rout-on

Hello there:
It has been some time since I logged on as I was busy remodelling and renovating my brothers house for sale,and became too busy to see what was new on this site.I haven't had much time to browse thru it yet,but looks like a few things changed.Anyhow,during my renovating ,I acquired 2 old French Doors(Hope the pics turn out) equipped with Skeleton Key slotted type locks and rounded 2 piece doorknob handles.I have just finished removing the white paint from the rails and stiles of 1 of the doors,and was very surprised to see what was underneath.I am not familar with old timber,but it looks like plywood grain does,although it is solid and heavy ,but soft.When I removed the paint,it revealed somewhat like an oil residue,could be from the paint,as I suspect it was oil-based lead paint,or could be the resins from the wood trapped all those years.What I would like to know is......can anyone tell me from these pics what the wood type could be and how do I prepare them (I mean should I use a type of solvent to rinse the wood after stripping it.My wife wants to paint them white again(fresh )she says it is the style today,but I amtrying to convince her they wood be best just to stain and or varnish them and watch the beauty in the wood occur.Also,the panes of glass show a floral type pattern to them to give a frosty type appearance,but the centre panes were clear and had a plastic sheet layered over it to show like a broken glass look.0ne of them is just clear as I suspect it got broke onetime and could not be replaced as the original.How can I remove the paint on the glass,will paint remover damage the glass or make it even frostier than now.Any or all suggestions are welcome and I don't think the pics can be uploaded because the resolution was too high because I wanted people to see what I was saying.If they do not upload,can I send some of them to fellow woodworkers via PM to see if they can help me.The pic with the heat gun laying on it shows the centrepane with half of the overlay missing ,so I'll have to remove the other portion,hopefully the heat gun will do this.I have since removed the peel on layer.too bad wish I had some to replace it.Thanks,
rout-on!
Seems the pics uploaded..........Have a look-see

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rout-on

Here are some pics of a stairwell I did over while renovating a home( as mentioned in my post here....titled French Doors.These stairs were Carpeted with staples,vinyl tiles... glued with old black tar adhesive,painted 3 times and had a type of glue-resin sitting on original timber. It took me 2 weeks of Sanding,stripping and removing paint with heat-gun before I got it to bare wood.I applied an antique gelstain on them,but did not varnish or varathane them,as his budget was getting thin from the amount of work needed on the home.........but it sure beats leaving them the way they were as he preferred ,but I convinced him otherwise.
rout-on

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jerrymayfield

You will have to overcoat the stain with some type of clear finish. The stain has very little binder in it and the stain will not last long without it.

Regards

Jerry

rout-on

I realize that many are not going to respond to this thread...that's ok,but I am concerned about how to treat the wood when preparing for Stain if we go that route and about getting the paint off of the old washboard type glass in the panes( around the munions only....they didn't pay too much attention to painting around the panes of glass).One side is smooth,which is great because I can remove with sharp blade in window scraper,but the indented side concerns me...I don't want to overheat the glass and cause it to break...as I bet I can't replace it.............PLEASE FEEL FREE to add suggestions anyone.
OK,Jerry.......... Thanks...........what type of wood does it look like to you................???????.I would like to try and find out!
Were you referring to the stain on the doors or stairs
Regards,
Dave

Here are some pics of 1 door sanded lightly to show wood grain

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jonnyboy63

Rout-on ~
The resilient properties of glass are just one of the reasons why they use it to manufacture things like beakers and testubes and the whatnot. It is a wonderful medium that withstands the likes of acids and bases the world over. That you are proposing to use paint remover on an object that contains glass should not keep you from doing so!
Paying close attention to and following as precisely as possible the directions for said remover should net you results that are satisfactory. The possibility of numerous applications of paint remover depend on: 1.) How many coats of paint exist and. 2.) The strength of the remover that you are using. (The more environmentally freindly the stripper is the more applications will be required).
That said, it appears that the wood that underlies all the layers that you have already removed is pine. This wood will withstand any abuses that your paint remover may impart to it so feel free to strip it as you would a tender lover. .... Oh, .... damn, wrong forum. ...... Just keep doing what your doing and all will be well!

Sincerely

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Jonathan C. O'Connor

del schisler

here is a update on the walnut piece for the room i dont have a name for it yet dont know what i will put in it but i had the wood for almost 20yrs stored inside so i guess it's time to use it i used oak for the floor i had some 4" square pieces that i resawed and half laped to put them togother and ran them short way or frount to back for strength i am making the drower out of oak and walnut frount with walnut acorn pulls with the keyhole cover all matching del schisler

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del schisler

dusty56

I would have to say that your doors are made from FIR....looks like amber shellac was used for the finish....although some of the grain looks like southern yellow pine , I believe you are too far north to have doors made from that species...Please get back to me with your findings ! Good luck with the glass , I hope you find a source for it...
Dusty56.... sneezie@comcast.net

jerrymayfield

I was referring to the stairs. The doors are probably pine,but maybe fir, hard to say for sure. In any case,after stripping and wiping down with MS, seal with a spit(thin)coat of shellac, and then finish whatever way you like. If it were me I would first apply a fresh made orange shellac,and then a couple of coats of waterlox original varnish(gloss or semi-gloss). This will mimic the "punkin pine" look that pine ages (over time) to.

Regards

Jerry