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| This is a discussion on Minimum bit depth within the Router Bits - Types and Usage forums, part of the Routers category; Just wonderring if there is a minimum depth the bit comes out below the fixed ... |
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| | #1 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
Just wonderring if there is a minimum depth the bit comes out below the fixed base. What I mean is, if i am buying a 1/2 diameter straight bit, why would I buy something with a depth of 1/2" when I could by one that is 1 1/2 for example. I am assuming using your plunge base you could then go from any depth between 0 to 1 1/2" (not planning to route anything 1 1/2 at a time but you get the picture). Just wonderring, on a fixed base if you chucked a 1 1/2 deep straight bit on it if there was a minimum distance the bit would be below the surface. If not why limit yourself by buying a 1/2" depth bit? | ||
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| | #2 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor ![]() |
The shorter the cutter the more rigid it is therefore it can be fed that much harder without fear of breaking. I tend to only use long cutters where they are necessary for the job in hand.
__________________ Harry The best advice that I can give a newcomer to routing is, learn to use the router mounted, this can be as simple as a board held in a vice, with the router firmly attached and a simple fence held with clamps, and when he/she feels competant and confident in it's use and is familiar with all aspects of safety, THEN, and only then proceed to learn how to use the router hand held. This is MY opinion, and may or may not coincide with that of the forum management, but is based on a lifetime of woodworking. http://members.dodo.com.au/~sharry02/ | ||
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| | #3 (permalink) | ||
| Retired Moderator ![]() |
Bill, there is a need for both long and short cutters. Since most people want the maximum value they can get from a bit I suggest buying something in the 1-1/2 to 2" range to start with. This will let you do more jobs. As your bit collection increases adding a short bit could improve accuracy. I am not a fan of bit extenders, I would rather see a longer bit.
__________________ Mike Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you. | ||
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| | #4 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
Thanks guys, and yes Mike economy to begin with is the key here. Just thought to start i would go with around 1 1/2 . And really, to start I would feel more comfortable going with a couple of shallow passes to get to my desired depth anyway. Thanks again. But still, one part of my question to you guys is; on a fixed base router will a 2" long bit go right up inside the housing and leave no bit exposed below the base or is there a max. depth inside the router? | ||
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| | #5 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
I agree, it's best to have a variety of lengths. | ||
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| | #6 (permalink) | |||
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Fort Worth,Texas USA First Name: George Posts: 2,442 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
__________________ George For those who haven't already done so... PLEASE! PLEASE! Fill in your first name and location in your profile. | |||
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| | #7 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
ahhh. so the combo i purchased with both fixed and plunge base was a wise one. Thanks. Very excited to start making some sawdust. First up... building my workbench. | ||
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| | #8 (permalink) | |||
| Forum Contributor ![]() |
Quote:
Yet another reason George to support my opinion that fixed base routers should be delegated to the museum. Plunge routers as YOU know George are far superior.
__________________ Harry The best advice that I can give a newcomer to routing is, learn to use the router mounted, this can be as simple as a board held in a vice, with the router firmly attached and a simple fence held with clamps, and when he/she feels competant and confident in it's use and is familiar with all aspects of safety, THEN, and only then proceed to learn how to use the router hand held. This is MY opinion, and may or may not coincide with that of the forum management, but is based on a lifetime of woodworking. http://members.dodo.com.au/~sharry02/ | |||
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| | #9 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor ![]() |
"I am not a fan of bit extenders" By golly Mike, we are in complete agreement!
__________________ Harry The best advice that I can give a newcomer to routing is, learn to use the router mounted, this can be as simple as a board held in a vice, with the router firmly attached and a simple fence held with clamps, and when he/she feels competant and confident in it's use and is familiar with all aspects of safety, THEN, and only then proceed to learn how to use the router hand held. This is MY opinion, and may or may not coincide with that of the forum management, but is based on a lifetime of woodworking. http://members.dodo.com.au/~sharry02/ | ||
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| | #10 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor ![]() |
Hi Harry I must disagree with you and Mike,,extenders do have a place in the shop, so many router bits are just to short ,,( dish cutter for just one of many) many will pull the bit up and to far out from the collet to get around that error ,the Collet Extension will do the job SAFE I use the router table dovetail jig alot and the bits are longer than the norm but they are just to short most of the time...many of the strait bits come longer but most of the other router bits just come in one size, then if you add a template or a sled the bit must be longer in order to do the job.. and safe..Router Collet Extension Router Collet Extension and review ==========
__________________ MLCS Instruction Pages & Videos plus FREE MLCS Project Plans http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../instruct.html Part Finder find parts for your power tools http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ Need some help replacing the parts http://forums.ereplacementparts.com/ Many Router Tips from RWS http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html http://www.routerforums.com/email-ro...-members-only/ Bob J. | ||
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