Hardwood flooring tongue and groove - Router Forums
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-16-2013, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Default Hardwood flooring tongue and groove

I am a lumber inspector at one of the largest sawmills in Michigan. I know ALOT about wood but little about woodworking.

I purchased some rustic soft maple that I handpicked myself out of our
latest runs. At work I ripped it to width and planed it to 3/4"at for flooring. I know
soft maple has little shock resistance and will dent but this floor is for a remote cabin in Michigan's upper peninsula.



I have around 900 lineal feet to tongue and groove on my router table. What type of bit does somebody suggest for this job? Any other tips would be greatly appreciated!
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-16-2013, 10:49 PM
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Scott welcome to the form
There are a number of manufactures that make match sets of tongue and groove bits
Here is one rockler Rockler Flooring 2-Piece Router Bit Set - Amazon.com

Last edited by Semipro; 06-16-2013 at 10:50 PM. Reason: N
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-16-2013, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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How well do bits generally last? 900' is quite a big job.
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-16-2013, 11:09 PM
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The ones I told you about are carbide tip bits they should be able to do the job, and they can be sharpened. The router you use would be my biggest concern that many feet of lumber you will need a good unit ( up in the 3 hp range )and you will need router table with enough table surface to be able to control the length of the lumber
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-16-2013, 11:13 PM
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Hi Scott and welcome to the forum. You have a few choices to make. You can go for square tongue and groove like this set Router Bits, Saw Blades, CNC Router Bits, Shaper Cutters & More . Or you could go with tapered fit which is more common for flooring like is near the bottom of this page. Router Bits, Saw Blades, CNC Router Bits, Shaper Cutters & More

You will want to register the back side of your floor boards on the router table when you groove them and mark either which side goes up or which side goes down. There is a chance that the boards may not be be even from board to board after they have been laid for a while, so when you know that they have stabilized you will need to sand the surface flat.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-16-2013, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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I have a good enough router but will need to make the table longer. What lengths should I cut my stock to? Right now they range from 6-10', mostly 10'.

Chuck, what do you mean by "register?" I have in mind the faces that I want up because of their character. Are you saying that I will have to mark the better face so they will all install the same way?

Money is an issue so I will likely have to go with a single piece bit.
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 12:04 AM
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Scott, most flooring has a relief in the center of the bottom. I do not remember the reason for this but it was important for some reason. As far as the bits go I suggest you purchase Whiteside for this job. For 900' you will need at least two sets of bits and I would suggest three sets and returning the third set if not needed. If you want to try and get by on one set them you should buy a quality sharpening set like this one from Trend. (about $50) If you are near Detroit come see me and I will show you how to use it. You can email me by clicking on my name.
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 12:12 AM
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2 PC 1 2" SH Wedge Joint Tongue Groove Router Bit Set | eBay

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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 12:14 AM Thread Starter
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Does the shape of the groove matter much? Square or not?

Go wings!! I'm about 20min west if Lansing.
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 12:21 AM Thread Starter
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As far as installation goes.... are there bits that are specifically made for flooring for nailing?
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