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**Mike** · 03-05-2007, 02:50 PM

We all know that attaching table tops made from solid wood can be tricky. Wood expands and contracts so you must allow for movement of the top while still holding it securely to the table. There are two new types of router bits to make this job easy. They are called screw slot cutting bits and are available for either flathead or trusshead wood screws. These bits are available from CMT for $41 each with 1/2" shanks and Rockler for $21 each with 1/2" shanks. I expect to see other manufacturers selling them soon.

**challagan** · 03-05-2007, 08:09 PM

I believe Eagle is selling them in their new catalog as well Mike.

Corey

**harrysin** · 04-06-2007, 06:09 AM

I was just browsing the forum,as one does from time to time, when I noticed a post by Mike dated March 5th. regarding fitting table tops. The method that I use is as shown, using Z clips (zed). It's so easy to rout a 1/8th" groove into the rails prior to assy. With the top upside down the frame is centred then fixed into position, what could be easier than that? I'm waiting for several replies with even easier methods! By the way, I did NOT make this particular coffee table but it was easier to take the shot in the warm family room rather than go into the shed on this chilly Easter Friday evening. Cheers for now, Harry

**bobj3** · 04-06-2007, 09:28 AM

Just one more way to do it .

I like to use the corner type, it will hold the top down and sq.the cabinet up all with one small scrap block

I make up 40 or 50 of the "hardwood clamping blocks) at one time then just put them in plastic bag, then I have them on hand when I need a hand full when I need to hold down a top.

Bj

**harrysin** · 04-07-2007, 06:38 AM

I like the idea Bob as per the centre pict. the first one puzzles me, why does it need pocket holes when just one screw as per centre pict. is just fine and the third pict. is also a puzzle, what is the centre "bush" in aid of? apologies to George, but I must sign off as CuriousHarry!

**bobj3** · 04-07-2007, 09:01 AM

Hi Harry

The picture of the white corner block works the same way as the 3rd. picture, it's holds the sides and the back or front of the cabinet/table/workbench/etc. sq. , then you drive in 2 pocket screws to hold the cabinet parts together using the pocket holes with just a bit of glue in the slots, then once it in place and the top is put on you drive a screw using the hole in the center of the corner block, this will hold the top in place and keep the cabinet sq. all with just one block.

I like to off set the tongue "off center" this will let you flip the corner block over to get it just below the edge of the cabinet parts,this will let you pull the top down if you have a small gap in the parts. (the off set is only a 1/8" the norm)
The corner blocks can be anything you have in the shop (scrap) unlike the ones in the 3rd. picture.

The push block is used to put on the Tongue on the corner block, because the block is cut on a 45deg. it's a bit hard to hold it true to the fence when you make the pass by the router bit, but the push block will make it safe and easy to make the corner blocks.

I like to use the set below because it will let me use up to 1 1/4" thick stock, the norm is 3/4" max thick stock when using T & G sets, I also use the CMT set all the time because it will put in a 1/4" deep slot/tongue and the norm is 7/16" deep slot but both sets work well.

MLCS Two Piece Tongue & Groove Set below (OK set below▼
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ue_groove.html
Also this one at a lower price
Tongue & Groove Assembly, same web page

Grizzly T & G set ▼ below ( one arbor/shank type) with shim washers.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1665

CMT set below ( the best ▼
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/item....03004&d=79&b=1
With the bearing below you can put in the 7/16" deep slots if needed for
cabinet door frames....

will fit the same arbor....
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/item....698ZZ&b=3&d=79

