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Old 03-21-2008, 07:50 AM   #11
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Perhaps I'm over-building it. I have a load of #8x1.25" sheet metal screws that ought to work.
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Old 03-21-2008, 08:02 AM   #12
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This I just have to see Mike, some shots when it's finished?
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Old 03-21-2008, 08:57 AM   #13
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Hi Mike

I'm not to sure why you would want to put on edging on a MDF top.

If the top is plywood I would say yes but other than that I would just say just round it over ...and be done with it.

As you know MDF can't take any fastner that goes in the side(edge) of it. it may be just a small nail/brad it will always open the stock like a book, not at 1st. but it time you will see the smalll bump, MDF is funny stuff to work with...

But if you want to put a nice looking trim ,the banding bits is the way to go.
No nails needed, when the slot is put in just right and the banding bits will do that.
Or to say any matched set of router bits will do a great job as well.

The new banding bits they have out now are great for that job.
But if you have 2pcs top then you must use a bigger bit set unless you make the top pcs.just a bit bigger than the 2nd part to the top.

You can always go back after it's glued up and rabbit the 2nd part back to let you use the banding bits...on the top part of the table to put a nice looking Oak trim on...


http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...banding_anchor

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Attached Thumbnails
edging-table-edge-bits.jpg  edging-table-trim-mdf.jpg  

Last edited by bobj3; 03-21-2008 at 09:28 AM.
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Old 03-21-2008, 04:41 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3
Hi Mike

I'm not to sure why you would want to put on edging on a MDF top.

If the top is plywood I would say yes but other than that I would just say just round it over ...and be done with it.

As you know MDF can't take any fastner that goes in the side(edge) of it. it may be just a small nail/brad it will always open the stock like a book, not at 1st. but it time you will see the smalll bump, MDF is funny stuff to work with...
I guess I have to agree on the uselessness of it. I think I'll just joint the edges and be done with it.
Go ahead Bj. Bid on the bit set.
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Old 03-21-2008, 10:14 PM   #15
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I have a 90* V-groove bit set or "banding bits" from Grizzly, they work great. I do recommend that if you decide to purchase a similar set, get the 60* T&G set. You'll get more surface area for glue ups.
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Old 03-21-2008, 10:19 PM   #16
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Hi Mike

OK Will do, and I just did ,,,you know what they say you snooze you lose

Door bit sets are hard to find at the right price..



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Quote:
Originally Posted by AxlMyk
I guess I have to agree on the uselessness of it. I think I'll just joint the edges and be done with it.
Go ahead Bj. Bid on the bit set.
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Old 03-23-2008, 11:04 AM   #17
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Hi Mike

Just a update,, I did win the bit set and I did luck out ,I got it for 40.oo plus shipping from CANADA..

When I get it, I will post how to use the bit set for edge banding on the 1 1/2" thick MDF router table top... (2ea. 3/4" thick MDF with Oak side trim)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...TODAY.m238.lVI

==========
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Old 03-30-2008, 12:38 AM   #18
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Hi Mike

Just a small update

I said when I got the bit set I would do a cut or two showing how to use the bit for banding a router table or anything else that's 1 1/2" thick,,, I didn't use MDF stock in the snapshot below just some ruff cut 2 x 4 stock I had on the bench , but it's 1 1/2" thick and should show how it's done I also didn't want to waste some Oak so I used some of the same 2 x 4 for the banding and I sure you will see what I'm talking about,,


I should NOTE *** Just about any R & S matched router bit set can be used for banding a plywood board edge or shelft just need to use it backwards so to speak..



===============



Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3
Hi Mike

Just a update,, I did win the bit set and I did luck out ,I got it for 40.oo plus shipping from CANADA..

When I get it, I will post how to use the bit set for edge banding on the 1 1/2" thick MDF router table top... (2ea. 3/4" thick MDF with Oak side trim)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...TODAY.m238.lVI

==========
Attached Thumbnails
edging-table-0069.jpg  edging-table-0070.jpg  edging-table-0071.jpg  edging-table-0072.jpg  edging-table-0073.jpg  

edging-table-0074.jpg  edging-table-0075.jpg  

Last edited by bobj3; 03-30-2008 at 10:26 AM.
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Old 03-30-2008, 07:06 AM   #19
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Good demo Bj and a really good price for the cutters but other than for edging high quality furniture, I can't see a use for them, I certainly wouldn't go to that trouble for a router table, unless of course my wife allowed it in the lounge room, and what do you think the chances of that are?
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Old 03-30-2008, 10:18 AM   #20
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Hi HARRY

The set is made for making ENTRY DOOR RAIL & STILE SET


But they can be used for so many other jobs,like most router bits sets can.
Keep a open mind and you will see the other jobs they can do so many router bit sets can't do more than 3/4" thick stock and that can be a pain if one puts on a top layer to the main part of the top..
i.e. 3/4" thick top and a 1/4" thick hard board for just one setups..

You don't need to use the full bit ,you can just use 1/2 the thickest or to say just part of the cutters...

If you have priced a entry door it can blow you away or just a plain inside door can do the same , most are very cheap doors pine frame and some 1/8" thick plywood...
------------
how about a coffee table that looks like a nice router table that's low and has a place for a book or two on the shelf below and maybe a pull out for a tea pot

=========

Quote:
Originally Posted by harrysin
Good demo Bj and a really good price for the cutters but other than for edging high quality furniture, I can't see a use for them, I certainly wouldn't go to that trouble for a router table, unless of course my wife allowed it in the lounge room, and what do you think the chances of that are?

Last edited by bobj3; 04-09-2008 at 07:10 PM.
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