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Adjustable Height Workstation/Router Table and more

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33K views 84 replies 18 participants last post by  MT Stringer  
#1 · (Edited)
Recently I have been building a new mobile workstation for my small workshop (one car garage). I have built a few cabinets and needed something lower than my worktable so I can assemble the cabinet carcasses.

So, I got to thinking. And the more I thought about it, the more I wanted to build something I can use a lot and for different things. My original thoughts and plan have gone through several iterations, mostly in my head, and while I am asleep! :D

Listed below are the expectations I hope to end up achieving:
  • Adjustable height work table
  • Lowest position to be used to assemble cabinets or other projects that are too tall to assemble on the work table
  • Make it easy to adjust the height either when raising or lowering the top
  • Set the height at a comfortable height for sanding operations. Build a sanding station to clamp onto the table (future project)

  • Incorporate the design so the table can be positioned level with the work table (34 1/2 inches) to help support projects longer than 48 inches.

  • Table top size to be approx 30 x 37 inches

Design
With the help and advice of my friend MobilePaul, I decided to build a frame using 2x4 premium studs from the big box store. I ripped off the round edges leaving 1 1/2 x 3 inch stock with which to build. Some glue, some screws and some pocket screws and a few clamps and I wound up with a nice sturdy frame.

The top portion consists of a similar frame attached to four legs. Each leg is simply two pieces of 3/4 inch Baltic Birch glued and screwed together. One side of each leg has a routed slot in it. I drilled and installed two 3/8 inch bolts for each leg. they are glued into the lower framework. I used the Gorilla glue and they are stuck like Chuck! Some fender washers and 3/8" knobs from Woodriver (Woodcraft) round out the adjustable part. Note: When prepping for final cuts before assembling the upper frame, I put several pieces of plastic (flexible cutting board) between the frame and each leg to force a little clearance, then cut my pieces and put them together.

The 3/4 inch top will have an edge band around all four sides and filler strips underneath in between to edge and the frame. This will provide 1 1/2 inch thick edges for clamps. I plan to round off the corners and then cover the top with a piece of Formica.

To facilitate raising and lowering the table I bought a scissor jack from Harbor Freight. It is big, but I made the decision based on the fact that it came with a speed wrench and a hex head on the jack. I could hook up an impact wrench and get-after-it if I wanted to. ;)

I mounted the jack on a couple of 2x 6's I had laying around. A couple of pieces of scrap 1/2 inch plywood filled in the open area on either side of the jack.

After some careful measuring to determine the jacks' maximum height and it's lowest position, I fabricated a "spacer" which is working out great. I made it using more short plywood cutoffs with pocket screws and screws and glue. The jack is bolted to the frame and the spacer is bolted to the jack. I don't plan to attach the spacer to the top frame. Just no need to do it.

If you look closely at the top frame, you will see a couple of cross braces. They are attached with pocket screws only (no glue).

Table design - rev 1

So there I was admiring my work when it hit me- why not install a router plate on one end? :p The way the frame and cross members are placed, a router plate will fit nicely and be well supported. This a perfect opportunity to resolve some issues I have been dealing with. the opening in the Rokler plate is too small for my raised panel bit to fit through. So, I bought a Kreg plate pre-drilled for the Bosch 1617. It has a 3 9/16's inch opening so the bit will fit. It also comes with a wrench for twist lock quick insert plate changes. This should work out well.

To protect the router, I will remove it and drop in a filler plate when I assemble a project.

Table design - rev 2 :D

When I checked my email yesterday, I had received an email from Highland Woodwworking. It just so happened they have the Triton 3 1/4 hp router on sale! So I ordered it and another Kreg plate predrilled for the Triton (including the hole for the height adjustment tool to fit through.

When I started this project, all I wanted was a shorter table for assembly work. Those plans have changed dramatically. Now, I can dismantle my current router table top.

Hope you like the pictures. I will post more when I get the routers installed.
Mike
 

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#8 ·
Mike - that looks like you've considered many needs and expectations of future uses! It also appears you have assembled it very accurately. Sometimes, when I have built things such as this - I will also add an electrical outlet, fed with 20-25 feet of heavy gauge cord. If there are multiple cords on the floor - you can bet my clumsy butt is going to trip and hit the floor otherwise!

Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia
 
#10 ·
It is not finished yet but it will be about 28-30 at the lowest and near 38 at its highest.
It would have been a little lower but I added the 3/4 inch pads for the casters. I didn't like the fit and where the lag bolts would be screwed into the wood.

I will post pics of the actual min/max when I get through.
Thanks
Mike
 
#11 ·
Very nice looking setup Mike . As mentioned , well thought up . Thanks for posting the pictures , I've got a much better idea of how you've engineered it now .
Definitely looking forward to seeing the completion . This will be in my favorites ;)
 
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#12 ·
You've also got me reconsidering my lowest height . I was going to a minimum of 33" when it's acting as an out feed table .But the more I think of it , when your using it's table to assemble projects it may be nice to be lower yet
 
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#13 ·
Yes sir. I wanted a finished height of 24 inches, but it just didn't work out that way. I am adding filler strips under the edges and preparing to attach the edge pieces (after I route the edges of the filler strips flush with the top).

It is coming together slowly but surely.
Thanks for the kudos from everyone.
Mike
 
#14 ·
Got a little more work done today on the cart. First task was to drill pocket holes in the frame (slight over-site on my part) and attach the top. I glued and stapled filler strips under the edges of the top. That will give support when I need to use clamps.

After the filler strips were attached, I ran a flush trim bit around the edge of the top. Next up I glued and stapled 3/4 x 1 1/2 inch edge band around all four edges. I double checked my portable workstation to see what radius I had cut for it. Yep. One inch radius. I marked each corner and rough cut the radius with a jig saw, then smoothed it out with the ROS.

I checked the existing height (35 1/4") and it appears I have an additional 3 1/2" which equals almost 39 inches. That is perfect for me. The worktable/outfeed table is 34 1/2" and the miter saw station is 37" so I can match both of those heights. Makes me happy.

That brings me up to current state. If it doesn't rain tomorrow, I will buy the Formica and glue it on.
 

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#16 · (Edited)
Top looks great . I wish I understood how to get those rounded off corners like that. There's no router bit that long is there and how does it track ? You can tell I'm a rookie

Ok I read the post better , got it lol

When you get the Formica on it's going to be awesome ! Are you going with a light color?
 
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#18 ·
The top is on and the table is ready to use. Actually, I have already used it while cutting the Formica to length.

In a couple of the pics you will see my ******* saw horse cutting station I cobbled up so I could crosscut the Formica at the 32 inch mark. :p Don't laugh, It worked as I expected it to. I set the track saw for a shallow cut and put a piece of foam insulation board under the Formica. I got a smooth, clean cut.

I used Weldwood contact cement to laminate the Fomica to the top. Then I used a flush trim bit to trim along the edges. It turned out nice.

Next, I will work on getting the router plates installed. But for now, the table is ready for what it was originally designed for - project assembly. As you can see in the picture, I have an adjustable working height ranging from 28 to 39 inches. That works for me.
Mike
 

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#19 ·
I guess you might be curious about the things in the back of the truck. One bag is a sand bag I used to anchor my light stands when doing strobe photography. The white bag is a canvas bag with a ten pound barbell weight in it. The tan bag is a utility bag with all of my offshore fishing weights in it...about 20 pounds worth. I didn't want to take a chance on the Formica blowing out of the truck on the way home. :)
 
#20 · (Edited)
Wow it looks really sharp , love the outcome of the top!!
Have you put a straight edge on it to make sure it's dead flat , or is that even necessary ?
Now I guess the next step is to install router plates :)

I really like your range of height adjustments . I'm pretty much going to shoot for the same as I believe it would be handy to go low when building certain projects and high for routing

Speaking of routing, Mike you are going to put a router on each end right ? I was debating to have them side by side but was wondering if it would be more comfortable working off the end of the table
 
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#21 ·
Looking at your lift system makes me wonder if I'm overthinking my idea . I'm pretty impressed with your whole concept with the side knobs for locking it down and all .
Was this all your idea , or have you seen some of things implemented before?
 
