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Old 05-07-2008, 09:16 AM   #11
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HI Julie

I would love to see a snapshot of the cove molding you made and like the one I posted ,I made a jig ( angle jig) to do it on the table saw and it was a nightmare for me, I started with a 3/4" x 3 1/2" wide 36" long pine and it was hoping all over the place by a 1/32" ,I tried 3 diff. blades and had the same error over and over not to say anyhting about saw marks,,,

After making some real nice pine firewood I gave up and use the bit below to get the job done with a pass or two on the router table...

Crown Molding Router Bits from MLCS



#7870 2-1/4" 1/2" $37.00
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...molding_anchor

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julie
I love my router but for this, I use the table saw. I just made some molding a few days ago out of pine and it is beautiful and hardly needed any sanding. I'm not sure why Bob said it was a 'nightmare' to make?

~Julie~
Attached Thumbnails
best-bits-crown-molding-crown-molding.jpg  best-bits-crown-molding-534.jpg  best-bits-crown-molding-535.jpg  best-bits-crown-molding-531.jpg  best-bits-crown-molding-536.jpg  


Last edited by bobj3; 05-07-2008 at 10:10 AM.
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Old 05-10-2008, 06:30 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3
HI rstermer

It's funny that you should post this I was making a test board today to do about the same but not 300' feet I just need about 30ft or so.

It's a real challenge for the router to made crown molding ,I use some junk pine and it was hard to get it just right,,,it took two bits and many passes over the router bit,,,,,it will take a 3 1/4HP router and it will draw 15 amps. all the time,,,the test board I made is 3 1/4" wide and use a 2 3/4" wide cove bit I don't think I will do it the same way next time I think I'm going to use the Vert.bit next time, it's not as hard on the router and me next time..

I also try it on the table saw and that was a real night mare , it took more time to sand it out than it was worth..

I used the MLCS bits on this test board and I also have the Vert.bits for the next test board...

I should note I used many panel bits and the cove bit is one of the hardest bits I have used on the router table because it takes the FULL pattern of the bit that's to say both sides of the cutter are being used at one time...it's a push pull thing on the bit and it likes to pull the stock right out of your hands, so I used the buddies that did help but it's still hard on the bit and the router and ME...nerve racking job.. and I should not be..

==========
Bob- Did you try out the vertical bit? How did that work out?
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Old 05-10-2008, 07:11 AM   #13
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Here is an interesting link to a blog describing how to make it on the table saw:

http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/decoustudio/blog/312

Note the sanding time- 1 hr per stick! Ouch!! But he didn't have a good alternative way to do it since he had to match an existing crown.
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Old 05-10-2008, 07:44 AM   #14
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Here is a blog from a guy who made crown using a vertical bit.

http://tonyswoodshop.blogspot.com/20...n-molding.html

His fixturing is too simple though, and so he got a pretty poor result, lots of waves which indicates to me that the stock was not being held with uniform pressure aginst the bit. If he had used a double fence setup like Bobj3 shows in one of his thumbnails, I think he would probably would have obtained a much better result.
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Last edited by rstermer; 05-10-2008 at 08:23 AM.
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Old 05-10-2008, 08:05 AM   #15
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Here is a link to a pretty good discussion on how to INSTALL crown molding.

http://www.jeffgreefwoodworking.com/...ngs/index.html

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Old 05-10-2008, 08:21 AM   #16
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Here is a link to an article describing techniques for making built up crown molding:

http://www.woodworkingseminars.com/w...ownmolding.pdf

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Old 05-10-2008, 08:23 AM   #17
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Hi rstermer


I make most of the molding with my Horz.router table but I do use the other setup as well when I need 5" tall molding,,or short modling 1" tall ,pass the stock by the bit and both edges then rip it to size,on the tall stuff I use the Horz.router for the 1st. and the other setup for the 2nd pass it saves me time from playing with setup and bits...

here's a snapshot of just some of the molding I made with the Vert.bits

==========
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Old 05-10-2008, 08:46 AM   #18
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Link to a Freud video that shows the use of their bits. The fixturing is pretty good, but I still think Bobj3's approach is best.
rstermer

http://www.brightcove.tv/title.jsp?t...nel=1155152696
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Old 05-10-2008, 09:04 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3
Hi rstermer


I make most of the molding with my Horz.router table but I do use the other setup as well when I need 5" tall molding,,or short modling 1" tall ,pass the stock by the bit and both edges then rip it to size,on the tall stuff I use the Horz.router for the 1st. and the other setup for the 2nd pass it saves me time from playing with setup and bits...

here's a snapshot of just some of the molding I made with the Vert.bits

==========
Nice stuff, looks like you were using mdf. Do you think we should use mdf or pine for a painted ceiling molding? Also, do you think one Super Carbide bit will hold up for a run of 840' (420' of molding cut top and bottom = 840') or should we go with the MLCS bit? My thought is that as a newbie, with limited ability to make adjustments on the fly, once I get my setup done, I don't want to change ANYTHING (except cut depth) until I've run it all.
Thanks,
rstermer

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Old 05-10-2008, 09:40 AM   #20
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Hi rstermer

I would suggest MDF if you are goinf to paint it.. MDF comes out clean and takes paint well.

I use a sanding mop when I use MDF it will take the fuzz off quick and give it a nice clean look...

http://www.stockroomsupply.com/The_Sanding_Mop.php

=========

MDF stock is hard on bits, I would suggest you have a extra one on hand just it case.
You can run it by the bit in two passes that will help keep the wear down on the bit plus give you a nice clean looking molding...


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