Router Forums banner

Cedar Strip Canoe Build

62K views 379 replies 28 participants last post by  bwilling 
#1 ·
A bit of background. I originally posted on the Router Forum to solve a problem I had with my router. As things developed I began to share what I was doing with my router and it was suggested that I begin a new thread focused on the building of a Cedar Strip Canoe.

The canoe that I am building is a redesign of the original Rob Roy double paddle canoe. It was originally built in 1866 and since that time many variations of the design were developed with changes to the length and beam. The original length of the Rob Roy was 15’ and included a lug sail and jib.

After looking at a few different offerings from various canoe and kayak builders I decided on a design offered by Sandy Point Boat Works. They named it ‘Little Rob’. The overall length is 14’ and still retains the original double paddle design with a partial fore and aft deck but no accommodation for sail.

After receiving the full size patterns and instructional CD’s I set to work first obtaining the required material for building the strong back (frame work that the canoe is built on). I also purchased MDF board for the stations (forms) verses plywood.

Once the strong back was built and the stations were cut out I positioned them on the strong back as per the plans.

I will include pictures with each post to show progress.
 

Attachments

See less See more
4
#2 ·
Next step was making the inner and outer stems out of white ash. I cut 0.25” x 0.75” strips. I steam bent them and clamped the on forms to dry.
Once dry I was able to glue the two of the strips together for both the inner and outer stems. These were then positioned on the stem forms.

Some of the pictures end up rotating themselves 90 degrees.
 

Attachments

#13 ·
Nice job on the stems. First time I did that I was thrilled with how they came out. And they are pretty easy to get into that perfect shape as well when you get to the fairing.

I notice that you have your centre lines marked nicely, good job there.

One thing I used to do (starting to come back to me now) when I mounted the stations, I put a piece of 1/4" plywood between the station and the strong back, just loosely, not glued.

When you are doing the fairing of the stations, you may need to shift one or more either up or down or even twist one slightly. That little space under the station gives you just that little bit of leeway that you may need. You clamp the station to the 2 x 2 that I think you have for the stations to fasten to first - then you do the rough fairing - then you can screw and glue the stations in place. You don't leave the plywood strips in there, that's just to give you fudging room.

Now for the big question...what do you have for battens?
 
#4 ·
Next I purchased rough cedar boards from Home Depot and Menards. I carefully selected knot free boards or almost knot free boards. I must have looked through 100+ boards to find enough good ones. I then ran all of the cedar boards through my planer to a dimension of 0.75”. After planning I cut strips of 0.25” thick. I found that I actually had enough strips to make two canoes so I will be storing some for a future project.
 

Attachments

#6 ·
Next important step was doing the final alignment of all of the stations from stem to stem. Once everything was square and aligned I stapled some strips to hold the stations firmly in place.

I then taped all of the edges of the stations so that once I started the gluing and stapling that the cedar strips would not adhere to the stations.
 

Attachments

#7 ·
Today I was able to finally use the router to put a bead on one edge of the cedar strips. It took some time to set the router table up but once set I was able to feed each strip through the router using the subsequent strip to push the previous strip through the router.

I also put the bead edge on the accent strips that I will be using. The accent strips were Mahogany and Aspen.

Tomorrow I plan to reset the router up to put the cove on the opposite edge.
 

Attachments

#8 ·
Great job, Russell. Love the build pictures...keep em coming. I'm sure you will have a bunch of us following your project. Thanks for taking the extra time to take the photos and post them.
 
#11 ·
OK, firstly thanks for starting the build thread. You're going to have lots of followers for this one.

First question. When you built that strong back, did you use winding sticks at both ends? If you're not sure what I'm talking about, then you didn't. It's quite important to do this.
 
#29 ·
The Strong Back that I built was designed by Sandy Point Boat Works. I have attached some additional pictures showing the design. This design is made up of three parts. The two ends and a middle connector. The top was 1" x 12". The main idea of the strong back is that it is straight and square which in turn will keep the boat straight and square.
 

Attachments

#12 ·
Next question...how many stations do you have athwartships? This is more a curiosity question than anything. I can't quite see them all at one time, looks like around 8 or so.

I see that you have put tape on the edges of the stations...dare I suggest that you take that off and put on some 6 mil poly instead. You're going to be using epoxy (right?) and that will stick to your blue tape.

Before you added the tape, did you use extremely good, long, one piece battens to bring the stations perfectly in line? This is absolutely necessary for a first class job.

More questions later...but the strips look pretty nice!
 
  • Like
Reactions: jj777746
#30 ·
There is a total of 9 stations plus the stems.

I put tape on the edges of all of the stations. The tape will keep the strips from being glued to the stations. The cedar strips that have a bead and cove interlock with each other. A bead of wood glue is used to glue them together. Once all of the strips are glued and stapled in place and the glue dries, you pull all of the staples and then begin the sanding process and preparation for the fiberglass and resin.
 
#14 ·
Russel..
thanks for the thread....

you have an addicted follower...
 
