Top bearing sliding up shaft

[MisterHeavy]

I only own two TB cutters. One's a 1/2" pattern, the other a jig-fitting dovetail.
Both bearing retaining sleeves have either been loose or worked loose in use. The pattern bit threw its grub screw into a parallel universe somewhere and last ninght the DT bit suddenly "felt funny" so I stopped ASAP and saw the bearing had slid up the shaft to the collet.

I don't bottom bits out in the collet, but if I did, the bearing retaining ring would sink a mm or two below the collet nut edge.
The T9 has a deep collet, and most bits would "bottom out" on the collet face before the shaft hit the motor spindle but I always back the bit out a smidgeon
The DT is long-shafted and I had the bit backed out a lengthy smidgeon - maybe 1/3" to give me a little more bit height (smidgeons aren't metricated yet ) so there's room on the shaft for the bearing to slide if it becomes loose.

It did.

QUESTION:
If I packed the bearing retainer-to-collet distance with two or three 1/4" washers, would that cause any problems? It seems to me that it wouldn't, as the cutter would only be "rigidified" against the collet, not the arbor, but I'd like to avail myself of correct wisdom before doing anything potentially blood producing.

I know an O ring would be better in some ways, but the washers are more easily available.
Thanks

[kp91]

Mr. H,

I would recommend getting a new stop collar. There are a couple of examples below from US suppliers, but I'm sure that you should be able to find something similar in your neck of the woods.

http://pricecutter.com/stop-collar-kits/p/198-8043/

http://pricecutter.com/35-piece-rout...it/p/199-9641/

Washers aren't the most precision manufactured items in the world, and with their irregular surfaces, diameters, etc, they might induce a little vibration in your machine spinning at 20,000 rpm. A machined stop collar is probably a more proper choice.

Just my 2 cents,

[bobj3]

Hi MisterHeavy

I have many bits with the bearing retaining sleeves ( locking coller ) on them the 1st. thing I do when I get them is take out that LITTLE set screw and pickup the super glue ( thick type) and I put a dot or two in the hole for the set screw. it locks the set screw and the sleeve in place.

It's a good chance the bit will dull out long b/4 you need to replace the bearing..but if not a bit of heat from a heat gun will let you remove the bearing.

But don't use washers you can buy locking rings/set screws at ACE hardware for 25 cents each ( on or off line ) and the replacement bearing or set screws from just about any router bit supply out...I just about always have two bearings on the dovetail bits for the jigs that use them and two rings if they will fit on the shank...rings are cheap templates are not..



=============

Originally Posted by MisterHeavy

I only own two TB cutters. One's a 1/2" pattern, the other a jig-fitting dovetail.
Both bearing retaining sleeves have either been loose or worked loose in use. The pattern bit threw its grub screw into a parallel universe somewhere and last ninght the DT bit suddenly "felt funny" so I stopped ASAP and saw the bearing had slid up the shaft to the collet.

I don't bottom bits out in the collet, but if I did, the bearing retaining ring would sink a mm or two below the collet nut edge.
The T9 has a deep collet, and most bits would "bottom out" on the collet face before the shaft hit the motor spindle but I always back the bit out a smidgeon
The DT is long-shafted and I had the bit backed out a lengthy smidgeon - maybe 1/3" to give me a little more bit height (smidgeons aren't metricated yet ) so there's room on the shaft for the bearing to slide if it becomes loose.

It did.

QUESTION:
If I packed the bearing retainer-to-collet distance with two or three 1/4" washers, would that cause any problems? It seems to me that it wouldn't, as the cutter would only be "rigidified" against the collet, not the arbor, but I'd like to avail myself of correct wisdom before doing anything potentially blood producing.

I know an O ring would be better in some ways, but the washers are more easily available.
Thanks

[Mike]

There are several thread locking compounds available for a modest fee, but you dont need to buy any. A small amount of womens nail polish applied to the set screw threads before installing it will lock it in place. Since most women only use a small amount of the polish before changing colors you are likely to get a few used bottles for free, just ask.
Another free workshop helper is used lipstick. Darker colors work best for locating or adjusting strike plates on door locks or indicating rub spots.