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| Router Bits - Types and Usage Discussion area for the wide variety of router bits available today. Get help with the selecting the proper bit for your project, usage, set up and other tips and tricks. |
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| | #1 |
| Forum Moderator Supreme Forum King | Any one here use a glue bit. It is a router bit that gives a specific groove on each board that would be like a track for gluing. I want to maybe get on. Because I want a tighter seam when I'm making table tops or panels for less wood seam notice. ![]()
__________________ Glenmore Days without wood working are days not worth getting up for. |
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| | #2 |
| Retired Moderator Supreme Forum King | Here is some info and demo from John at Woodshop Demos on this type of bit. I think this is what you were wanting anyway. http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-gl1.htm Corey
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| | #3 |
| Forum Moderator Supreme Forum King | Thanks Corey that is the one. Do you or someone else try this bit. I would like to know if it is worth getting I know they are a little pricey but I do think it is worth it.
__________________ Glenmore Days without wood working are days not worth getting up for. |
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| | #4 | |
| Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King | Hi Glemore Out of the bits the gliue joint bit is one of the hardest to setup and use.. Next to the lock miter bit, it's also one of the hard ones to use and setup. If your stock is dead on you have a chance to get it right that's to say if the stock is 3/4" + or -0 it's not to bad, but if it off just a bit it will stick out like a sore thumb and you'er in for alot of sanding...to fix it...the error comes from you need to guess where the center is on the bit.. it's not marked and it's on the center of the male part of the bit...tricky setup..... a real fire wood maker ![]() You may want to take a hard look at the T & G bits,,,it will plane one of the boards at same time it puts the male part for the T & G , many use the biscuits when the T & G bits will do it so much better,,, I like to use the 3/8" wide T & G setup because it's bit stronger, but the 1/4" wide will work just as well ![]() Here's link to a great price for the T & G set... http://cgi.ebay.com/11pc-1-2-Shank-S...QQcmdZViewItem You can also get over size bearing from MLCS that fit right on the shank, that will let you put in a 3/16" deep slot, that's nice if you want to make some wider boards out of 1/4" to 1/2" thick stock... ================== Quote:
__________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables ![]() http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J. Last edited by bobj3; 10-21-2007 at 10:14 PM. | |
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| | #5 |
| Marine Engineer Forum King | Got one as part of a set from Woodline way back when... more work than anything else. If you have a good edge on your stock, stick a couple of biscuits in for alignment sake and just glue it up. I did get the quick blocks setup aid for the lock miter, it helps a little, but that thing still is a pain to set up. Not quite as quick and easy as they show at the woodworking demo!
__________________ Doug 1 John 1:9 |
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| | #6 |
| Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King | Hi Glenmore, it's good to see you feeling better and getting stuck into bigger things than pens. As you would expect, I'm about to put in my 2 cents worth. In my humble opinion, the easiest way to join long boards is with a slot cutter in the table. Set the height approx. half way, it's not at all critical, and run the boards all the way through the slotter. Now cut strips of plywood and glue them in like very long biscuits and the joint will last for at least one hundred years, I know this as I first came across this method when I was given, and dismantled a very old heavy door that was in perfect condition and took a lot of hard work to take apart. the only important thing to bear in mind Glenmore is that the slot cutter must have the same curf as the plywood thickness.
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| | #7 |
| Forum Moderator Supreme Forum King | Thanks that is a good idea Harry have one of those. So I won't have to get one of them higher class bits.
__________________ Glenmore Days without wood working are days not worth getting up for. |
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| | #8 | |
| Banned Supreme Forum King | Quote:
Glenmore, A simple way to do it is on the Table Saw with the 1/8" blade kerf... Get a sheet of 1/8" plywood at a BORG or wherever and just slice off strips with your band saw... edit: I use plywood due to it's ease of use and STABILITY. /edit You can use the same principle for drawers, etc. (That's what I did in building the drawers for my TV Tool Box drawers) Last edited by Joe Lyddon; 10-22-2007 at 03:12 PM. | |
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| | #9 | |
| Registered User Forum Geek | Quote:
And as mentioned - a VERY solid joint. Very clean too -- if your edges are true. The handy thing about this method (or the slot cutter) is that you dont have to worry so much about being dead center of the board. Since you are cutting the same x distance from the rip fence (or the router table) on every board - you are guaranteed at least one smooth side. Two assuming your boards are equal thickness. As a rule "You can get it quick, cheap, or right - but you can't have all three." Well -- this is one of those very rare occassions -- where you can ![]()
__________________ The one who says it can't be done -- Should avoid interrupting the person doing it. | |
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| | #10 |
| Banned Supreme Forum King | Cowboy, very good points that I hadn't given much thought... You're SO RIGHT! ![]() ... good to see you back and kicking... ![]() |
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