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#23 ·
The table is flat enough for me. I couldn't see any light shining under the levels, which both were level in both directions.

This isn't my first time to use a scissor jack. Here is a link to a previous project.

About an hour after I posted the pics of the table with the Formica laminated on to the top, there was a knock at the door. :)

My buddy, the Brown truck driver had a package for me. A brand spanking new Triton router and Kreg plate. Whoopeee! Good times ahead for sure.

So, I spent the afternoon making a template. I put a 1/2 inch bit in a guide bushing and traced the outline of the router plate. Now I have a template to cut into the table using the same bit/bushing.

Note: I clamped the 1/4 inch mdf to my work table with a piece of foam insulation board under it. I attached the plate in position with double sided tape. That worked well.

I am now at the point of laying out the cut lines and doing the actual cutting for the plates.

Since I have never had my hands on a Triton router, I spent a couple of hours reading the manual and getting familiar with the controls. I almost got a black eye when I removed the plunge spring! :-(

I still haven't plugged it in and tested the motor.
Tomorrow should be a good day.

Mike
 

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#24 ·
Hmmm...now that I have had a few minutes to think about it, I think I screwed up making the router template. I should have used a flush trim bit and not a bushing.

Looks like I will start over and make a new template tomorrow and go from there. Whew! I almost messed up the table.
 
#25 · (Edited)
I believe your doing it right .
Now that you have gone around the perimeter of your plate , I thought that you have created a template in which you can clamp to your table and by using the same bushing on the inside of this new template it will give you the exact size for your plate?
If that makes any sense lol . So I think your doing it right and I'm not understanding the flush mount bit though ?

My only concern is when I do mine is to make sure that I am tight to the outside of the plate with the bushing or there's going to be a discrepancy in size of the newly made template.

I tell ya Mike , I wish we were neighbours . Dam I'd have a lot of fun learning from you ! :)
 
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#26 ·
I think the hole will be larger all the way around by the difference between the size of the bushing and the bit.

I redo the template tomorrow. The good thing is the part I cut out (when making the template) will make one of the filler plates I can drop in when building cabinets.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Ok well I didn't take into account the bit . Guess I read a previous post wrong in another thread as I was hoping I had this figured out :(. Gotta run that scenario threw my pea brain once more

Mike just checked out your other project thread using a jack . I'm not to swift so it took me a minute . First I thought it was a gear lol , then I had that eureka moment and realized it was a knob . Pretty cool idea :)

I think we can say that you are " a Jack of all Trades "
To bad your first name isn't Jack , as this would have made for a suitable screen name :)
 
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#29 ·
Yes once I understood what it's purpose was I determined that immediately . Thought it was pretty cool personally .


I'm heading to the garage with a pencil and my new Incra plate as I want to see if using the same guide would in fact work . I can't get it threw my head so I'll do a test drawing lol
 
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#30 ·
Ok I'm not seeing an issue .
Go around the perimeter of the router plate as you did creating a template that you follow again on the inside with the same size guide on the router should render the same size hole as your plate .
At least that's what I'm seeing , or am I still wrong?
Ok you wouldn't want to go all the way threw of course , just past the depth of the plate a bit so it has a ledge to sit on around the perimeter
 
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#31 ·
Look at picture #4. I think that is it. See that lip next to the plate. That is how much the template is too wide all around. That was my error. I should have used a flush trim bit. It would make th template 1/2 inch wider, then when I follow the template on the inside, it will cut the recess so it will be exactly the size of the router plate.

That is what I get for not going back and finding that post with the instructions someone posted. Ay least I caught it before ruining the table.
 
#32 · (Edited)
Ok maybe I am getting it now . I thought you used a straight bit Mike ? In which case there would be a lip cause the guide is keeping it out from the plate as you trace it . But when you use the same guide and straight bit on the inside of your newly made template it should be perfect ?
I really need a freaking plunge router right now and a guide and bit to see whats going on for myself .

I may give this whole wood hobby idea up and go back to classic cars lol. How I hate grease though :(
 
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