Bj

03-05-2007, 02:50 PM	#1
Mike Senior Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Detroit, Michigan USA Posts: 3,169 View Mike's Gallery	Report This Post! Attaching table tops We all know that attaching table tops made from solid wood can be tricky. Wood expands and contracts so you must allow for movement of the top while still holding it securely to the table. There are two new types of router bits to make this job easy. They are called screw slot cutting bits and are available for either flathead or trusshead wood screws. These bits are available from CMT for $41 each with 1/2" shanks and Rockler for $21 each with 1/2" shanks. I expect to see other manufacturers selling them soon. __________________ Mike
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03-05-2007, 08:09 PM	#2
challagan Retired Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Iowa Posts: 3,985 View challagan's Gallery	Report This Post! I believe Eagle is selling them in their new catalog as well Mike. Corey __________________ My Carving Website: The Iowa Woodcarver http://iowacarver.tripod.com/ My Shop Website - Woodshop 51503 http://woodshop51503.tripod.com/
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04-06-2007, 06:09 AM	#3
harrysin Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Western Australia Posts: 3,040 View harrysin's Gallery	Report This Post! Fitting table tops I was just browsing the forum,as one does from time to time, when I noticed a post by Mike dated March 5th. regarding fitting table tops. The method that I use is as shown, using Z clips (zed). It's so easy to rout a 1/8th" groove into the rails prior to assy. With the top upside down the frame is centred then fixed into position, what could be easier than that? I'm waiting for several replies with even easier methods! By the way, I did NOT make this particular coffee table but it was easier to take the shot in the warm family room rather than go into the shed on this chilly Easter Friday evening. Cheers for now, Harry Attached Thumbnails
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04-06-2007, 09:28 AM	#4
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 7,534 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Just one more way to do it . I like to use the corner type, it will hold the top down and sq.the cabinet up all with one small scrap block I make up 40 or 50 of the "hardwood clamping blocks) at one time then just put them in plastic bag, then I have them on hand when I need a hand full when I need to hold down a top. Bj Attached Thumbnails __________________ Bj Last edited by bobj3; 04-06-2007 at 11:06 AM.
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04-07-2007, 06:38 AM	#5
harrysin Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Western Australia Posts: 3,040 View harrysin's Gallery	Report This Post! Fitting table tops I like the idea Bob as per the centre pict. the first one puzzles me, why does it need pocket holes when just one screw as per centre pict. is just fine and the third pict. is also a puzzle, what is the centre "bush" in aid of? apologies to George, but I must sign off as CuriousHarry!
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04-07-2007, 09:01 AM	#6
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 7,534 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi Harry The picture of the white corner block works the same way as the 3rd. picture, it's holds the sides and the back or front of the cabinet/table/workbench/etc. sq. , then you drive in 2 pocket screws to hold the cabinet parts together using the pocket holes with just a bit of glue in the slots, then once it in place and the top is put on you drive a screw using the hole in the center of the corner block, this will hold the top in place and keep the cabinet sq. all with just one block. I like to off set the tongue "off center" this will let you flip the corner block over to get it just below the edge of the cabinet parts,this will let you pull the top down if you have a small gap in the parts. (the off set is only a 1/8" the norm) The corner blocks can be anything you have in the shop (scrap) unlike the ones in the 3rd. picture. The push block is used to put on the Tongue on the corner block, because the block is cut on a 45deg. it's a bit hard to hold it true to the fence when you make the pass by the router bit, but the push block will make it safe and easy to make the corner blocks. I like to use the set below because it will let me use up to 1 1/4" thick stock, the norm is 3/4" max thick stock when using T & G sets, I also use the CMT set all the time because it will put in a 1/4" deep slot/tongue and the norm is 7/16" deep slot but both sets work well. MLCS Two Piece Tongue & Groove Set below (OK set below▼ http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ue_groove.html Also this one at a lower price Tongue & Groove Assembly, same web page Grizzly T & G set ▼ below ( one arbor/shank type) with shim washers. http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1665 CMT set below ( the best ▼ http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/item....03004&d=79&b=1 With the bearing below you can put in the 7/16" deep slots if needed for cabinet door frames.... will fit the same arbor.... http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/item....698ZZ&b=3&d=79 Bj Attached Thumbnails __________________ Bj Last edited by bobj3; 04-07-2007 at 12:53 PM.
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