seawolf21

I wish they had thicker wrenches so they don't slide off the collet nut. Yesterday while loosening the nut the wrench slipped off and skinned my knuckle. I also have trouble finding out how far down to put the bit in the collet. At least on the Craftsman routers you can feel it bottom out and then you can pull it up 1/16.

Gary

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Glenmore

Gary I do agree with you one of the wrenches should be a little thicker. When I put my bits into the collet I just simply push it until it won't go no more and give a little pull for clearence of the bottom. Luckily I never had one fly out on me.

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Glenmore

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bobj3

Hi Gary

This is what I did to fix that error,,,little bit of hard wood and no more skinned knuckles
At 1st. I did both but it's only need on one of the wrenches,works great.

The picture is a little fuzzy but I'm sure you will get it...


" I also have trouble finding out how far down to put the bit in the collet"

If you put a rubber gromet in the bottom of collet nut you will not have that error, it will always be in the same spot and in the right place in the collet nut...in this way when you used matched router bits it will always be right on when you switch bits. (like when you use R & S for just one of the sets)

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Off-Set Router Bit Wrench

Simple in design, and simple to use. The 90° Router Bit Wrench makes a difficult router bit change easier with it's "bent wrench" design. The wrench bends right around the opening of your router plate so you can easily secure the nut below your bit on your router. The handle is is coated with a solid rubber for a nice easy grip. The wrench comes in four different sizes for your use with most routers: 5/16", 3/4", 7/8", and 1-1/8.


http://www.ptreeusa.com/routerAcc.htm#20262

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Bob J.

Mike

All manufacturers instructions tell you the bit must go all the way through the collet for a proper hold. To assist in seting the proper depth each time get a piece of 1/2" dowel and insert it through the collet and nut till it bottoms out. Mark the dowel next to the nut so you can maintain the proper position. Remove the collet and nut from the router. Cut the dowel 1/8" before it reaches the collet. Put a drop of rubber cement on the end of the dowel and insert it into the router. Use a bit to hold it in place while the rubber cement sets up. Now you have a safe automatic depth gauge for installing your bits.

Some routers have instructions that say to bottom the bit in the collet and pull it out 1/8". In this situation you can take an O ring that fits snuggly into the shaft and bottom it out. Friction will hold it in place. This allows the collet to tighten properly and gives you an automatic setting.

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Mike
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mftha

I fit a bit into the collet nut before I connect it to the router. I check that the bit shaft is even with bottom of the collet nut, then I mark all around the shaft with a sharpie so that I know from one time to the next how far to insert the shaft. My router (Makita 3612C) has a 1/2 inch collet and uses adapters for smaller shafts. The adapters (MLCS and Lee Valley) are longer than the collet nut itself so I have them marked also. So far the markings have not worn off.

I have to wonder if putting o-rings or other things below the collet nut doesn't defeat the purpose of not bottoming out the bit shaft? Isn't there an overheating problem?

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bobj3

Hi Mike

I need to disagree with you on one or two points,,

Using a wooden dowel in the bottom is not a good way to do it,,, the bit must move down just a little bit when you grank it down in place..

The rubber gromet will let it do that...it will compress down just a little bit.

Most of the collet nuts crab the bit on the top 1/3 of the bit inside of the collet nut not the bottom of the bit, if you look at some of the collet nuts you will see a small ring of steel around the bottom part of the collet nut, not all of them but many of them...

"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions."
MIKE
Senior Moderator

see snapshot below
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__________________
PodCast videos
RWS on YouTube

http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

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Bob J.

Mike

It's fine to disagree with me BJ. The dowel height adjustment is supplied from the factory by Makita. Following manufacturers instructions is the way to go.

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bobj3

Hi Mike

I just recalled I have one router that I use that has a Deep hole in the harbor and I didn't have a right size grommet for the collet nut so I did make and used a wooden 1/2" dowell rod with a rubber grommet glued on the dowel rod that did the trick .

see snapshot below..

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
PodCast videos
RWS on YouTube

http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

Bob J.

Hamlin

Hi Gary,

You're right, manufacturers need to make thicker walled wrenches. The ones for both craftsman I have are twice the thickness of that of both my Makita's. You could easily pick up a normal wrench then grind it down some if needed. Done this method many times.

Hi mftha,
The "o-ring" prevents metal to metal contact that will allow heat transfer.
For my Makita's, I've always used this one rule, I make sure that either the adapter or bit shank is atleast 3/4 of it's length in the collet nut. I've never had any issues with this method. No loosening of the bit, no vibrations, etc.

This is true to a point. Sometimes, even the manufacturers goof.
(Not disagreeing with you on this one Mike).

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