Mounting an Oak Park Box Jig on Non Oak Park Table

challagan

Thanks Harry, I enjoy doing this kind of thing when I can. See my blog and the slotted hinge play by play. If I could ever get this kitchen remodel done I could spend alot more time with my boxes and junk in the shop!

Corey

P.S. thanks for the pics you posted on the scroll work template and holder!

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S Bolton

This thread or whatever you call it, is a very good lesson in setting up the Oak Park spacers. Last night I had a little time and actually set one up (partially)

I was surprised to see that my brass bar was exactly 1/4 inch per my caliper but my MCLS 1/4 inch bit was a little under.

So now my question. After following these directions, I am very close to a good joint, but it is a little tight. I was surprised that a router bit would be a little under 1/4 inch and I image some are exactly 1/4 inch and some vary.

With that in mind, is there "wiggle room" when you drill the 1/4 inch holes for the spacer? I see that router guys fine adjusting the bits with a hammer, which is amusing. But I am reluctant to drill the holes and not have room to move the fence slightly to account for varying sizes of router bits.

This is a great tutorial.

Thanks

Steve Bolton

S Bolton

well, now I see my question is answered later in the thread (is that what we call these things). Bob, you said this:

Hi Guys

Just a hint/tip, don't drill the top out, and this is just my 2 cents, drill the jig out, if you have a cross vise for your drill press ,screw a block of wood to the back side of the jig about 1 1/2" wide clamp it into the vise and use a couter sink bit to make the hole a slot type counter sink slot, you can also do it will two boards clamped to the top side of the jig and on both side of the hole and do it free hand with care.
Do the counter sink 1st then drill out the hole.

This is for the 3/8" jig the others jigs (1/4" and the 1/2" ) just need to be drilled out to the next drill bit size (9/64") and they will work just fine.

Make the slot about 1/2" to 5/8" long , now when you want to use the jig for dovetails it's set up for it also plus now you can use the fine ajusting tool ( Bob's Hammer) to tap it into the right spot ,then lock it down.

Just a note***I use Allen Flat Head screws and tee nuts in my top and I also cut off the sharp points on the tee nuts and use glue to hold the tee nuts in place on the bottom side,a little dab of monkey glue and they are locked in forever.
The nasty sharp point on tee nuts just down like to go into most man made wood products,I cut them off to about 1/16" long with a pair of wire cutters to a new sharp point that way they hold but don't need to go into stock all the way.
Besure to use the right drill bit for the tee nuts (1/4-20 is a " N " if I recall that right) that way the barrel on the tee nut will pull in just right.

Bj


I wish you could make an illustration with paint.net which you are good at, but I think I understand the concept.

Thanks. But any other tips are welcome. It looks to me like this would be a very good way to make drawers that are strong and attractive. Anyone doing that?

Steve Bolton

harrysin

Steve, I mounted mine on a cast iron table and enlarged the holes in the table. I have shakeproof washers under the wing nuts and I ensure are done up really tight.

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Harry

The best advice that I can give a newcomer to routing is, learn to use the router mounted, this can be as simple as a board held in a vice, with the router firmly attached and a simple fence held with clamps, and when he/she feels competant and confident in it's use and is familiar with all aspects of safety, THEN, and only then proceed to learn how to use the router hand held. This is MY opinion, and may or may not coincide with that of the forum management, but is based on a lifetime of woodworking.


http://members.dodo.com.au/~sharry02/

S Bolton

Thanks Harry.

sb

S Bolton

By shake proof washers, do you mean locking washers? How much should I enlarge the holes. They were going to be 1/4 inch.

Thanks

sb

bobj3

Hi Sb

I'm not sure what type Harry used but the norm would be the type in the pictures below..


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Attached Images

	Lock washer.jpg (16.1 KB, 43 views)
	Lock washer002.jpg (35.1 KB, 46 views)

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S Bolton

I can even buy those kind of washer locally. Instead of a 1/4 inch hole, how big should I make it.

SB

bobj3

Hi SB

Just about any hardware store/HD/Lowers etc. will have that type of lock washer, they are called a internal or ext. lock washer the norm..
They come in may sizes from a #4 to 1 1/4" ID the bigger the OD the better..

====

__________________
MLCS Instruction Pages & Videos
plus FREE MLCS Project Plans
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../instruct.html

Part Finder
find parts for your power tools
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/
Need some help replacing the parts
http://forums.ereplacementparts.com/

Many Router Tips from RWS
http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html
http://www.routerforums.com/email-ro...-members-only/

Router Tables ,Ready to use
http://www.rt1000.com/
http://rt1000.com/_wsn/page2.html

Bob J.

S Bolton

No problem getting the washers. I was wondering how big to make the hole?

SB