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trex021 · 04-09-2007, 03:50 PM

I've got a problem with a remodel project that I'd like to be able to utilize my router to solve. Unfortunately, I'm not sure it's a good idea from a safety standpoint and I'd like some advice.

After demoing a room to the studs and putting up new drywall, the window jambs protrude (are proud of) the drywall from 3/16" up to 1/2". The jambs need to be flush to the drywall for easy window casing fitting.

My thought was to put a big 3/4" rabbeting bit (the jamb is 3/4") on my router and nail a board next to and running parallel with the jamb and rout the jamb flush with the drywall. I would run half of the router base on the board.

I have an old PC690 that has an RPM of 23000 . I could probably borrow or rent a bigger / variable speed router if you guys deem it necessary and safe.

**bobj3** · 04-09-2007, 04:13 PM

Hi tex021

This is just my 2 cents, I would rework the casing and not and try to do anything with jambs,they may have nails in them to start with and it's not to safe to use the router in that way.

See item below

Bj

trex021 · 04-09-2007, 04:20 PM

Bob,

First of all, thanks for your quick response! I have considered reworking the casings. Most of the jambs are protruding only 3/16" or less and I think it would work. However, one super long jamb is 1/2" proud which is well thicker than my casings at the point of contact with the jamb.

I have carefully inspected the jambs for nails and removed them or at least pounded the deep ones well past the point of the drywall.

Assuming (yes, this is a big assumption) that I've removed any nail, is my plan unsafe? What about the idea of having less than half of the router base running on the board? Especially with such a big bit???

**bobj3** · 04-09-2007, 04:30 PM

Hi

You may want to RENT a 3" power hand planer and just knock it all down/flush to the drywall.

Bj

trex021 · 04-09-2007, 04:35 PM

Bob,

I am not familiar with a power planer. Is it capable of knocking the jamb flush to the drywall without damaging it (the drywall)? Also, would the edge be even (not wavy)? The jamb will only be half covered by the casing.

I take it you're not crazy about my router idea!

**bobj3** · 04-09-2007, 04:45 PM

Hi

I like router bits and have many of them but they don't like nails and if you hit one the carb. blade will fly off

The power planer will knock the jam down in a heart beat and it will be flat to the drywall like any tool it takes a small learning curve, the blade is 3" wide the norm and the base can just ride on the drywall to made the pass quick and easy.

That's also why I said RENT one , they know it will have nicks in the blades when they get it back.

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-1902X7-...6151679&sr=1-2

http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Recond...6151679&sr=1-1

Bj

04-09-2007, 03:50 PM	#1
trex021 Registered User New Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 3 View trex021's Gallery	Report This Post! Seeking advice - safety and feasibility I've got a problem with a remodel project that I'd like to be able to utilize my router to solve. Unfortunately, I'm not sure it's a good idea from a safety standpoint and I'd like some advice. After demoing a room to the studs and putting up new drywall, the window jambs protrude (are proud of) the drywall from 3/16" up to 1/2". The jambs need to be flush to the drywall for easy window casing fitting. My thought was to put a big 3/4" rabbeting bit (the jamb is 3/4") on my router and nail a board next to and running parallel with the jamb and rout the jamb flush with the drywall. I would run half of the router base on the board. I have an old PC690 that has an RPM of 23000 . I could probably borrow or rent a bigger / variable speed router if you guys deem it necessary and safe.
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04-09-2007, 04:13 PM	#2
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,098 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi tex021 This is just my 2 cents, I would rework the casing and not and try to do anything with jambs,they may have nails in them to start with and it's not to safe to use the router in that way. See item below Bj Attached Thumbnails __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J. Last edited by bobj3; 04-09-2007 at 08:12 PM.
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04-09-2007, 04:20 PM	#3
trex021 Registered User New Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 3 View trex021's Gallery	Report This Post! Bob, First of all, thanks for your quick response! I have considered reworking the casings. Most of the jambs are protruding only 3/16" or less and I think it would work. However, one super long jamb is 1/2" proud which is well thicker than my casings at the point of contact with the jamb. I have carefully inspected the jambs for nails and removed them or at least pounded the deep ones well past the point of the drywall. Assuming (yes, this is a big assumption) that I've removed any nail, is my plan unsafe? What about the idea of having less than half of the router base running on the board? Especially with such a big bit??? Attached Thumbnails Last edited by trex021; 04-09-2007 at 05:03 PM.
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04-09-2007, 04:30 PM	#4
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,098 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi You may want to RENT a 3" power hand planer and just knock it all down/flush to the drywall. Bj __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J.
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04-09-2007, 04:35 PM	#5
trex021 Registered User New Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 3 View trex021's Gallery	Report This Post! Bob, I am not familiar with a power planer. Is it capable of knocking the jamb flush to the drywall without damaging it (the drywall)? Also, would the edge be even (not wavy)? The jamb will only be half covered by the casing. I take it you're not crazy about my router idea!
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04-09-2007, 04:45 PM	#6
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,098 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi I like router bits and have many of them but they don't like nails and if you hit one the carb. blade will fly off The power planer will knock the jam down in a heart beat and it will be flat to the drywall like any tool it takes a small learning curve, the blade is 3" wide the norm and the base can just ride on the drywall to made the pass quick and easy. That's also why I said RENT one , they know it will have nicks in the blades when they get it back. http://www.amazon.com/Makita-1902X7-...6151679&sr=1-2 http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Recond...6151679&sr=1-1 Bj __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J. Last edited by bobj3; 04-09-2007 at 04:49 PM.
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