Dave Bishop

I would like to reproduce the "cyma recta" profile as part of a built-up crown molding, but cannot find anyone who sells such a bit. The "cyma recta" is essentially a shallow Roman ogee profile. For an example, see FWW #166, p. 74 (Dec. 2003). Has anyone got any suggestions?

I have thought of trying to combine a 3/8" radius roundover and a 3/8" radius cove, but I would need to run my stock at 30° to vertical for the roundover, and even then I would cut out more than I need (bit would engage entire 90° face while need only 60° of a cut. Thanks for any thoughts.

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bobj3

Hi Dave

They make just about all the molding bits for the router

Here are just some of them, the one I like best is the 1st. one on the list.


http://cgi.ebay.com/1-PC-1-2-Shank-R...742.m153.l1262

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-pc-1-2-Shank-R...742.m153.l1262


http://cgi.ebay.com/1-PC-1-2-SH-2-5-...742.m153.l1262

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-1-2-Shank-S...742.m153.l1262

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-pc-1-2-SH-2-5-...742.m153.l1262

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-1-2-Shamk-R...742.m153.l1262

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-PC-1-2-SH-Base...742.m153.l1262

http://stores.ebay.com/Super-Carbide-Tools


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molding_%28decorative%29

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Dave Bishop

Thanks for the suggestions, but none of these bits will do the job for me. I am not looking to make a one-piece traditional crown, but want the cyma recta profile as part of a built-up crown like the one I referenced in FWW.

Dr.Zook

Welcome to the forums Dave. Do you live in Ohio?

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bobj3

Hi Dave

Please,,, How about a snapshot of
" see FWW #166, p. 74 (Dec. 2003) " that one is 5 years old and I don't have it any more ..




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__________________
PodCast videos
RWS on YouTube

http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

Bob J.

Hamlin

I think I'm missing something here. If I'm understanding the "definition" correctly, all you need is a cove and round-over. You can make a "bevel" fence to get the "degree" that you're after. Again, I might be misunderstanding.

http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0geu7Orl.....org/wiki/Cyma

Bevel fence: http://www.routerworkshop.com/bevelfence.html

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Dave Bishop

Hamlin and others,

I have decided to try a "bevel fence", which I understand is an angled fence (in my case, I need 30° off of vertical, angled toward the bit). I will need to take the bearings off my bits so they clear the workpiece, for in each case, the cove and roundover bits are designed to take a 90° bite while I need only 60°. Because of this, the roundover bit will make a little notch where I don't need it, but it will be hidden when I stack the various profiles. I'll let you know how this works out. Thanks for your suggestions.

karateed

Hey Dave,

How about posting a few pics of your results?

Ed......:-)

Charles M

Dave,

Will any of these help?:

http://www.freudtools.com/p-187-wide...ng-system.aspx
http://www.freudtools.com/p-111-crown-molding-bits.aspx

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Charles M
Freud America, Inc.

Dave Bishop

To review, I was trying to make a "cyma recta" profile, a sort of flattened Roman ogee, as part of a built-up crown molding. While several of you have asked me to post pictures, I have tried this evening, but nothing happens when I push the "upload" button, even after several minutes of waiting. I have sent a note to the webmaster asking what to try next. Any thoughts from those of you who have uploaded images?

I am happy to report that I was more successful in the shop than at the keyboard. I built a 30° fence of MDF and was able to complete my prototype molding in three steps: (1) run 1/2" thick stock past a 3/8" roundover bit (bearing removed) using the 30° fence; (2) run stock past a 3/8" cove bit (bearing removed) using standard fence and stock flat on table, leaving a tiny step where the profiles met, for fear of overcutting it; and (3) a little hand sanding with 220 to remove the step.

I know this means little without photos, and I will post them if/when I solve that problem. Thanks to all for your suggestions. This is my first thread on this forum, and I already have the impression that it is one of the friendliest forums out there!