael

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Joe Lyddon

Corey & All,

I received my set of 3 jigs and I think they are of SUPER quality!

I setup the 3/8 jig just like you did... to get in place & test & all... finally, drilling holes.
My top was too thick for their screws... luckily, I had some longer ones on hand. I don't find much slack for the fine adjustment tool though... tight fit.

It took a little tinkering... mine were always on the tight side... still might be a little too tight.

I cut up some strips for testing... ended up making 2 boxes about 3 x 3.25 x 3.25 and one 1.5 x 3 x 6... As it turned out, all of the testing wood was good enough to be made into something useful!! I like it when that happens... Will show pictures later... didn't take any in-process pics... just the finished stuff.

Your writeup helped me a lot...

Thank you very much!

challagan

Joe I am glad it worked out. If you want to put a little adjustability in it you could drill one out of the holes in your top slightly so you have about 1/32 of adjustability. If you do that then you need to block and clamp it once you get the right fit and you would have to do test fits each time to get it just right.

Corey

bobj3

Hi Guys

Just a hint/tip, don't drill the top out, and this is just my 2 cents, drill the jig out, if you have a cross vise for your drill press ,screw a block of wood to the back side of the jig about 1 1/2" wide clamp it into the vise and use a couter sink bit to make the hole a slot type counter sink slot, you can also do it will two boards clamped to the top side of the jig and on both side of the hole and do it free hand with care.
Do the counter sink 1st then drill out the hole.

This is for the 3/8" jig the others jigs (1/4" and the 1/2" ) just need to be drilled out to the next drill bit size (9/64") and they will work just fine.

Make the slot about 1/2" to 5/8" long , now when you want to use the jig for dovetails it's set up for it also plus now you can use the fine ajusting tool ( Bob's Hammer) to tap it into the right spot ,then lock it down.

Just a note***I use Allen Flat Head screws and tee nuts in my top and I also cut off the sharp points on the tee nuts and use glue to hold the tee nuts in place on the bottom side,a little dab of monkey glue and they are locked in forever.
The nasty sharp point on tee nuts just down like to go into most man made wood products,I cut them off to about 1/16" long with a pair of wire cutters to a new sharp point that way they hold but don't need to go into stock all the way.
Besure to use the right drill bit for the tee nuts (1/4-20 is a " N " if I recall that right) that way the barrel on the tee nut will pull in just right.

Bj

__________________
PodCast videos
RWS on YouTube

http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

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Bob J.

challagan

Good idea BJ!

Corey

Joe Lyddon

Here is a link to the photo album where you can see the results of testing
the Oak Park router box joint jigs...

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=842

Incidently, any of you can get setup and post images to the same site
as I have done...
It's FREE... No strings attached!
(and it's easy to use!)

challagan

They look good to me Joe!

corey

JohnnyTest

Got a 3/8" for Christmas and was wondering when you make box joint boxes, how do most of you attach the bottoms. I was thinking a dado would be cool, but that could be tricky that you don't come out to the end and see it when assembled. I guess a stop block would work, but I am weary lowering it onto a bit to get it started.

bobj3

Hi John

Putting the dado on all 4 parts can be a bit tricky but once you do it a time or two it's easy BUT you can attach the bottom part many ways.

One of them is to put in a rabbit cut on all 4 parts and just glue in the botom or top, one more way is to glue on the bottom and use a round over bit or a bead bit on the base so it looks like all in one box,one more way is to make the base over size and put on a rabbit cut so the sides slip down over the rabbit then put on a ogee bit and give it a nice cut.

Bj

.

__________________
PodCast videos
RWS on YouTube

http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

Bob J.

harrysin

Corey..........you're photo-shoot is EXACTLY the sort of thing that I have been on about, just look at the interest that it created, imagine if every day a member or two posted similar photos. taken during a project,descriptions are one thing, but a series of photographs................definitely worth a thousand words. Congrats. on you're fine work. Harry