1/4 Inch to 1/2" bit shank adapters - Router Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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Default 1/4 Inch to 1/2" bit shank adapters

Hi

I know its not a good solution - but my routers only accept 1/4 Inch shanks - via a 1/4 inch collets that does not seem to be replaceable.

Is there any shank adapters made to do this??
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010, 01:29 PM
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Hi Rich

Well yes and no , but you can make your own easy with the item below if you have a lathe or have a mate do it for you..I made one just for that type of job and it works very well..

Just turn it down to a TRUE (> .2501---1/4" size.

#9465 For 1/2" shank bits 1-3/16" $42.90 $29.95

MLCS Router Collet Extension and Review


I will note the last time I suggested to do this I got a lot flack from the members but it works well.. and I don't think I would use it for the big panel bits..

Also when you use the new one be sure it's all the way the 1/4" collet ,right down to the bottom this will help with run out and less chance of snapping off the 1/4" shank.. but I'm sure you know what it takes to snap off a 1/4" shank with no play in it.. ( about 85,000 lbs. psi )

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Originally Posted by rich911 View Post
Hi

I know its not a good solution - but my routers only accept 1/4 Inch shanks - via a 1/4 inch collets that does not seem to be replaceable.

Is there any shank adapters made to do this??
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Last edited by bobj3; 08-25-2010 at 11:32 PM.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rich911 View Post
I know its not a good solution...

Rich,

Trust your gut. There is a reason they aren't on the market. There are a bunch of decent routers out there around $100, and even more used ones for sale for less.

Save your pennies, and use a tool designed for the job.

Just my $0.02,

Doug
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks,

Sounds like a good suggestion.

I have a lathe - and could do the turning if the the shank is not harden steel.

Do you know if you have to use a lathe grinder to do the turning down - or if a std tool steel cutter bit will do the turning down okay - on the 1/2 inch extension shank.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010, 02:07 PM
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Hi

It's hard but a stantard carb.cutting bit will do the job just fine..
You will need to sacrifice one of your old 1/2 "shank bits, to lock it in the lathe for a true turning, using the extension as a holding device
..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rich911 View Post
Thanks,

Sounds like a good suggestion.

I have a lathe - and could do the turning if the the shank is not harden steel.

Do you know if you have to use a lathe grinder to do the turning down - or if a std tool steel cutter bit will do the turning down okay - on the 1/2 inch extension shank.

"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
http://www.routerforums.com/search.php?searchid=944097



Last edited by bobj3; 08-25-2010 at 07:24 PM.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010, 10:52 PM
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If you're seriously contemplating doing this I recommend wearing a hard steel jock strap and titanium armor. Should that extender fail by brittle fracture at the 1/4" to 1/2" transition while spinning like a bat out of Hades, those cutters will do what they do well.

Have you noticed that they are not offered commercially? Ask yourself why that may be.

I'm not saying it won't or can't work. If the extender is well balanced, the bit is well balanced, whatever runout they do have are aligned to cancel and you don't press it too hard and...

But if...

Is it worth it to you?

This is just one guy's opinion.. a guy who really likes having all his parts right where they are...
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-16-2015, 04:28 PM
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Default A little bit old

I know this was first posted in 2010 but I just ordered the extension. However, I do not intend to turn it down but rather machine a 1/2"-20 nut to fit on the end with a machined press fit collar to accept the extension and using a TIG to slightly tack it on three spots but not enough to take out any of the hardening.
Once I have my mind set, I usually don't change it but I am open to anyone who sees this as the wrong thing to do. At my age I would like to keep what body parts I have left. I intend to put it on my radial arm saw, hence the need for the 1/2" - 20 nut.
I would like to think that in the last few years, someone might have some more experience with better in site.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-16-2015, 06:15 PM
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Warren; why? A Bosch 1617EVSPK will set you back a couple hundred bucks...you get both a plunge and s fixed base included. It's time tested and backed by excellent customer service and quality. What's your continuing good health worth?
As Jim says why are you reinventing the wheel?
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-16-2015, 06:39 PM
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Warren, the bearings on your saw are not designed to take the type of side pressure this would develop. Router bits are designed to run at 20K rpm not the 3K rpm of a saw. I would not do this. If you want to do horizontal routing spend the money for an MLCS horizontal table and use a router with it.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-16-2015, 06:57 PM
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Montgomery Ward and I think Sears had radial arm saws that had a faster spinning arbor at the back end for routing. It never caught on because of all the limitations I would imagine. Save your money on something that is very "iffy" at best and use it towards something that is time tested and proven.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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