centering router on workpiece

[locoboy]

Hi Guys,

Is there such a thing as a pointed bit that fits in the router that you can plunge down to the face of the workpiece to ensure your fence / guide are in the right place then swap out for the correct cutting bit?

Seems like quite a simple idea to me, i could have made use of it yesterday when freehand routing with the router fence.

Im sure there is such a thing out there but what's it called?

[jjciesla]

There are a few ways to do it but to answer your question with respect to bits there is what is called a VEE Groove bit that is shaped as a V with 90 or 60 degree included angle and several cutting diameters. If you want more of a point at the tip there is the POINT CUTTING roundover bits in several cutting diameters. I have a Whiteside with the P/N 1574. Others are: Carving Liner (very pointy), Panel bits with a plunge point or a hole & flush trim bit. If you want to forgo the cost of a new bit how about sharpening a wood dowel rod in a pencil rotary pencil sharpener or a metal rod on a lathe.

[bobj3]

HI locoboy

Just one more way
I got one and I did not think it would be that great but it is it has lights and a laser cross hair lines ...to get it right on .. I now have my battery type PC router mounted on it and it works great..

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ter_Plate.html


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Originally Posted by locoboy

Hi Guys,

Is there such a thing as a pointed bit that fits in the router that you can plunge down to the face of the workpiece to ensure your fence / guide are in the right place then swap out for the correct cutting bit?

Seems like quite a simple idea to me, i could have made use of it yesterday when freehand routing with the router fence.

Im sure there is such a thing out there but what's it called?

[jjciesla]

That's right Bob! I fogot about that. I have the Laser plate from MLCS, #9098. Works good.

[Hamlin]

Shame this doesn't fit the Makita 3612C.

[harrysin]

Colin, I'm not sure why you would need such a device, mentioning fence sounds like you're talking about table routing, in which case it would be of no help. In the 34 years that I have been plunge routing, I have never needed such a device, could you give an example of where you would use it that conventional methods would be inferior.

[bobj3]

HI Harry

I was not to sure if it was a router table or a plunge router so I took a shot.

Did you add a light to your router ?, it's almost the same but it has one more item ,the laser cross lights... all on a off set plate ...

Like I said I was not to sure about it but once I used it, I like it..

I got the tip from you on the light but I didn't want to glue one on, I know it would be a lot cheaper but you know me..

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Originally Posted by harrysin

Colin, I'm not sure why you would need such a device, mentioning fence sounds like you're talking about table routing, in which case it would be of no help. In the 34 years that I have been plunge routing, I have never needed such a device, could you give an example of where you would use it that conventional methods would be inferior.

[locoboy]

Thanks for th suggestions guys.

Harry,
I was using a 12.7mm diameter straight bit to route a mortice in a bit of 40mm wide timber.

I wanted the mortice to be bang in the middle of the timber.

I had marked the centre of the timber and 6.35mm (as close as i could) either side of the centre line to outline the edge of the mortice.

I set the guide on the router base to the 13.65mm from the edge of the cutter. as you can imagine this is quite hard to measure with a steel ruler.

It would have been easier to put a pointed bit in the router and adjust the guide with the router on the workpiece, clamp it up then swap the bits over and route away.

Or is there an easier way of doing this with just a router and an ajustable base mounted guide / fence?

[bobj3]

HI locoboy

Just a butt in post

This is what I do from time to time if I want to get in right on.

I use a center punch and mark the spot with the center punch chuck up the brass pin/counter sink/60 deg.router bit clamp the router in place and replace the brass pin with the router bit, set the edge guide fence and it's set to put the slot right in the center of the board..


JUst a note *** you can make your own brass line up pin very easy,,just use some 1/4" brass stock/steel stock and chuck it up into the battery type drill then take it to the grinder and put the sharp point on it..


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Originally Posted by locoboy

Thanks for th suggestions guys.

Harry,
I was using a 12.7mm diameter straight bit to route a mortice in a bit of 40mm wide timber.

I wanted the mortice to be bang in the middle of the timber.

I had marked the centre of the timber and 6.35mm (as close as i could) either side of the centre line to outline the edge of the mortice.

I set the guide on the router base to the 13.65mm from the edge of the cutter. as you can imagine this is quite hard to measure with a steel ruler.

It would have been easier to put a pointed bit in the router and adjust the guide with the router on the workpiece, clamp it up then swap the bits over and route away.

Or is there an easier way of doing this with just a router and an ajustable base mounted guide / fence?

[harrysin]

How about setting a dial vernier or digital calliper to 6.35mm and scratching a line from each edge, then going over the lines with a sharp pencil. I've used this method on many occasions. I'm not sure that I understand exactly how you're going about the routing, it sounds like you intend to sit the router on the 40mm strip using the side fence to guide it. If this is so, stop right there, the router would have insufficient support. This is a typical job where skis would be the order of the day, but failing that, this simple set-up that I posted a few days ago would be the better way to carry out your project after marking as I suggested.