#18 ·
Hey Russell, thanks for deciding to take the time to document your build. I think down the road, you'll reference and link to this build as often as anyone else :) So many variations on a theme :) Folks around here will find this of interest if only for the various techniques and process's involved. Not the least of which is watching and following as a quality build progress's.
Sandy Point boat works is one of the sites I have in my bookmarks. Excellent resource and they have a great selection of plans to choose from. From there I like the Chum and the Prospector. What characteristics in a canoe were you looking for when you were searching for a plan? I REALLY like the idea of a solo canoe, but too many grandkids coming of age and too little time and money. So a tandem will be the choice. I'll assume that you will primarily be paddling flatwater river/lakes?
Sooooooooooo... are you happy with the plans/DVD supplied by Sandy Point? Did you go with the package (plans/bits/fibreglass/epoxy)? Do you recall just how much cedar
you purchased? The idea of getting enough materials for a 2nd build is something I"ve considered. Around here, cedar strip canoes go for a premium and appear to sell quite quickly. Selling one, would easily pay for the building of both.
To the point where you are now, what have been the hits and misses? Did you find anything particularly challenging?
 
  • Like
Reactions: jj777746
#36 ·
I only have high praise for Sandy Point Boat Works. I looked a many different sites that offered plans for both canoes and kayaks. What attracted my about Sandy Point was that I called them one day just to ask a few questions about the Little Rob. The owner Jack took the time to go over everything with me and told me I could call anytime.

In fact over the last few days I emailed Jack a question on scarfing and he answered my emails within hours.

As to why I chose the Little Rob. I looked at a number of different designs and for some reason I really liked how the solo, double paddle canoe looked. I liked the fuller deck both for and aft. My wife and I are both kayakers and we love being on the water but I wanted something made out of wood. For the last two years I have been taking a class each year at The Wooden Boat School. Guess I got bit by the wooden boat bug.

As to the kind of water I will be using the canoe on. I live in Wisconsin and about 20 minutes from Lake Michigan, which I have sailed on for many years. But where we live we have the North Branch of Milwaukee River running through our property. So we do a lot of kayaking on the river. We also have some small inland lakes nearby.

Back to Sandy River Boat Works. The CD's are excellent and the full sized plans were great. There is also a small booklet that covers the high points of the build. As far as finding anything difficult or a game stopper. So far I have not found anything beyond my abilities. I am not a seasoned wood worker so I am learning as I go. I would however recommend a book that is excellent and follows along with what Sandy Point Boat Works offers. The book is called CanoeCraft by Ted Moores. You can find used ones on Amazon for around $10. Well worth the investment. But I think the biggest plus to going with Sandy Point is the customer service and the ease of having questions answered.

Regarding what I bought as far as a kit, etc. I purchased the full size plans and the CD's. I also purchased the fiberglass and resin kit from Sandy Point (see picture). All of the wood I have thus far purchased from either Home Depot or Menards. And the Mahogany and Aspen and White Ash I was able to find at a local Fleet/Farm. I decided that I wanted to make all my strips and anything involving wood. I also plan to make my own seat and do the webbing. All of this might take me more time than buying a "Complete Kit", but I am enjoying this. And to steal a line from Jack at Sandy Point Boat Works - "Enjoy the Journey".

Hope all of this helps.
 

Attachments

#21 ·
Looking Great Russell! I built a couple of cedar strip canoes in high with a friend and we used the clear packing tape to protect our molds and it worked very well. I also spent 5 years restoring antique wooden boats for a living so I agree with the comment about how many clamps are enough., I sold my small clamps to my boss when I left the boat restoration and have regretted it ever since. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the build.

Regards Bob
 
#25 ·
I have to say I am quite amazed at all the comments and questions. Thank you all. I will begin to answer each question once I post my work for today.

I spent 4 to 5 hours routing the cove into the other edge of the strip. I believe I have around 300 8' strips so it took quite awhile. My hands and my back are quite grateful that this part of the build is behind me.

The pictures include the pile of completed strips, and two showing the cove. Somewhat difficult to see.

Next step will be to sort strips by color and begin scarfing strips together to form 15' to 16' strips. Scarfs will be done at different positions so that all scarfs don't end up in the same position on the boat. After I have the completed lengths of strips, I can then start the actual stripping process.
 

Attachments

#26 ·
like I said...
I'm hooked..
 
#31 ·
Russell, I understand the point of a strongback.

Did you check it with winding sticks? You would be surprised at what usually appears to be a perfect strongback is not always perfect.

Simply make two sticks about 3 feet long and make sure they are perfectly straight and square, somewhere around 2 x 2.

One needs to be a light colour, the other dark. Lay one across one end of your strong back, the other at the opposite end. Sight from one stick to the other and any error will be magnified.

Any error can be fixed with simple shimming. Personally I think this is a good way to ensure your base is off to a good start.
 
#33 ·
To answer your question regarding the alignment of the stations. Each station was screwed to a block of wood that would be used to screw the station to the strong back. I then ran a straight line string from stem to stem. I could then easily see if a station was out of alignment. To bring into alignment I would loosen one screw and put a wood shim under that side until it was aligned and then tighten the screw down.

The battens that I used to keep the stations square were just some of the cedar strips.
 

Attachments

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top