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Show N' Tell Share your pictures of your latest projects with other members and visitors. Unfinished and finished project pictures welcome. Please give a small description of your project and what it was finished with.


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Old 08-28-2006, 02:23 AM   #11
bobj3
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Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A.
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bobj3 is a jewel in the roughbobj3 is a jewel in the roughbobj3 is a jewel in the rough


Hi Rusty

The T & G fence works great and it's all made of the MDF 3/4" thick stock that's much cheaper than the poly. stock.
It's nice to have a clamp down side blocks but make them so they come off, most of the time you will not need them.
80% of your routering on the router table will be with bits that have bearings on the bits.
I use a pin type fence that's to say if I want the router to come out the top I just swing the fence to one side or off the back and pull the router out the top with the base plate if I need to work on it and the fence can be just pulled right back in to place and go back to work.
That's to say you don't need to remove the fence most of the time, it's about the same as Bob & Ricks but you don't need unclamp the fence just pull the pin and swing it out and away.
The snap pin I got from sommerfeld tools and they used it on the fence they had for sale, but no longer sale but the parts they still have on hand at the right price but they don't list them on the web site a call to the 888 number is needed to get one.

The way I mounted to the MDF was a bit trickey but not that hard,It's a snap pin that locks at the up lift up and turn to the left or right about a 1/4" then let it drop and it will stay up so you can just push the fence out of the way.

The pin is metric threaded and I didn't have the right tap size ,so I put in a couter bor hole on the top and the bottom of the MDF fence base about 1/4" deep on both then I found a 5/8" drill and drilled a hole for the pin to just slip in, then I found a 5/18-18 hex nut and a 3/8 NPT pipe tap and rethreated the nut down to 1/2" deep in the nut from both sides of the nut then I took the hack saw and cut off 3/16" from ea. side of the nut to make two jam nuts then screwed one nuts all the way up on the pin then I slip it in the hole and put the other nut on the bottom of the pin in the couter bor hole on the bottom side of the fence.
The nut on the top is on a washer under the nut and the one on the bottom side of the side of the fence as no washer under the nut so it will pull into the MDF stock and lock it in place.
Now it's locked in the fence with the two jam nuts.
The pin size is 3/8" dia. and sticks out about 1/2" from the base of the fence.
It takes a bit of math to drill the pin hole in the router table but it's based on the center point of the router bit, I have two holes so I can use big bits and small ones with just a quick snap of the pin.
On the other end of the fence has the lock knob with 1/4-20 threads that is screwed into a 1/4-20 t-nut that's glued in place with that good old monkey glue.

Just a note ,I always cut the sharp points off the t-nuts when I use them and just have about 1/16" of the point left, in that way they hold but don't split the wood and they always go in all the way, I also use a " N " bit size to dill the hole for the t-nut, the true barrel O.D. size of the nut.

Also the lock down knob as a slot 5/16" wide about 4" long that leys you move the fence to the right spot and clamp it down quick and easy.

If you want to see a snapshot just ask and I will post one or two.


Bj
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Last edited by bobj3; 08-28-2006 at 03:32 PM.
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