Best of both worlds

**bobj3** · 10-11-2008, 05:14 PM

This is more of How-To than a show n' tell..

This is how to put a Hoizontal router setup on standard router table and then you have the best of both worlds...all in one router cabinet setup..

You will see I use a standard 9" x 12" router mounting plate ,(the drop in type) in this way you can use one router for both jobs by just taking out some screws and then pop it back in the table top...
The Craftsman router work great for this setup because it comes with a chip pickup tube built it plus it's a snap to change out the bits or set them up..

Plate below, Alum. rails from MLCS..
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94331

http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-t...4-new-toy.html

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**bobj3** · 10-11-2008, 05:16 PM

Just one more snapshot

S Bolton · 10-11-2008, 06:07 PM

It is cool.

sb

AlanZ · 10-11-2008, 06:14 PM

you took the words right out of my mouth.

**harrysin** · 10-11-2008, 10:36 PM

You really are amazing Bob, you're starting to give me an inferiority complex. I always thought that I was handy with tools, but when I see some of the things that you come up with, well! As always, I can't leave you with only compliments, WHERE IS THE SAWDUST?
Also I'm sure that many members will be thinking that your shop is as big as their whole house!

**bobj3** · 10-12-2008, 06:58 AM

Thanks Guys

Harry , I always pickup the saw dust it gives me time to rethink what I want to come out with,, just like the router mounting plate I was going to send off for some 3/8" thick plastic stock or run down to the store and buy a big piece then I was cleaning up and I looked up at the wall and I said I have what I need hanging on the wall, why buy more when you have it on hand

Plus it may make it essayer for someone else to do the same thing.. I know many use the standard 9" x 12" router mounting place in the router table, and by just drilling some holes in it they have it done...

I know many will say but I don't have the ALum. rails but that's not a big deal they can be made out of Hard wood stock..it just takes a tee slot or two that can be put in with a router bit ( key hole bit or a tee slot bit
and a rabbit ( REBATE ) edge....

I don't need two Horz.router set ups but I'm sure it will come handy,,like for putting in slots with slot cutters in the bottom side of drawers and boxes when I have the other one set up to make panels...,etc.

Some will say why do I need a Horz.router setup, any time you need to use a tall fence on router table you will see why they are so great to have.

=======

Quote:

Originally Posted by harrysin

You really are amazing Bob, you're starting to give me an inferiority complex. I always thought that I was handy with tools, but when I see some of the things that you come up with, well! As always, I can't leave you with only compliments, WHERE IS THE SAWDUST?
Also I'm sure that many members will be thinking that your shop is as big as their whole house!

**bobj3** · 10-12-2008, 04:15 PM

Hi Mark

You ask what is the white stuff called ? ,I used 3/4" thick UHMW to make the handle, it's been drilled out and tap to 1/2-13 thread, but I did use two nuts to lock it in place also drilled and tap the hole for the knob.
It doesn't need to be to big, it only needs to lift about 15 lbs. max when the router is in place..
One turn on the grank and it will lift it 1/8" ..

What Is UHMW?
(Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene)
http://www.ptreeusa.com/uhmwproducts.htm

The plate is 3/8" thick, but it is also 1/4" thick around the outside edge of the plate about 1/2" wide rabbit all the way around it,...so it can drop into a router table opening...if needed.

I used 1/2-13 stainless steel rod because I had some in the shop it can be just steel plated but I would not use steel that is not plated.

The ALum. rails I got from <MLCS> ,they are not a listed item for sale, I had to call them and ask if they had some for replacement parts and they said NO but he had one set in a box that was in a return item warehouse that he would sale me for 75.oo dollars a pair so I order them, took 4 days at free shipping to get them ...I just got lucky I guess..

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ter_table.html

I did forget to show the hold down feather board screw hole in the base plate, it's just a 5/16-18 stud that screws into the lifting block and into the mounting plate, dead center of the top of the plate, I used a Allen set screw so I could remove it if I need to ...

I did need to shim the plate just a little bit ( .030" ) so it will lined up with the Alum rails, I used metal banding material that is 3/4" wide, I got the banding stock out of the trash can so to say it's a freebie item, I did use a dot of super glue to hold it in place..I'm almost sure the plastic banding material will work also, it's getting hard to find the black steel type.
I use the banding material on many projects ( inlay work and hinges ,etc.) so it's worth the time to pull it out of the trash can and put some in the shop...

*** just a note you can punch holes in the plastic type easy but it's hard to put holes in the steel type..

*********
*********

I did go back and added a snapshot of the hold down feather board, made out of 3/4" thick cherry...
and to show the shims..
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**bobj3** · 10-14-2008, 07:02 PM

**bobj3** · 10-26-2008, 12:34 AM

HI Mark

Here's a snapshot or two of the door panels made on the new Horz.router table setup, they are MDF with 3/4" and 1/2" thick stock, the small one is a 1/2" thick drawer front...

Note *** when using 3/4" thick MDF stock the bit will lift/chip out the top edges of the panel, just like pages of a book, so it will take a pass with a bit to clean up the top edges..using the 1/2" thick MDF stock will not have this type of error...

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S Bolton · 10-26-2008, 09:11 AM

Why even own those scary panel raising bits that are vetical? Horizontal rocks.

sb

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