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Router Bits - Types and Usage Discussion area for the wide variety of router bits available today. Get help with the selecting the proper bit for your project, usage, set up and other tips and tricks.


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Old 12-30-2007, 10:55 PM   #1
Keyser Soze
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Default Looking for A Certain Bit....

I am working on a little side project and am in need of some help.

I am making up 4 or 6 little shelves (approx 8" x 8" x 7/8") and they are going to be mounted on a strip of wood (8" wide x 1" tall x 1" thick) against the wall. I'd like for these shelves to attach to the mounting strip yet be easily removed... ideally they would slide off of the wall mount (left or right).

Is there a bit that would give me a keyhole-type profile to make this work?

I know I've seen something that would accomplish this but my mind is a bit frazzled these days...

Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-30-2007, 11:17 PM   #2
bobj3
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HI Keyser

I would suggest using a dovetail bit,,,

They will let you hide the joint plus it will slip on or off easy..

You can also make a French Cleat hanger build into the back of the shelve

=========
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyser Soze
I am working on a little side project and am in need of some help.

I am making up 4 or 6 little shelves (approx 8" x 8" x 7/8") and they are going to be mounted on a strip of wood (8" wide x 1" tall x 1" thick) against the wall. I'd like for these shelves to attach to the mounting strip yet be easily removed... ideally they would slide off of the wall mount (left or right).

Is there a bit that would give me a keyhole-type profile to make this work?

I know I've seen something that would accomplish this but my mind is a bit frazzled these days...

Thanks in advance.
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http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
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Last edited by bobj3; 12-30-2007 at 11:21 PM.
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Old 12-30-2007, 11:56 PM   #3
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Thanks Bob-

So - dumb question but are there 2 bits for the dovetail or just one and the cuts are staggered?

I'm a noob when it comes to woodworking. We don't have dovetails in metal work
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Old 12-31-2007, 12:19 AM   #4
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Hi Keyser

Many types of dovetail bits and many sizes,see below, but the one I would use would be the 1/2" ,14 deg. one, it takes to parts a male(pin) and female(pocket) the pin would slide inside the pocket, called a blind or sliding dovetail joint..both joints can be put in with one router bit.

A very easy joint to put in the stock
OR
You can use the Sliding Tee-Slot joint

45° Wall Bracket Dovetail
http://pricecutter.com/product.asp?pn=P13-2242

T-Slot Router Bits
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops..._cutter_Anchor


http://www.cmtusa.com/store/index1.i...routerbits.jpg

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/qt-1.htm
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/ss-p1-1.htm

By the way you do have dovetails in metal working, take look at your metal drill press vise..


===========
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyser Soze
Thanks Bob-

So - dumb question but are there 2 bits for the dovetail or just one and the cuts are staggered?

I'm a noob when it comes to woodworking. We don't have dovetails in metal work
Attached Thumbnails
looking-certain-bit-dovetail-joint-.jpg  looking-certain-bit-wall-dovetail.jpg  
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http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

Bob J.


Last edited by bobj3; 12-31-2007 at 11:46 PM.
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Old 12-31-2007, 08:09 AM   #5
Charles M
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Hi Stephen,

Many manufacturers offer variants on this bit:

http://www.freudtools.com/images/PRODUCT/large/162.jpg
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Old 12-31-2007, 10:43 AM   #6
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Hi BJ,

Just a quick note on your dovetail and T-joint drawings.

When I first looked at it, the T-joint confused me for a second (I used to be a draftsman so it only took a second). The reason it confused me were the extra lines showing up. The wood with the dovetail and T-joint are one piece I believe, just wondering if it's possible with the program you draw with to remove the lines between the joint and the piece of wood it's attached to? The dovetail joint has one extra line in it and the T-joint has 2 extra lines in it.

For someone that hasn't seen these types of joints it might be a bit hard to tell what's going on. Not a criticism as you are one of the most helpful people on this site and are much appreciated by all, I'm sure of that. Just hoping to clarify the picture a bit.

Thanks BJ,

Ed.......:-)
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Old 12-31-2007, 11:19 AM   #7
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HI Ed

Thanks ,I did go back and clean it up a just a bit to make it easyer to get.

========
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PodCast videos
RWS on YouTube

http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

Bob J.

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Old 12-31-2007, 11:35 AM   #8
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Nice job BJ......

Ed......:-)
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Old 12-31-2007, 12:01 PM   #9
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Thanks gents - I appreciate the feedback. I think the "T" joint looks like a winner.... may do what I need.

So if my material is 7/8" poplar what would be a good size for the joint? Is there a rule of thumb to follow?

I am also going to add in a rare Earth magnet or two into the assembly to lock it into place while mounted. There's something about magnets....

Oh and as far as dovetails in metal working... that was sort of tongue in cheek. My typical response is: WELD IT DAMMIT!

Uh - there's no way to weld wood is there???
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My screen name is Keyser Söze (pronounced /ˈkaɪzɚ ˈsoʊzeɪ/) and is a fictional character in the 1995 film The Usual Suspects.

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Old 12-31-2007, 12:12 PM   #10
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You CAN weld wood....but it renders it virtually useless....

That is, once it's heat has been disipated through a fire, it becomes rather useless.

Ed.......:-)
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