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Router Bits - Types and Usage Discussion area for the wide variety of router bits available today. Get help with the selecting the proper bit for your project, usage, set up and other tips and tricks.


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Old 11-24-2007, 08:45 AM   #1
dabeeler
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Default Newbie Question - Bit Selection - Roundover

I have noticed there are several sizes of roundover bits (not talking about shank size) with different size bearings also. How does one determine which size bit should be used other than trial or error? When would you choose a 1/4 instead of a 3/8 or 1/2 bit? Are there any good archive posts on bit selection for different applications?

Thanks,
David
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Old 11-24-2007, 09:49 AM   #2
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Hi David

Not that I know about ,,the round over bit can be used in so many ways it would hard for anyone to tell you how to use it ,,,

So many things come into play, the height of the bit the thickest of the stock the size of the bit,,,,
You can do what I have done just as a quick rule of thumb , run the bit(s) on some scrap stock and make your own setup blocks,,,this you can give you a quick ref. but aging you can get so many looks with the round over bit..
Like turning the stock on it's edge and running it by the bit ( 1/4" or 3/8" round over bit)..this will give you the look of molding


========




Quote:
Originally Posted by dabeeler
I have noticed there are several sizes of roundover bits (not talking about shank size) with different size bearings also. How does one determine which size bit should be used other than trial or error? When would you choose a 1/4 instead of a 3/8 or 1/2 bit? Are there any good archive posts on bit selection for different applications?

Thanks,
David
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Old 11-24-2007, 12:22 PM   #3
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Thanks for the reply. One more question, my brain tell me that it would be more difficult and not as safe to try and round the edge of a circular piece of wood on the router table as it would be to run a hand held router around a piece of stationary wood. Am I correct in my thinking?

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Old 11-24-2007, 12:37 PM   #4
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Hi David

Well you can do it both ways, but the router table is the best, with the start/safety pin in place,,,,in the router table mounting base plate.. this is because the router table is holding the router for you...and all you need to do is hold on to the project and turn it by the bit...the safety pin will keep the stock from being pulled out of your hands...

If you are doing a round/Square table top it's best done with a hand router because of the size of the project..



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Quote:
Originally Posted by dabeeler
Thanks for the reply. One more question, my brain tell me that it would be more difficult and not as safe to try and round the edge of a circular piece of wood on the router table as it would be to run a hand held router around a piece of stationary wood. Am I correct in my thinking?

David
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http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

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http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

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Old 11-24-2007, 12:39 PM   #5
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Dave,

Both ways work, I usually use the table. The key is a starting pivot point to stabilize the wood before you bring it into contact with the spinning router bit. Rest your stock against the pin, and slowly rotate the stock into the cutter until it is on the bearing. Then you can follow the bearing only.
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Old 11-24-2007, 09:19 PM   #6
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After the workpiece is into the bit is it necessary to continue maintaining contact with the safety pin? To this point I have not done anything on the table without using the fence.

Thanks Bobj3 and Doug for the reply.
David
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Old 11-24-2007, 09:49 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dabeeler
After the workpiece is into the bit is it necessary to continue maintaining contact with the safety pin? To this point I have not done anything on the table without using the fence.

Thanks Bobj3 and Doug for the reply.
David
No Dave, once you are riding on the bit bearing you are fine. You can still use the fence to do your round overs if it's just a straight piece of stock without curves. Just isolate the bearing behind the fence with a straight edge ( just set back enough so the bearing doesn't move and run them through) Just as easy to do it that way for that situation.

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Old 11-24-2007, 09:53 PM   #8
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Hi David

No
"edge of a circular piece of wood"

Once the bearing in on the stock you can pull the pin if it's in your way but besure to power down b/4 you pull it out of place, if it's not in your way just let it be, it will come in handy on square corners or if you want to start again in tight spot..


========





Quote:
Originally Posted by dabeeler
After the workpiece is into the bit is it necessary to continue maintaining contact with the safety pin? To this point I have not done anything on the table without using the fence.

Thanks Bobj3 and Doug for the reply.
David
__________________
PodCast videos
RWS on YouTube

http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

Bob J.


Last edited by bobj3; 11-24-2007 at 10:55 PM.
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