bobj3

Hi Cowboy

You use 1/8" plywood ? I can see 1/4" thick plywood but it's only about 3/16" thick,,but 1/8" plywood ??? , or are you saying 1/8" hardboard , I will need to check that one out



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Glenmore

That's alright Bj I don't use plywood for my sides or tops unless I'm making panel sides. I use only 1" or 3/4" stock anyway so it is a good sugestion from Joe and Cowboy.

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Hamlin

Ok, now I'm confused. I understand the T&G, because I use them myself. I'm not quite understanding the 1/8 ply suggestion. Why create an extra step?

It's been a very long day here, so, it could just be me not seeing the bigger picture.

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bobj3

Hi Glenmore

Now I'm confused ,, didn't Cowboy say he use the very thin 1/8" plywood for splines..? to join two or more boards as one..

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__________________
PodCast videos
RWS on YouTube

http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

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Bob J.

Bob

What did Mark put in the watering hole?

Now everyone is running around confused

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challagan

There are a couple different methods being talked about here. T&G bits, slot cutter in the RT or the saw blade in the table saw will all do the same thing. The slot cutter in the router table seems like the quickest with the least amount of set up to me. The size of the spline would depend on the thickness of the material being used. For 3/4 thick material 1/4 splines are the way to go. 1/8 splines don't do much for the strength of the joint in my opinion unless its for joining 3/8 material and smallerl. I would use plywood as Joe and Harry says for stability but 1/8 inch plywood is non existent at my local borgs but I can specialty order it but it's mainly used in scrolling. 1/8 hardboard is good if you can get the kind without the fuzzy backing but I wouldn't use it for 3/4 thick panels. Maybe 3/8 panels.

Corey

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Drugstore Cowboy

Not sure how I managed to cause confusion

- but - to clarify
Yes -
I did say that -
and yes -- I have done that
Only done it a few times - but with excellent results.
And - it very well may have been some scrap hardboard I had on hand - rather than plywood. It's been a while.
I don't remember where I got the idea - but I did it once out of curiosity - and other times because it worked and it was fast and simple.
Essentially the boards were edge-glued the spline was just there to help with alignment and add a little extra glue surface.

Yes -
If you are looking for added support making two passes with the table saw - thus getting 1/4" would be stronger.

Everybody's projects are different -
What few glue-ups I need to do are usually either either tops or sides for a chest or bookcase. There are always shelves or drawer frames or other cross pieces to take care of support. MOST of the time -- I get by fine with simple edge gluing -- no slots - no splines.
If I were doing larger areas or areas subject to more stress
- my choices would probably be different.

Hamlin -
I like tongue and groove
The spline method was just faster -- for me at the time.
I could make all the cuts on my table saw - without adjusting the height and moving the fence only once.


If anybody has read more more than one of my posts - you KNOW I am NOT saying this is the only way -- or even the best way -- just that it is a quick and simple way - that DOES work for some projects.

Confusion resolved?? I hope

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challagan

Cowboy, this is the only reason I own a full kerf saw blade, it's makes making a groove for a box bottom or stub & tenon joints easy. Otherwise I am a thin kerf kind of guy.

Corey

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Drugstore Cowboy

Now there's an idea I had not thought of --
And I am about due for a new blade - - - - hmmmm

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Glenmore

Sorry guys I miss read so I'm the cause for the confusion. Well at least you guys on your toes. I'm just out there. hahaha

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